TNs: Burgundy villages theme

Had our own Burgundy villages theme but not quite the best of unlike Jason’s!

BURGUNDY VILLAGES - (5/8/2022)

Burgundy village theme that had more disappointing bottles than those that punched above their weight, perhaps the 2018s and 19s need more time to settle down.
Whites

  • 2013 Domaine Jacques Carillon Puligny-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
    Quite lean and tensile, lots of citrus fruit that I felt wasn’t as delineated as it would have been in a better vintage. Correctly identified as a Puligny at around 10 years, drinking well now. (90 pts.)
  • 2015 Buisson-Charles Meursault Vignes de 1945 - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
    Tropical and ripe fruits, had an off-putting apple cider, spritzy note. Guessed this as a 2016 Meursault. (88 pts.)
  • 2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Morey Chassagne-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet
    Brought this for a friend. Last vintage before Caroline took over I believe. Made in an old-school style with rounder fruit and lower acid that made people think this was from a warm vintage. Some pear and spice notes. Most managed to identify this as a Chassagne, definitely a relic which wasn’t to everyone’s taste. (89 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine François Mikulski Saint-Aubin Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin
    Served at the end, thought this was much older than it actually was. Some advanced notes of honey and caramel, more than a hint of sweetness on the finish. (89 pts.)

Reds

  • 2018 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
    The first of many deeply unimpressive 18/19s unfortunately. Candied and jammy red fruit, distracting cherry cola note, alcohol was very prominent on the finish. (87 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
    My extra bottle that turned out to be the one I liked the best. Very pretty and elegant nose, the high acid led most to guess a cooler vintage. Most also managed to guess that this was a Volnay. Very good and showed that Bouley has been setting very a high bar for a long time. Drink up before the acid subsumes the fruit. Perhaps the 18 will turn into something like this? (91 pts.)
  • 2013 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
    Showed similarities to the 2012 but with higher acid. I actually liked it a lot on pop and pour when it was more classic and palatable, but with air it became strangely more candied. Guessed 2012 NSG because of the earthiness and rusticity. (90 pts.)
  • 2012 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
    A more muscular and tannic wine than the 2013. Rich black, plummy fruit that seemed to have mellowed from its youth. Think I guessed NSG for this too. (90 pts.)
  • 2019 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    The most overtly jammy wine in the line-up, think everyone was shocked that this turned out to be a Hudelot-Noellat. Blue and purple candied fruit, so dense that some guessed Syrah. Was thinking of a producer that didn’t manage 2018 so well like Bertheau so was similarly surprised when this was revealed. (86 pts.)
  • 2018 Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Le Clos - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
    My contribution. Wasn’t as jammy as the other 18/19s but more than a hint of warmth in the fruit and an alcoholic note on the finish. Very blue-fruited, think I prefer his 2017/16s by a large margin. (89 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Dark fruit with some muddled earthiness that made others think Gevrey but the floral nose and elegance made me guess 14 Chambolle as it was clearly from a relatively cooler year. (88 pts.)
  • 2017 Bouchard Père et Fils Nuits St. Georges - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
    Pretty, spicy red fruit on the nose, palate was a little candied and anonymous. (88 pts.)
  • 2002 Domaine Laurent Roumier Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Probably the standout of the line-up because of the complexity that age brings. Quite old-school wine making, perhaps a little heavy-handed in its youth but age has seen the wine mellow. Guessed Gevrey 99 or 02. (91 pts.)
  • 2013 Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Alte Reben - Germany, Baden
    Inserted as a ringer, no one figured that it wasn’t a Burgundy. On a spectrum this was probably one of the most classic in the line-up, very pretty sweet red fruit and a silky and elegant palate. Much better than the Furst and less heavy-handed than the Molitor I tried a few months ago. (91 pts.)
  • 2016 Gerhard Markowitsch Pinot Noir Ried Scheibner - Austria, Niederösterreich, Carnuntum
    Small leftover sample. Quite earthy but with a candied nose so I thought old-world but not French, apparently most people at the dinner guessed German too. A little greenness that was distracting. (88 pts.)


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Interesting report. I feel like some top producers’ village offerings are generally overrated and clearly not worth the tariff. Always had a good experience with lafarge volnay each year.

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Yes I do like Lafarge as well especially the VS bottling, but they do need a lot of time as well from my experience. Would be interested to try the 18/19s though since have read they handled the warmer vintages well.

Lafarges do indeed need a LOT of time, as much I think as Barthod which gets called out a lot on this board for it’s glacial pace.

I recently had an ‘05 Barthod village Chambolle and it was stacked, packed and just starting to peel back its outer shell to reveal something special; very ‘05.