IMO, one of the hands-down most interesting tastings of 2022 was had already in January, when a wine geek friend of mine - who is married to a Japanese and thus frequents Japan quite a lot - conducted a tasting of Japanese wines!
From a strict quality perspective I wouldn’t say this was - or is going to be - the best tasting held in Finland in 2022, but seeing how rarely we get to taste Japanese wines here in Finland (especially so many at one go), this was definitely a tasting I did not want to miss. After all, this is only the third Japanese wine tasting in Finland I’ve ever heard of, and the second I’ve taken part of (the first one was a tasting I threw myself back in 2018).
Unlike in my tasting, where the emphasis was to show all kinds of different styles and varieties grown in Japan, the emphasis here was on Kōshū, arguably the most successful grape variety grown in Japan - and also the only one that can be described as a “truly Japanese variety”. It’s still quite unclear how and when this grape variety came to be, but it is suspected that it was either brought to Japan around 500 years ago, or it was born as a cross of two Vitis vinifera varieties grown in Japan around that time. As its genetic fingerprint doesn’t match any known varieties, its parentage remains unknown - most likely these are different grape varieties that made their way slowly east into China through the silk road over the last 1000 years, different varieties crossing with other varieties brought earlier or later, all which would go extinct at some point. This all feels like a link chain where you have the first few links in somewhere Europe or Middle East, and the last link in Japan, but all the links in-between have been erased by the centuries. I’ve even understood that Kōshū has a few non-vitifera sequences in its DNA, so most likely some of its grandparents must’ve crossed with a local non-vitifera grape vine, making Kōshū technically a hybrid variety.
The variety itself is both visually very beautiful, producing grapes that turn beautifully pink in color as they ripen, and very adapted to the warm, humid and often quite rainy climate of Japan. Although there have been some (quite successful) attempts to grow the variety in a “Western way”, ie. in rows using vertical shoot position, an overwhelming majority of Kōshū is grown in huge pergolas. And by huge I mean that one single vine can cover up to 1000 square feet (approx. 100 m2), because the variety is so ridiculously productive. The downside to this has been the neutrality of the variety - even though yields per hectare might be very reasonable in Japanese viticulture, the yields per one single plant don’t really make sense from a western farmer’s point of view! The old Kōshū vine trunks actually can be as thick as a grown man’s thigh and with their sprawling foliage they honestly look more like trees than grape vines - especially when the pergola is set up to the height of up to 3 m / 10 ft in the air! You actually need ladders to harvest the grapes from the tallest pergolas.
These tall pergolas are used to maximize the airflow; as the Japanese weather gets up ridiculously humid during the summer months, it’s imperative to keep the grapes as dry as possible so they don’t get attacked by molds or other diseases. Furthermore, what makes Japanese wine so expensive is how it is so work-intensive - many producers actually decorate every single grape bunch with a wax-paper “hat” to protect the grape from rains, which can get quite torrential at times.
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Here are the wines we tasted (apart from the Chateau Jun bottle I forgot to take a picture of):
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The first five bottles:
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2015 Katsunuma Jozo Koshu Aruga Branca Brilhante - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma (20.1.2022)
A sparkling wine made with Koshu grapes. 11% alcohol.
Pale, almost colorless whitish-green appearance. Light, rather neutral and slightly sweetish nose with aromas of custard, some leesy character, a little bit of fresh light peach, a herbal hint of bay leaf and a touch of red apple. The wine is light-bodied, quite dry and somewhat neutral on the palate with clean flavors of red apple, some leesy notes of creamy richness, a little bit of white peach, light candied notes of gummi bears, a hint of chalky minerality and a touch of fresh Asian pear. The mousse feels very soft, smooth and creamy and the moderately high acidity keeps the wine fresh and in balance. The finish is light and medium-long with clean and slightly neutral flavors of leesy creaminess, some sweet fruity notes of white peach and Asian pear, a little bit of chalky mineral bitterness and a candied hint of gummi bear.
A nice and pleasant little sparkling wine that suffers a bit from the quite neutral nature of Koshu: while balanced and refreshing, the wine is quite light in flavor and thus lacking a bit in character. There seems to be a bit of that leesy, creamy character they obtain from aging sur lie, but it’s still nothing similar to the toasty notes of brioche and nuts that one can find in great Champagnes, Cavas and other sparkling wines. This is a decent effort, but ultimately doesn’t really reach the level of quality of the still Koshu wines of Katsunuma Jozo. (87 pts.)
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2018 Cfa Backyard Winery Koshu Opening Act - Japan, Kantō, Tochigi (20.1.2022)
100% Koshu from Cfa Backyard Winery located in Ashikaga, Tochigi, i.e. some 30-50 km north from Tokyo. The “Cfa” refers to the Köppen climate classification in which this part of Japan belongs to. 12% alcohol.
Rather neutral pale greenish color. Clean, youthful and subtly smoky nose with aromas of white pepper, some Sauvignon Blanc-ish box tree character, a little bit of red apple, light zesty citrus fruit notes and a hint of passion fruit. The wine is ripe, clean and juicy on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of ripe red apple, some leesy notes, a little bit of fresh white fruit, light stony mineral notes, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of passion fruit. The moderately high acidity keeps the wine fresh and balanced. The finish is clean, fresh and quite long with flavors of crunchy apple, some tangy salinity, a little bit of leesy character and a faint hint of something bready - hard to assess whether it is autolysis or a subtle nuance of something oxidative.
A nice little everyday wine. Has a somewhat Sauvignon Blanc character to it - only without any herbaceous or vegetal nuances. Enjoyable and well-made, albeit a bit forgettable as well. Most likely best for immediate consumption - I really don’t see much or any potential for further development. Priced according to its quality at approx 2300¥ / 15€. (86 pts.)
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2018 Chateau Mars Koshu Orange-Gris - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi (20.1.2022)
A Koshu that straddles the line between a white wine and an orange wine. The pinkish skins of the “gris”-colored Koshu grapes are macerated for some time to lend the wine a bit of color, but still limiting the phenolic extraction. 12% alcohol.
Medium-deep and quite intense neon yellow-green color with a golden core. Savory, somewhat restrained and slightly phenolic nose with aromas of rosin, a little bit of pithy grapefruit, light floral notes and a hint of something waxy. The wine tastes dry yet juicy and suggestive of sweetness with its ripe undertones. There are flavors of ripe golden apples, some grapefruit, a little bit of something waxy, light notes of slivered almonds, a hint of Asian pear and a touch of rosin. The overall feel is medium-bodied with a nice, silky texture and good, bright and high acidity. The finish is clean and juicy with a somewhat neutral yet still quite long aftertaste of fresh and almost tart apples, some waxy tones, a little bit of pithy pomelo, light resinous nuances and a hint of almost Alpine minerality.
A nice, balanced and very harmonious wine that feels more like a white wine rather than an orange wine, yet shows some nice, waxy and phenolic qualities that obviously point out to the direction of skin contact. I think that without any skin contact this might’ve been a balanced but way too neutral and uninteresting, lacking in depth and character, but that skin contact has imbued the wine with enough flavor and character that it has actually turned out to be a very enjoyable and well-made white wine. It’s hard to say whether the wine will continue to improve anywhere from here, but I doubt it will fall apart anytime soon. Drink now or over the next handful of years. (90 pts.)
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2016 Château Mercian Koshu Gris de Gris - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Fuefuki (20.1.2022)
A 100% Koshu from the Fuefuki district in Yamanashi, made with some skin contact. 11% alcohol.
Light-to-medium-deep lemon-yellow color with a pale onion skin-colored core. The nose feels waxy and quite savory with aromas of peach, some resinous notes, a little bit of creamy richness, light smoky tones, perhaps a hint of wood and a touch of bruised apple. The wine is dry, textural and moderately full-bodied on the palate with flavors of something waxy, some creamy tones, light bitter notes of apple peel and phenolic spices, a little bit of almond-driven nuttiness, a hint of crunchy quince and a touch of stony minerality. The overall feel is firm and slightly angular with the high acidity and a gentle touch of light tannic grip. The finish is dry, savory and subtly grippy with long flavors of spicy red apple, some apple peel bitterness, light waxy tones, a little bit of savory wood spice, a hint of resinous character and a touch of slivered almond.
A nice, characterful and quite structured Koshu that has a little bit of skin contact influence, but still comes across more like a white wine than a full-blown orange wine. I think age might’ve added to the nuance and texture of the wine and since the wine doesn’t really seem to exhibit much if any aged character, I suspect it might actually continue to improve a bit more in a cellar - even if it is drinking pretty nicely already now. All in all, a very balanced and well-made effort from one of the biggest wineries in Yamanashi (and in Japan). (92 pts.)
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2018 Yamato Wine Co Koshu Huggy Wine Choujou - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma (20.1.2022)
100% Yamanashi Koshu aged in oak casks. According to the label, the winemaker is Yasuki Hagihara, a farmer and winemaker in 4th generation. 12% alcohol.
Pale lemon yellow color. Rich, sweetly-fruited nose with quite tropical aromas of mango, some ripe white peach, a little bit of green banana and a hint of avocado. The wine is ripe, juicy and richly-textured on the palate with a medium-to-moderately full body and supple yet slightly neutral flavors of white peach, some red apple, light leesy notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of creamy oak and a herbal touch of grassy greenness. Nice, bright acidity. The finish is ripe and juicy yet quite dry with long flavors of white peach, some tart green apple, light saline mineral notes, a little bit of creamy oak, a tart tropical hint of passion fruit and a touch of mango.
A fresh, harmonious and still very youthful Koshu that seems to have picked up some rich tropical fruit notes and subtle creaminess from the oak élevage without imbuing the wine with any overt oak aromatics. Although the wine retains some of that inherent neutral character typical of Koshu, it still manages to show a good combination of fruit and depth of flavor along with bright, high acidity and a nice undercurrent of saline minerality. Furthermore, this feels like a Koshu that could actually continue to improve for some years in a cellar. All in all, a very positive effort. Great value at 1795¥ / approx. 13-14€. (91 pts.)
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The next five bottles:
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2019 Soryu Winery Koshu Curious Type N - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma (20.1.2022)
100% Koshu from the Katsunuma subregion of Yamanashi, harvested in late October. Aged in stainless steel tanks on the lees. 12% alcohol, 1 g/l residual sugar, 6,8 g/l acidity.
Very pale, neutral whitish-green color. Somewhat reductive and even slightly skunky nose with aromas of zesty citrus fruit, some leesy character, light appley tones, a little bit of flinty reduction, a mineral hint of gun metal and a touch of sulfur smoke. The wine is dry, crisp and fresh on the palate with a linear and somewhat neutral taste of fresh red apple, some grapefruit, a little bit of leesy character, light steely mineral tones, a hint of pear and a faint autolytic touch of bready character. Nice high acidity. The finish is fresh, clean and somewhat neutral with a bright, moderately long and a bit linear aftertaste of pear, some sharp green apple tones, a little bit of leesy character, light crunchy apple tones and a hint of smoky reduction.
A nice, harmonious and refreshing Koshu with good sense of focus and brightness, thanks to the clean taste and high acidity. However, the wine seems to suffer a bit from reduction, muting the fruit flavors a bit and even lending a subtly skunky touch to the nose. Some aeration might help, but I have no idea how much air the wine needs, since it didn’t change much during the several hours the bottle was kept open. I guess the screwcap might be the culprit here, because apart from one other bottle, this was the only wine in our tasting not closed with a natural cork, and at the same time the only one showing obvious reduction. I hope the screwcap lets enough oxygen in the bottle so that the wine might lose its reductive nature with enough aging. At 34,86€, the wine feels quite overpriced for the quality. (88 pts.)
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2018 Ikeda Koshu Grande Cuvée Yamanashi - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi (20.1.2022)
The flagship white of Ikeda, made by selecting the best Koshu grapes grown in the larger Yamanashi region. Fermented and aged in new 280-liter oak barrels. 12,5% alcohol.
Completely colorless, fully neutral limpid whitish appearance. Very restrained and understated nose with subtle aromas of white peach, some Asian pear, a little bit of sappy herbal character and a faint hint of creamy oak. The wine is clean, ripe and quite neutral but also enjoyably fresh and firm on the palate with a medium body and somewhat linear flavors of pithy pomelo, some stony mineral notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light nutty nuances of wood and a hint of zesty lemon. The moderately high acidity lends the wine good sense of structure. The finish is fresh and clean with light, medium-long flavors of crisp white fruit, some fresh red apple tones, a little bit of lemony citrus fruit, light chalky mineral notes and a hint of creamy oak.
A very light, neutral and understated Koshu, feels much more restrained and underwhelming compared to the 2017 vintage, more similar to the very delicate entry-level Koshus of the winery. Fortunately the wine shows good sense of freshness and structure, otherwise it would feel just dilute. I have no idea if the wine is just in a slump or if the style is just this reticent. If it’s not the latter, this might get better with some cellaring. However, I wouldn’t hold my breath. (86 pts.)
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2017 Kurambon Koshu N - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma (20.1.2022)
The “N” in the name refers to the natural winemaking employed while making the wine. All the grapes are sourced from Toriihara, located in the Katsunuma sub-region within Yamanashi. Fermented spontaneously, aged in French oak casks, bottled unfiltered. 12% alcohol. Annual production 1000-1500 bottles.
Youthful and slightly hazy medium-deep yellow-green color. Ripe, fragrant and subtly wild nose with aromas of nectarine, some waxy funk, a little bit of savory spice, light nutty notes of slivered almond and a sweet hint of juicy cantaloupe. The wine is broad and even somewhat concentrated yet still very fresh and lively on the palate with a full body and quite intense flavors of apricots and sweet Golden Delicious apple, some gravelly mineral notes, a little bit of waxy funk, light steely mineral nuances, a hint of exotic spice and a floral touch of apple blossom. The high acidity lends great sense of intensity and structure to the wine. The finish is long, slightly concentrated and quite complex with intense flavors of ripe peach, waxy funk, some spicy red apple, a little bit of gravelly minerality, light smoky nuances of phenolic spice and a hint of nutty oak.
A very balanced, complex and surprisingly concentrated Koshu that is very true to the variety - not flashy, slightly restrained and even sort of neutral in character - yet at the same time showing remarkable depth, precision and complexity for this often very understated variety. What’s more important, even though the wine is fully natural, it doesn’t taste one bit natty - apart from its slightly waxy-funky overall character, the wine is wonderfully clean and conventional in every possible way. Delicious now, but I wouldn’t be surprised if this continued to improve for years more. A bit on the pricey side for a Koshu at 3005¥ / 23€, but easily delivers for the price. Highly recommended. (93 pts.)
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2016 Katsunuma Jozo Koshu Aruga Branca Pipa - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Katsunuma (20.1.2022)
This is the flagship wine of Katsunuma Jozo, along with the Issehara Terroir Koshu. Fermented and aged in used oak barrels for 6 months, after which it is bottled and aged for further two years before release. 11,5% alcohol.
Pale or medium-deep yellow-green color.Slightly restrained but also quite nuanced and fine-tuned nose with aromas of chopped herbs and savory spices, some leesy character, light creamy notes, a little bit of ripe white peach, a hint of chopped nuts and a sweeter touch of exotic fruits. Pretty lovely! The wine is rich, layered and wonderfully textural on the palate with a medium body and quite intense flavors of spicy red apple, some creaminess, light leesy notes, a little bit of stony minerality, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of nutty wood. The high acidity lends great intensity, structure and sense of precision to the wine. The long finish is fresh and lively with an intense aftertaste of sharp Granny Smith apple and incisive steely minerality, some ripe red apple tones, light sweet notes of tropical fruit, a little bit of nutty oak, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of apple peel bitterness.
This is consistently among the best Koshus I know. Not particularly a Burgundian wine, yet there is something that takes your mind there when tasting this wine amidst a bunch of other Koshus. The wine is not flashy or particularly “impressive” in its own right, yet it is impeccably balanced and harmonious with lots of depth and understated complexity. All in all, a wonderful, classically built Koshu that is drinking wonderfully now and will continue to improve for a good handful of years more. (94 pts.)
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2018 Suntory Tomi no oka Koshu - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi (20.1.2022)
12% alcohol.
Quite neutral, pale whitish-green color. Fresh, fine-tuned nose of ripe red apple and vague spicy notes, some fresh quince, a little bit of borderline unripe pear, light grassy green notes, a hint of leesy character, a floral touch of apple blossom and a whiff of ocean air. The wine is clean and slightly neutral on the palate with a rather light body and quite intense flavors of crunchy quince and tart green apple, some saline mineral notes, a little bit of grassy greenness, light leesy notes, a hint of stony minerality and a floral touch of apple blossom. Even though the wine has this kind of neutrality to it, it avoids being austere with its combination of nuances and intensity of those understated fruit flavors. The high acidity lends great sense of focus, structure and freshness to the wine. The finish is long, clean and crunchy with slightly neutral flavors of steely minerality, some tart green apple tones, a little bit of pithy bitterness and chalk dust, light leesy nuances and a hint of unripe pear.
This wine was not unlike a high-class Muscadet, showing this sort of understated fruit and bright minerality combined with high acidity and relatively light body. Although not a flashy or technically “impressive” wine, this was still a very good effort for what is a rather neutral style of Koshu, showing a bit more nuance, acidity and intensity than is expected of a simple entry-level Koshu. Although a bit predictable, this was still a very positive effort, especially for a wine coming from one of the biggest wineries in Japan. (91 pts.)
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The final four wines:
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2017 Grace Winery Koshu Cuvée Misawa Akeno - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Akeno (20.1.2022)
The flagship Koshu in the Grace Winery range, made with Koshu grapes harvested from the Misawa vineyard located in the village of Akeno within the greater region of Yamanashi. Unlike traditional Koshu vineyards, which are typically trellised in pergolas, the Misawa vineyard has been farmed using vertical shoot positioning since 2005, resulting in smaller fruit with higher sugar and malic acid content. Fermented spontaneously, aged in stainless steel tanks. A portion of wine underwent a natural MLF. 11,5% alcohol.
Very neutral and light pale green color. Rich, somewhat creamy and subtly funky nose with intense aromas of apple jam, some quince, a little bit of waxy funk, light creamy notes of leesy richness and/or MLF, a hint of beeswax, a touch of woolly lanolin and a whiff of stone dust. The wine is broad, somewhat concentrated yet still slightly neutral on the palate with a rather full body and balanced flavors of saline minerality and wet stones, lemony citrus fruits, some beeswax, a little bit of pithy pomelo, light woolly notes of lanolin and a hint of chalk dust. The overall feel is quite pronounced in minerality, but also a bit dull in character, thanks to the woolly tones and slightly understated fruit department. The moderately high acidity lends good sense of balance and structure to the wine. The finish is fresh, lively and crunchy with quite long flavors of pithy citrus fruits, some woolly lanolin, a little bit of tart green apple, light crunchy notes of quince, a hint of cantaloupe and a touch of stony minerality.
A stylish and quite noticeably mineral Koshu with good sense of balance and structure. However, even though the wine shows the textbook neutrality of Koshu, it lacks a bit in that crystalline purity typical of the variety, having so understated fruit flavors in relation to the slightly dull wet wool notes of lanolin that take a small toll on the freshness. You can taste the quality and sense of concentration here, but ultimately it falls a bit short in terms of flavor harmony - this was quite similar to the Grace Kayagatake Koshu, only with a bit more “wild” character and an added nuance of woolly character. All in all: good, but nothing spectacular. (87 pts.)
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2017 Kisvin Winery Koshu Reserve - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Kōshū (20.1.2022)
Unlike the regular Kisvin Koshu which is made from earlier-harvested grapes and aged in stainless steel, this is made with late-harvested grapes (typically early-to-mid October) and aged for 3 months in oak barrels. Bottled after one year of aging. 12,5% alcohol.
Quite pale and very slightly hazy yellow-green color. Rich, quite intense and surprisingly vegetal nose with a rather prominent streak of grassy greenness follower by aromas of birch leaves, some ripe Granny Smith apple, a little bit of cantaloupe, light floral notes of apple blossom and a hint of creaminess. The wine is fresh, lively and crunchy on the palate with a medium body and brisk, slightly vegetal flavors of birch leaves and grassy greenness, some sweeter candied notes of gummi bear, a little bit of fresh pear, light notes of quince jam, a hint of creamy oak and a touch of tangy saline minerality. The rather high acidity keeps the wine wonderfully fresh, precise and balanced. The finish is long and crisp but also a bit linear with dry yet juicy flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and ripe green apples, some grassy vegetal tones, a little bit of leesy character, light candied notes of gummi bear, a hint of quince jam and a touch of birch leaves.
This was a bit weird in a long lineup of Koshu wines - it lacked the rather neutral profile typical of the variety, but despite its obvious ripeness it also had a somewhat odd and very atypical green overall character, lending it notes of cut grass and birch leaves. This is definitely a nice and well-made wine, but you really have to make some effort to see past the initial greenness that might take you by surprise when approaching the wine for the first time. After my initial sip I was ready to rate the wine as a disappointment, but after getting to know it better, I found myself actually being intrigued by the wine - there’s definitely a lot more to it than the first impression lets you think. A nice and definitely atypical effort for a Koshu! (88 pts.)
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2017 Château Mercian Koshu Cuvée Kimihiko - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi, Ichikawamisato (20.1.2022)
This Cuvée Kimihiko is a special bottling of Château Mercian’s Koshu, as all the fruit is sourced from the vineyards located around the village of Ichikawamisato, in the southwestern end of the Yamanashi basin. 11,5% alcohol.
Youthful, very slightly hazy, pale grassy-green color. Rich, ripe and sweet-toned nose with quite complex aromas of fresh peach, waxy funk, some apple jam, a little bit of stewed herbs, light leesy notes, fruity hints of ripe quince and apricot purée and a touch of grassy herbal character. The wine is broad, somewhat concentrated and even slightly extracted, yet still wonderfully zippy, crisp and light-to-medium in body with intense flavors of tangy salinity, some sharp green apple tones, a little bit of waxy funk, light pastry notes of autolysis, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of chalky bitterness. The bright, high acidity lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is clean and crunchy with intense, dry flavors of chalky minerality, some tart green apple, a little bit of beeswax, light grassy green nuances, a hint of leesy autolysis and a sweeter touch of peach purée.
A surprisingly impressive and complex Koshu that is quite light and delicate, as is expected of the variety, yet showing great sense of focus, intensity and concentration for such a light white. This is not unlike a very high-quality Muscadet, but with a slightly different fruit profile that retains that subtly bitter undercurrent that seems to be one of the hallmarks of Koshu, complementing the sweeter fruit notes nicely. Although very drinkable already now, this will most likely to continue to improve for a handful of years more. Among the most intense and impressive wines we had in out 14-wine Koshu tasting. Terrific stuff! (93 pts.)
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2018 Chateau Jun Koshu - Japan, Chūbu, Yamanashi (20.1.2022)
Fermented in stainless steel tanks in cool temperatures. Aged on the lees in stainless steel. 12% alcohol.
Luminous pale yellow color. Characterful and perhaps a bit odd nose with aromas of almond-driven nuttiness and melon-driven fruit notes, some very Sake-like grainy notes, a little bit of leesy creaminess, light buttery notes and perhaps a slightest hint of oxidation. It feels as though the wine has seen a bit of oak, even though the specs say it doesn’t. The wine is lively, broad and leesy on the palate with a medium body and very pronounced acidity. There are characterful and slightly evolved flavors of Sake-like grainy character and melon-like fruit, some hay, light woolly notes, a little bit of stony minerality, an oxidative hint of nuttiness and a touch of pithy grapefruit bitterness. The racy acidity lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine. The finish is long, lively and crunchy with complex flavors of hay and woolly lanolin, some grainy notes of Sake, a little bit of lemony citrus fruit and tart Granny Smith apple, light nutty notes of almond, a hint of stony minerality and perhaps an autolytic touch of brioche.
This was a bit weird effort for a Koshu. In our 14-wine Koshu tasting, this stood apart from the other wines with its distinctively Sake-like nose - several people commented how the wine not only smelled like, but also, to a smaller extent, tasted like a dry Ginjo Sake - and also felt a bit more evolved than what one would expect from a Koshu only 3½ years old. The overall feel had a savory, subtly oxidative overall character that reminded us of a wine aged in oak, but Chateau Jun has another Koshu that is aged in oak, and - to our understanding - this entry-level Koshu doesn’t see any wood. All in all, this is a bit difficult wine to assess: I loved the brisk acidity and distinctive fruity-grainy Sake-like character here, but at the same time the wine felt a bit more tired and oxidative than what I’d like a wine only a few years old to be. Fun and interesting stuff, but with an odd twist, really. (89 pts.)
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And, finally, two (slightly disappointing) extras:
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1996 Ferrari-Carano Chardonnay Alexander Valley - USA, California, Sonoma County, Alexander Valley (20.1.2022)
13% alcohol. Tasted blind.
Pale bronze color. Very evolved and slightly oxidative nose with aromas of dried yellow fruits and Sultana raisins, some malty barley wine notes, a little bit of smoke, light nuances of meat stew, a hint of hay, a touch of browned butter and a whiff of sauerkraut. The wine is tertiary and moderately oxidative on the palate with flavors of roasted nuts and caramel, some burnt sugar, light malty notes, a little bit of creamy richness and browned butter, a hint of sultana raisins and a touch of stony minerality. The medium acidity feels a bit inadequate to lend the wine any good freshness, making the overall impression a bit soft. The finish is long,rich and complex with very evolved flavors of honeyed sweetness and sultana raisins, some notes of roasted nuts, a little bit of meaty umami, light creamy nuances, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of browned butter.
A very evolved Cali Chardonnay that feels somewhat past its peak. The wine is still fully drinkable, but especially the oxidative malty notes do take some toll on its drinkability. I guessed that the wine was mid-1990’s white Rhône with some oak influence, based on the modest acidity and notes of nuts, hay and creaminess. All in all, a good wine from the viewpoint of academic interest, but if one looks for something drinkable and enjoyable, this has already dropped out from that train. (84 pts.)
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NV Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Shaman 13 - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (20.1.2022)
From a 0,375-liter bottle. A blend of Pinot Noir (76%) and Chardonnay (24%). Disgorged in September 2016. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale golden yellow color. At first the nose feels clean with aromas of leesy yeast, some almond-driven nuttiness, a little bit of bruised apple, light chalky notes and a hint of woolly lanolin. As the wine opens up in glass, it starts to develop some more disagreeable notes of wet wool sock and rancid nuts. The wine feels dry, crisp and quite clean on the palate with flavors of sharp lemony citrus fruits, crunchy green apples, some almondy nuttiness, a little bit of chalky minerality and light woolly notes of lanolin. The overall feel is quite racy, thanks to the high acidity and ample, crisp mousse. However, the biggest surprise comes when you swallow the wine for the first time: even though the wine feels clean and fresh on the palate, it takes a sharp turn to the worse, when the aftertaste arrives. The finish is very dull, long and unpleasant with pronounced notes of wet wool socks, some rancid walnuts, a little bit of bready oxidation and light sweaty notes. There’s nothing crisp, fresh or fruity in the aftertaste and the wine leaves a horrible, musty taste in your mouth.
A don’t know what on earth is going on here! The nose and taste are perfectly clean and OK upon opening and the taste remains fine throughout, even though the nose starts to develop some unpleasant nuances after some aeration. However, even right after p’n’p, the aftertaste is plain horrible! And it’s not mousy, it’s more like oxidized and past its peak, even though the nose and taste are not! And the person who poured the wine said he had bought a case of these half bottles upon release and they have been like this from the beginning. A real mystery. I don’t know if the wine is better from bigger-format bottles, but I honestly can’t recommend this wine in halves - it’s simply undrinkable. We couldn’t even finish the half bottle with three people. NR (flawed)
Posted from CellarTracker