Wine impressions 7-25-22

Wine Impressions 7-25-22

2011 Cowan Cellars, Syrah Bennett Valley - no rush to open but certainly a complete wine now; everything in balance, some interesting dimensions, complexity and plenty of fruit. More savory than sweet. Perfect pizza with bacon wine.

2010 Jadot, Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee (magnum) - initial impression is that it’s darker than expected and a bit oxidative. However, with time open, the oxidative character dissipates, the flavors sharpen, the balance improves and, with food, it rises. Not my favorite white Burg but pretty good.

2005 Au Bon Climat, Pinot Noir Isabelle (magnum) - sound, resolved, good fruit but, ultimately, pedestrian. No flaws but no allure.

1995 Cos d’Estournel - pure, lifted, minty and precise. Not the depth of the Graves noted below, but very St. Estephe. A youthful wine, even at 27.

1995 Chat. Haut Brion - endless depth, terroir in full regalia, beautiful resolution, youthful but complex, and length measured in minutes. Seamless and perfect. (Had been decanted one hour.)
It has been a long time since I’ve had a Bordeaux of any age show like this.
A masterpiece.

2001 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt, Riesling Josephshofer Auslese - no petrol, moderate sweetness (more Spatlese RS), touch of shower curtain on the nose, but exquisite pit fruit aromas and flavors with slate accents. Quite rich but not cloying. While personally, I prefer more trocken examples of Riesling, this went well with poached peaches with crème fresh. Two decades has been good to it.

2020 Clos Cibonne, Rose Tradition - for a wine so pale in color, the aroma and flavors are quite intense and not especially sweet. Certainly, there is fruit but the driving force in the nose and palate are the dried herb, earthy elements, all rounded out by crisp fruit. A real pleasure.

2011 Cowan Cellars, Isa - 100% skin-fermented Sauvignon Blanc which has, a decade later, taken on a deep copper color and a mellow fruit/herb mix that sort of reminds me of hot toddies on a cold day. Plenty of acid keeps it lively yet the overall impression is volume in the mouth, almost all of which is savory. The development of this wine over time has been something to behold; from green and one note to smooth and complex. Nothing to suggest this won’t develop further but no reason not to open it now.

Best, Jim

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