TN: 2017 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Savigny-lès-Beaune Vieilles Vignes

Last Saturday I first opened a 2012 Blanc de Blancs that tasted thin and flavorless. I then decided to give this one ago, only to get no better results. I shortly wondered whether the second round of Covid had arrived but smarter from experience I went ahead and smelled some spices and they seemed to register correctly so figured that maybe it’s just not a day for wine, let’s opt for IPA.

Yesterday I tried the Champagne again and it was showing very different and a lot better indeed, even if it was far from a great wine. The Burg was still undrinkable and I was skeptical of its chances to come through. As such I was very positively surprised today to find a more than passable wine. No oxidation at this point, just a youthful, structured wine that has finally opened up. Pretty surprising to be honest to find a ”low level” 2017 that is not ready for action from the get go. Also very nice to get this style when every vintage seemingly is warmer than the previous one (although I wonder how the more recent vintages are chez Maréchal).

  • 2017 Catherine et Claude Maréchal Savigny-lès-Beaune Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune (8.8.2022)
    Day 1: incredibly tart, thin and austere, all unripe lingonberry.

Day2: no notable development

Day 3: Yes! The nose is a savory mix of dark and red berries, a distinct minerally note and plenty of forest floor. It is earthy for sure but with no lack of bright fruit that has a tart edge but is by no means overwhelmingly tart. The palate has fleshed out nicely and the fruit has taken on a darker expression. The firm mouthfeel is just wonderful and the wine is blessed with terrific acidity. It has very good length and a grippy finish. There is nothing extra here, not in terms of ripeness nor fat. It is a wonderfully juicy and lively wine with a quality that could be described as rustic but I would rather say honest and transparent. Quite a turnaround, as I can honestly admit to totally enjoying this wine now a lot.

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