TN: A Greek natural wine (and 16 aged lambics)

Last fall I arranged this lambic tasting for a small number of my friends who are more inclined to drink interesting beer than wine (even if they’ve been always happy to join any entry-level wine-drinking events I’ve had) - but just to keep the thread title thematically in line with the Wine Talk board, I thought it would be better to highlight that yes, we actually had a bottle of wine as well! So there’s no need to have this thread in the beer board (where nobody would ever see and read it)? [wink.gif]

Anyways, I’ve been collecting not only wine but also beer; after all, I originally got bit by the craft beer bug in the mid-00’s - the dreaded wine bug caught me a bit later! At first I was cellaring all kinds of beers - not only different sour ales, which are known to age well, but also imperial porters, Trappists, barley wines, etc. However, the more I’ve tasted them, the more I’ve come to realize that non-sour ales really don’t seem to benefit from aging. While some can be very good and definitely evolved from their younger counterparts, very rarely I’ve seen a beer change into something better with aging. On the contrary, while many aged brews have been good, I still think that most beers were simply better in their youth.

Apart from lambics. I’ve had tons of different kinds of lambics with age (up to 15-20 yo) and IMO virtually all the classic, dry lambics seem to get better with age. Some lambics can be a bit linear or hoppy in their youth, but with age they seem to become more nuanced, layered and textural - they really don’t seem to lose the acidic bite (and I would be very disappointed if they did!) but they might become otherwise softer or silkier as they get older. This is why I’ve been collecting some lambics over the years and at one point I realized I had at least one bottle from every major lambic brewer / blender, I decided that it was high time to taste them all at one go, just to highlight the differences of the producers.

To those who have completely missed out what is this lambic: it’s a traditional sour ale from Belgium protected by a regional appellation. In contrast to traditional lambics, any modern sour ales are made simply by souring the wort with the addition of lactic bacteria (or - heavens forbid - acidulating the beer with the addition of something acidic like lemon juice, which IMO doesn’t even result in a beer that could be called “sour ale”), whereas the traditional lambics are made by first boiling the wort, then letting it cool down in large, shallow vessels called koelschips, where the ambient yeasts and lactic acid bacteria can inoculate the wort once it has cooled down sufficiently. Once the wort has been cooled down to the ambient temperature, it is moved to age in oak barrels, in which the beer is spontaneously fermented, soured and aged for one to three years - or, in special cases, for even longer.

The most common styles of lambic are Gueuze (or Geuze) and fruited lambics. Gueuze is typically a blend of 1, 2 and 3 year old lambics - the 1 and 2-year old portions constitute the majority of the blend, while the 3-yo portion is typically much smaller. The 1-yo portion being less sour and not yet fully fermented, still containing some fermentable sugars and the 2-yo portion being bone-dry and more sour. The 3-yo portion typically brings more sourness and aged, tertiary complexity to the blend. Once this blend is bottled, the beer continues to ferment in the bottles on the sugars from the youngest blend, carbonating the beer.

The fruited beers come in two styles - the sweet modern versions and the dry “Oude” versions (Oude means “old” and always means that the beer is fermented to dryness). The sweet ones are just simple base lambic into which fruit juice or purée is added and the resulting sweet concoction is carbonated; these fruity beverages drink more like alcopop than beer. The dry ones are made with real fruit that is added to the oak barrels and left to macerate for some months, after which the beer is bottled and the sugar from the fruit and/or the wort carbonates the beer.

Traditional unblended lambic is quite rare nowadays. As it doesn’t have any fermentable sugars, it is completely flat. It’s an acquired taste, but often these beers show the most complexity of all lambics and definitely worth seeking out.

Lambic was traditionally brewed only by a small handful of brewers and most lambic brewers don’t actually brew their lambic themselves, but instead buy their base brews from different breweries, blending their beers according to their own recipes and aging their beers in their own cellars. That’s why many blenders might buy their base beers from exactly the same brewers, yet the resulting beers can be wildly different. These traditional blenders are called Geuzestekerij.

The few remaining lambic brewers whose beers are blended widely are De Cam, Boon, Cantillon, Girardin, Lindemans, Mort Subite and Timmermans. Furthermore, the widely acclaimed 3 Fonteinen started brewing their own lambic in the 1990’s and some other small breweries have also opened their business recently. However, their base brewes are mainly used for the brewery’s own beers and not sold for blending purposes.

Although I do enjoy the dry “Oude” fruited lambics, the bone-dry Oude Geuzes are The Thing for me, which is why I’ve been collecting them for the most part - and to have all the brews more or less on the same page, I decided that only Oude Geuzes would be tasted in this tasting.

Finally, after all these more or less sour, tangy and funky beers, we decided to finally have a Greek natural wine as a palate-cleanser (although I’m not so sure if it was a good idea…) [snort.gif]

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  • NV Brouwerij Girardin Gueuze Girardin (black label) - Belgium, Flanders, Sint-Ulriks-Kapelle (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is fermented spontaneously and then aged in old oak pipes. The Gueuze is blended from three batches, aged 12, 18 and 24 months. Unlike the White Label, the Black Label is bottled unfiltered and unpasteurized. No obvious bottling or best by -date visible, possibly best by 2017, as suggested by the cork. Purchased in December 2016. 5% alcohol.

Clear and rather pale straw yellow color with a modest white head. Somewhat mild yet moderately funky nose with classic Gueuze aromas of leather and latrine, some evolved Sultana raisin notes, a little bit of grainy malt and a hint of lemon. The beer is dry, quite tart and surprisingly bitter on the palate with a medium body and still remarkably ample and persistent carbonation. The flavors feel a bit light in intensity, yet show good focus. There are notes of lemony citrus fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of grainy malt, light bitter notes of pithy grapefruit and a hint of apple peel bitterness. Good, bright acidity with quite a bit of hop bitterness, which doesn’t feel that typical for a Gueuze. the finish is tart, crisp and rather bitter with a lengthy aftertaste of pithy grapefruit bitterness, some incisive metallic notes, a little bit of lemony citrus fruit, light evolved notes of dried yellow fruits and a hint of bretty leather.

A nice and perhaps a bit simple but also enjoyably crisp Gueuze that shows surprisingly pronounced hop bitterness for a lambic - a style not normally known for any hoppy notes. Although the beer is otherwise enjoyable and refreshing, the bitter notes clash with the rather high sourness, as low pH seems to both accentuate bitterness and lend a slightly metallic flavor to the alpha acids. This was good stuff and showed a little bit of evolution compared to the young bottling tasted back in 2015, but ultimately this didn’t leave a lasting impression in our extensive Gueuze extravaganza. Nevertheless, at 4,64€ for a 0,375 bottle, this was a great purchase. (89 pts.)

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  • NV Brouwerij Boon Oude Geuze à l’Ancienne (2012-2013) - Belgium, Flanders, Lembeek (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is fermented spontaneously and then aged in old oak foudres. The Gueuze is blended from three batches, the main batch (90%) coming from the brewing period mentioned in the label, it being late 2012 to spring 2013 here. The main batch is aged for 18 months in oak foudres, but a small addition (5%) of lambic aged for three years is blended in to add complexity and a small addition (5%) of young, still partially fermented lambic aged for up to 12 months is added for the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Best by February 2nd, 2035. 7% alcohol.

Slightly hazy golden yellow color. The beer starts to foam out of the bottle as soon as the cork is popped. Slightly evolved and perhaps subtly reduced nose with aromas of lemony citrus fruits, some smoky notes of burnt hair, a little bit of farmhouse funk and a hint of urine. The beer is dry, medium-bodied and slightly evolved on the palate with a balanced and somewhat predictable taste of wizened yellow apple, some grainy malt, light phenolic spicy notes, a little bit of earth and a hint of bretty funk. Medium sourness. Balanced, soft and quite persistent carbonation with almost nonexistent hop bitterness. The finish is dry, gently and mildly sour with medium-long flavors of grainy malt, some spicy phenolic notes, a little bit of leathery funk, light smoky notes of burnt hair and a hint of ammonia.

A nice, balanced and enjoyable, if perhaps a bit predictable and pedestrian Gueuze. Shows all the textbook elements of the genre, but ultimately relatively little of something particularly noteworthy. Has developed some evolved complexity over the years compared to the younger bottles I’ve tasted, but not enough to make the beer feel noticeably improved. An enjoyable allrounder that delivers what one could expect from a Gueuze, but nothing much beyond that. Priced according to its quality at 5,79€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (90 pts.)

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  • 2011 Brouwerij Timmermans Oude Gueuze - Belgium, Flanders, Itterbeek (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is fermented spontaneously and aged in old oak barriques. The Gueuze is blended from older and younger batches, the oldest batches being up to 3 years old. By blending some young, partially unfermented lambic, the beer continues to ferment in the bottle, resulting in the beer becoming naturally carbonated. After blending and bottling, the beer is left to age for 4 months for refermentation before release. Lot 14 10 11, brewed in 2011, bottled in 2014 and best before 2032. 5,5% alcohol.

The beer stands out from the crowd with its pale, luminous and quite intense neon-yellow color. Modest, creamy, gray-ish head. The nose shows remarkable complexity with aromatically open nuances of bretty leather, some farmhouse funk, a little bit of evolved caramel character, light oaky notes of vanilla and toasty wood, a sweet hint of baked apple and a touch of toffee oak. The beer is dry, firm and tangy on the palate with a medium body and moderate sourness. Intense flavors of lemony citrus fruits and sharp notes of Granny Smith apple, some bretty notes of leather and barnyard, light mushroomy notes of chanterelle, a little bit of caramel oak, a hint of savory wood spice and a touch of vanilla. The carbonation feels quite sparse and there is no perceptible hop bitterness. The finish is long, tangy and complex with a dry aftertaste of lemon juice, pronounced salinity, some oaky notes of vanilla and caramel, a little bit of sharp green apple, light mushroomy nuances of chanterelle and a hint of phenolic grip in the gums.

Once again, this Oude Gueuze managed to blow my socks off - even in a tasting of 16 different Gueuzes, this brew stood apart from the crowd, being easily among the top brews of the evening and probably the crowd favorite. Unlike other brews, this beer showed a little bit of oak influence, but not to the extent of it being obvious - and it really just added a little bit of vinous complexity to the aromatics without making the beer feel particularly oaky at any point. Furthermore, there was a distinctive streak of mushroomy character that reminded me a lot of chanterelles that have just been thrown in a frying pan and are starting to get warm, but not yet fried. Lots of stuff going on here. And seeing how relatively youthful the beer came across as, I have no doubts this will keep its promise and drink well at least until 2032. At just 5,50€ for a 0,375-liter bottle, this was a steal. (96 pts.)

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  • 2015 Brouwerij Lindemans Gueuze Cuvée René - Belgium, Flanders, Vlezenbeek (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is fermented spontaneously and then aged in old 10,000-liter oak foudres. The Gueuze a blend of lambic aged for three years to add complexity and young, still partially fermented lambic aged for up to 12 months for the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Bottled on 5th of August, 2015, best by 5th of August 2021. 7% alcohol.

Slightly hazy straw yellow color with a large, persistent white head. Dull, earthy nose with aromas of damp earthen cellar and water-damaged house, some lemony sharpness, a little bit of bruised apple and a hint of mildew. The beer is dull, dry and musty on the palate with light flavors of mildew, lemon-flavored water and a hint of earth. Ample carbonation with surprisingly pronounced hop bitterness along with moderate sourness. Short, dull and quite flavorless finish with moderately pronounced hop bitterness.

A corked bottle. Shucks. At least the cost (4,40€ for a 0,375-liter bottle) wasn’t bad. NR (flawed)

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  • 2014 Oud Beersel Oude Geuze Vieille - Belgium, Flanders, Beersel (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is brewed at Boon according to an old Oud Beersel recipe, using more fresh hops than most other lambic breweries. After brewing the beer, it is transported to Oud Beersel where it is moved into old foeders (ranging from 4000 to 12000 liters in size) for aging. The Geuze a blend of older and younger lambics, based mainly on the traditional Oud Beersel brew, but often including some portions from other breweries. Bottled on 13th of March 2014, best by 14th of March 2034. 6% alcohol.

Somewhat evolved, medium-deep amber color with a modest white head. Funky and quite pungent nose with aromas of leathery funk, urinal, some grainy malt, a little bit of bretty phenolic character, light sweeter notes of evolved caramel or dried-fruit character and a hint of something animale. The beer is dry and surprisingly balanced and smooth on the palate, sourness-wise, having both quite modest sourness and mild carbonation. There are flavors of lemon juice, some apple peel bitterness, a little bit of leathery funk, light sweeter and slightly evolved tones of ripe orange and a hint of pink grapefruit. Typical of Oud Beersel, the hop bitterness feels moderately high, lending a somewhat green astringency to the beer along with its sourness, albeit not coming across as too aggressive. The finish is dry, somewhat funky and quite long with a moderately bitter aftertaste of leathery funk, lemony citrus fruits, some green, herbal hop bitterness, a little bit of astringent apple peel, light grainy malt notes, a hint of pithy grapefruit and a touch of latrine.

A nice, smooth yet fresh Gueuze that has good, tart brightness, yet doesn’t come across as lean and sharp as some Gueuzes. The slightly more hop-driven Gueuze style of Oud Beersel hasn’t really disappeared anywhere over the years, but the brew still doesn’t come across as aggressively bitter as some hoppy sour ales - I find hop bitterness and pronounced sourness go rather badly hand-in-hand, as low pH accentuates the unpleasant, sharp bitterness in the alpha acids and lends a somewhat disagreeable, metallic taste to them. Here both the hop bitterness and acidity feel low enough so that they both can leave their imprint into the beer without neither of them overwhelming anything. Overall the beer has taken a somewhat pronounced turn to the more funky end of the spectrum, which I don’t mind. While I prefer less hoppy, more sour styles of Gueuze, this was an enjoyable effort and shows the beer is certainly evolving in the right direction. Will continue to improve. Priced according to its quality at 8,13€. (90 pts.)

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  • 2016 Moriau Oude Geuze - Belgium, Flanders, Sint-Pieters-Leeuw (20.11.2021)
    Moriau was originally a lambic blender, purchasing lambics and blending and bottling themselves, but stopping this activity in 1978. From 1978 to 1994 Moriau lambic was brewed by Brasserie De Neve (the same place where they brewed Dekoninck lambic). When De Neve was shut down in 1994, Moriau and Dekoninck asked Boon to brew their lambic according to the De Neve recipe. However, according to Frank Boon, the Moriau and Dekoninck should be the same stuff as Boon Gueuze, as they are made with the same beer and bottled at same ages. Normally this beer should be a blend of beer aged for 18 months in oak foudres with a small addition (5%) of lambic aged for three years is blended in to add complexity and a small addition (5%) of young, still partially fermented lambic aged for up to 12 months is added for the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Best by June 6th, 2035. 7% alcohol.

Moderately deep and somewhat dark golden yellow color with a bronze core and a moderately large white head. Slightly restrained and somewhat funky but also noticeably complex nose with aromas of grainy malt, some bretty leather, a little bit of lemon juice, light urinal tones, a hint of farmhouse funk and an evolved touch of bruised apple. The beer is mellow yet quite tangy on the palate with somewhat modest sourness along with a medium body and complex flavors of lemon juice, some slightly bitter winter apple tones, a little bit of grainy malt, light bretty notes of leathery funk, a hint of urinal and a touch of white pepper. The carbonation feels very gentle and easy. There’s also a little bit of hop bitterness that lends a light touch of pithy grapefuit character to the taste. The finish is long, quite smooth and rather complex with flavors of lemony sourness that seems to grow in intensity towards the end of the aftertaste, followed by notes of gentle grapefruity bitterness, a little bit of grainy malt, light tangy notes of winter apple, a hint of bretty barnyard and an evolved touch of bruised apple.

I find it hard to believe Moriau Oude Geuze would be identical to Boon’s Oude Geuze, because this is the second time I’ve had this beer next to Boon’s and they certainly don’t seem identical. This time this beer was tasted next to both Boon and Dekoninck Geuze and they all seemed unlike each other, even though they all come from the same brewery. They all were even purchased at the same time and had “best by” date either in 2035 or 2036, so there’s not even age difference that would explain the differences. Well, all the same, this time around Moriau seemed more impressive than the Boon Geuze - although not as stupendous as the Moriau 2014 I had some years ago, which probably is my favorite Gueuze to this day - showing maybe slightly less sourness than the other two, but also more depth and complexity along with some slightly evolved characteristics. A superb lambic by all accounts, drinking wonderfully now and showing great potential for future development. A steal at only 3,45€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (93 pts.)

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  • 2016 Brouwerij Boon Oude Geuze à l’Ancienne Dekoninck - Belgium, Flanders, Lembeek (20.11.2021)
    Dekoninck was originally a lambic blender, purchasing lambics and blending and bottling themselves, but stopping this activity in 1977. From 1977 to 1994 Dekoninck lambic was brewed by Brasserie De Neve (the same place where they brewed Moriau lambic). When De Neve was shut down in 1994, Moriau and Dekoninck asked Boon to brew their lambic according to the De Neve recipe. However, according to Frank Boon, the Moriau and Dekoninck should be the same stuff as Boon Gueuze, as they are made with the same beer and bottled at same ages. Normally this beer should be a blend of beer aged for 18 months in oak foudres with a small addition (5%) of lambic aged for three years is blended in to add complexity and a small addition (5%) of young, still partially fermented lambic aged for up to 12 months is added for the secondary fermentation in the bottle. Lot 60361, best by February 5th, 2036. 7% alcohol.

Pale-to-medium-deep and very slightly hazy bronze color with a moderately large white head. Somewhat sharp yet at the same time relatively fruity nose with aromas of juicy golden apple and white peach, some bretty notes of leathery funk, light grainy malt notes, a little bit of old hay, a hint of lemony sourness and a hoppy touch of dried herbs. The beer is dry, rather sour and crisp with a medium body and rather intense flavors of leathery funk, some pithy lemony character, a little bit of sweeter, fruit-forward character of ripe white peach or juicy apple, light spicy notes of phenolic character, a hint of something metallic and a touch of tangy salinity. The carbonation feels rather crisp and there’s also a little bit of hoppy bitterness that lends a slightly metallic edge to the apple peel-ish bitterness. The finish is crisp, tart and lemony with quite lengthy flavors of Granny Smith apple, some phenolic spice, a little bit of tangy salinity, light funky notes of bretty leather, a hint of sweeter white fruits and a touch of something metallic.

A very nice, balanced and distinctive Gueuze that manages to combine quite pronounced acidity, modest funk, a little bit of fruity sweetness and a subtle touch of hoppy bitterness. I find it hard to believe that Boon Oude Geuze, Moriau Oude Geuze and this would be same beers; tasting side-by-side these three beers, this brew and Moriau seemed quite similar, whereas Boon Oude Geuze seemed more different in style. However, even Moriau and Dekoninck had some obvious differences. Although they were both darker in color than the pale Boon, Moriau seemed drier with a smoother overall character, whereas Dekoninck seemed subtly sweeter with more pronounced acidity. I found Moriau and Dekoninck to be more or less at the same quality level, but in the past I’ve had Dekoninck bottles that were a bit better - otherwise more or less the same, but without that slightly distracting metallic taste, which took a small toll on the final score. Nevertheless, this is a fine, complex Gueuze that will not only keep but improve for many, many years more. A great purchase at 4,50€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (93 pts.)

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  • NV Brouwerij De Troch Cuvée Chapeau Oude Gueuze-Lambic - Belgium, Flanders, wambeek (20.11.2021)
    This “Cuvée Chapeau Oude Gueuze-Lambic” differs from De Troch “Chapeau Gueuze” only in that the former is completely dry (aka. Oude Gueuze) whereas the latter is sweetened with white sugar. The base beer is brewed using hop pellets instead of aged hop cones and fermenting it spontaneously. After the fermentation the beer is moved into old barrels (ranging from 225 to 650 liters in size) for aging. The Geuze a blend of older and younger lambics and it is flash pasteurized before release. Best by 2020. 5,5% alcohol.

The appearance is slightly hazy and conspicuously youthful and pale, almost neon yellow-green in hue. The nose feels somewhat odd, slightly green and subtly musty with aromas of lemony sharpness, some rhubarb stalk, a little bit of damp earth, light green apple tones, a hint of leesy yeast and a touch of grainy malt. The subtle mustiness seems to slowly increase with air. The beer is dry, noticeably sour and rather austere on the palate with rather pronounced hop bitterness along with flavors of tart lemony citrus fruits and sharp green apple tones, some dull earthy notes, a little bit of dusty old cellar, light saline mineral notes, a hint of apple peel bitterness and a touch of tangy rhubarb stalk. Both the sourness and the hop bitterness feel quite high and in start contrast with the slightly understated flavors. The finish is long, sour and quite bitter with somewhat dull flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some tangy winter apple notes, a little bit of dusty earth, light saline nuances and a hint of pithy grapefruit bitterness.

It’s hard to assess whether this beer suffered a mild case of cork or if it was just otherwise dull, unpleasant and earthy. If it was corked, then it would be two out two De Troch Cuvée Chapeaus I’ve tasted that have been corked. If it wasn’t, it’s disappointing to know that the beer isn’t particularly memorable even when it is in ok condition. The overall feel here is somewhat dull, slightly unclean and the pronounced hop bitterness doesn’t really go that well together with the high acidity. I refrain from both scoring the beer and marking it defective, since we couldn’t come to a conclusion whether the beer was faulty or not, but it didn’t leave a lasting impression on people. At 3,70€ for a 0,375 bottle, I wouldn’t say the beer was worth the price.

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  • 2015 Gueuzerie Tilquin Oude Gueuze À l’Ancienne - Belgium, Wallonie, Rebecq (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is sourced from Boon, Cantillon, Girardin and Lindemans, aged in old oak barrels on the premises. Tilquin is the only lambic blender using wort from Cantillon in their blends. The Gueuze is blended from lambics that are aged for one year (50%), two years (30%) and three years (20%). Bottled unfiltered and unpasteurized on 4th of March 2015, best by 4th of March 2025. Neck label says 2014-2015. 6,4% alcohol.

Completely clear, luminous and quite pale amber color. Somewhat evolved and very seductive nose with aromas of bruised apple, some malty caramel tones, a little bit of honeyed sweetness, light funky notes of leather saddle, a hint of ripe peachy fruit and a sharp touch of lactic acid. The beer is dry, sharp and somewhat austere on the palate with a medium body, sharp acidity and quite crisp, persistent carbonation. There are somewhat complex yet rather lean flavors of tangy green apple and tart lemony citrus fruit, some leathery funk, light grainy notes of malt, a little bit of dry, woody caramel character, a hint of urinal and a touch of phenolic spice. The hop bitterness feels low, yet very sharp and pithy, thanks to the high acidity that accentuates the bitterness without making it seem overtly aggressive or metallic in taste. The finish is tart, crisp and tangy with rather pronounced pithy grapefruit bitterness and lengthy flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some sharp green apple notes, a little bit of tangy salinity, light funky notes of bretty leather, a hint of grainy malt and a touch of caramel or burnt sugar.

A very distinctive and fine-tuned Gueuze that quite unlike any other we had. The beer is very sophisticated and somewhat low-key - even austere - in its expression, yet shows tons of layers and nuance both in the nose and on the palate. There’s somewhat pronounced hoppy bitterness (perhaps courtesy of Girardin?), but unlike most other Gueuzes that have emphasis on hoppy bitterness, it never gets excessive here, but remains well-balanced throughout. Due to its dry, lean and slightly austere style, this is definitely not the most approachable effort, but nevertheless a very lovely brew indeed with a great amount of depth and finesse. Not my favorite Gueuze, but an eminently enjoyable and rewarding lambic all the same. An excellent purchase at 5,89€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (92 pts.)

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  • 2015 Cantillon Brewery Gueuze - Belgium, Brussels (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is brewed at Cantillon using 100% organically farmed barley and wheat, hence the beer is labeled “Gueuze 100% Lambic Bio, Saison 15/16”. The beer is aged in old oak pipes, barriques and pièces sourced from France, Italy and Spain. The Geuze a blend of older and younger lambics. If the youngest batch has fermented to full dryness prior to the blending, an addition of 2-3 g/l of sugar is added to the blended beer. Bottled on 1st of September 2015, best by 1st of September 2035. 5% alcohol.

Pale and slightly hazy yellow-amber color. Complex, characterful and subtly sweet-toned nose with layered aromas of ripe apricots, some peppery spice, light evolved notes of dried fruits and sweet caramel, a little bit of smoky phenolic character, a bretty hint of animale and a faint - probably reductive - touch of rubber. The beer feels quite sour, somewhat concentrated and medium-bodied on the palate. Bold flavors of grainy malt, apricot, some pithy lemon, a little bit of leathery funk, light evolved notes of sweet dried fruits, a hint of barnyardy funk and a subtly acetic touch of balsamico. The carbonation feels very soft and mellow. The sourness subsides in the aftertaste a little, so the finish is relatively mellow and modest in acidity, but at the same time remarkably long and complex with flavors of tart pomelo or grapefruit, some evolved dried-fruit sweetness, a little bit of tangy salinity, light bretty notes of leathery funk, an acetic hint of balsamico and a touch of grainy malt.

An exceptional, complex and beautifully evolved Gueuze that doesn’t feel like a freshly bottled brew anymore, yet doesn’t come across as particularly old either. The beer starts off as quite tart and tangy, but seems to mellow down towards the finish, letting the complex, matured tones take the lead and making every sip evolve differently, in turn making the beer an adventure in itself. I had quite high expectations for Cantillon and it didn’t fail - this was my 2nd favorite of the evening and probably the overall crowd favorite among the attendees. Outrageous value at 7,30€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (97 pts.)

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  • 2016 Brouwerij 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze - Belgium, Flanders, Beersel (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is partly brewed at 3 Fonteinen and partly sourced from Boon and Lindemans, aged in old oak barrels on the premises. The Gueuze is blended from lambics that are aged for one, two and three years (20%). Bottled unfiltered and unpasteurized on 8th of February 2016, best by 26th of October 2036. 6% alcohol.

Fully clear golden yellow color with a rather large white head. Very classic, funky and even slightly robust nose with aromas of bretty leather and farmhouse funk, some lemony notes, light sweeter nuances of ripe yellow fruits, a little bit of phenolic spice, a pungent hint of urinal and a whiff of something odd, vaguely gaseous. The beer feels dry, tart and quite light-bodied with quite pronounced, crisp carbonation and rather intense yet also slightly austere flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some farmhouse funk, a little bit of ammonia, light tangy notes of winter apple, a hint of pithy grapefruit bitterness and a touch of grainy malt. The hop bitterness comes across as somewhat pronounced, albeit not dominant or aggressive. The finish is long and quite mouth-puckering with sour flavors of lemony citrus fruit and tart winter apple, some pithy grapefruit bitterness, a little bit of ammonia, light saline nuances, a hint of phenolic spice and a bretty touch of leather.

A very sophisticated, crisp and rather lean Gueuze that feels relatively similar to the Tilquin Oude Gueuze, which is also rather light, somewhat bitter and leaning more on the austere side. I was surprised to see that the beer had not developed much additional depth or complexity with age, coming across just very incisive and mouth-puckering. This is delicious stuff for hardcore acid-heads and I love this beer when drunk by itself, but sandwiched between Hanssens Artisanaal and Cantillon, this beer comes slightly leaner and a bit foursquare in comparison. Furthermore, that slightly gaseous nuance never really disappeared, lending a bit odd touch to the otherwise very textbook Gueuze nose. Nevertheless, a great, classic lambic and solid value at 6,50€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (93 pts.)

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  • 2014 Hanssens Artisanaal Oude Gueuze - Belgium, Flanders, Dworp (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is sourced from Boon, Girardin, Lindemans and Timmermans, aged in old oak barrels on the premises. Bottled unfiltered and unpasteurized on 7th of August 2014, best by 7th of August 2034. 6% alcohol.

Moderately hazy and relatively deep orange color with a mahogany core. The nose feels very rich, expressive and even moderately sweet-toned with complex aromas of ripe apricots, new leather, some oaky notes of vanilla, a little bit of juicy orange-driven citrus fruit, light grainy notes of Corn Flakes, a hint of perfumed floral character and a touch of earth. The beer is broad, moderately full-bodied and subtly sweet-toned on the palate with complex flavors of leathery funk, ripe orange, some leathery funk, light bitter nuances of pithy citrus fruits, a little bit of tangy salinity, a hint of grainy malt and a faint vinegary touch of acetic acid. Overall the hop bitterness feels very modest and understated here and even though the beer feels moderately sour, the acidity comes across as relatively light and easy compared to its peers. The finish is very long, complex and slightly more tart compared to the midpalate with layered flavors of lemony citrus fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of sharp green apple, light nuances of vanilla, a hint of tangy salinity and a faint vinegary touch of acetic acid.

A beautiful, remarkably complex and even slightly vinous Gueuze that might come across as ever-so-slightly less sour and subtly more sweet than most of its Gueuze peers, but at the same time its complexity is on another level. Hanssens Artisanaal makes Gueuzes that consistently over-perform for their price, always showing remarkable depth of flavor and balance without any elements that might feel unwanted. There’s a slightest streak of acetic acid, but even that nuance only manages to work well together with the overall taste, never coming across as distracting one little bit. Excellent stuff now, but has still potential for further development. Without a failure, this is one of my favorite Gueuzes. A steal at 4,19 for a 0,375-liter bottle. (96 pts.)

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  • 2010 Brouwerij Boon Geuze Mariage Parfait - Belgium, Flanders, Lembeek (20.11.2021)
    A blend of vintage-dated lambic brewed in 2010 (95%) that is slightly stronger than a typical lambic (8% ABV) and young, still fermenting lambic (5%) that gives the beer its carbonation. The base beer is fermented spontaneously and then aged in old oak foudres for three years. Bottled on 12th of September 2013, best by 12th of September 2033. 8% alcohol.

Luminous, fully clear and quite pale amber color. Pungent, somewhat restrained and quite funky nose with aromas of ammonia, grainy malt, some lemony citrus fruit, a little bit of phenolic spice, light crunchy notes of ripe green apple, a hint of evolved caramel character and a developed touch of dried fruits and bruised apple. The beer feels dry, tart and medium-bodied on the palate with a quite crisp carbonation and slightly restrained flavors of bretty leather and farmhouse funk, some tobacco, a little bit of sweet grainy malt, light fruity notes of ripe yet tangy winter apple, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of stable floor. Moderately high sourness and no perceptible hop bitterness. The finish is juicy, long and wonderfully complex with rather pronounced sourness and somewhat funky flavors of old leather, some ripe winter apple, a little bit of oxidative caramel character, light evolved notes of dried fruits and honey, a hint of grainy malt and a touch of barnyard.

A beautiful, complex and wonderfully balanced Gueuze that is on a completely different level compared to the regular Boon Oude Geuze. This beer shows noticeably more complexity with slightly silkier acidity, whereas the normal Oude Geuze feels leaner with more emphasis on hop bitterness. Although this beer is almost completely identical to Boon Vat 79 (composed of 85% lambic aged for three years in a single foudre and 15% new lambic), this beer didn’t show as much depth and concentration as the Vat 79 bottling - which makes sense to bottle that specific vat separately from the main Mariage Parfait blend. Nevertheless, this is a fantastic lambic by any standards and although it might feel slightly underwhelming in intensity compared to the likes of Cantillon and Hanssens Artisanaal, this is easily at the same level in quality. Consistently one of my favorite Gueuzes and simply ridiculous value at 3,49€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (95 pts.)

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  • 2011 Brouwerij Boon Vat 79 Oude Geuze Mono Blend - Belgium, Flanders, Lembeek (20.11.2021)
    A special “mono blend” that is composed of lambic aged for 3 years 2 months (85%) and young, still partially unfermented lambic for the carbonation (15%). The old lambic comes entirely from Vat 79, a large foeder built in 1883, the oldest in Boon’s brewery and normally used for Mariage Parfait. The base beer was brewed on 19-20th of October 2011 and bottled on 17th of December 2014, making this the second batch of 2011 Vat 79 (the first batch was bottled in October 2014). Best by 17th of December 2034. 9% alcohol.

Slightly hazy and surprisingly pale straw yellow color with a colorless rim and a modest white head. Exceptionally complex, moderately aged and slightly sweet-toned nose with seductive aromas of leather saddle, funky animale character, some latrine, a little bit of grainy malt, light earthy notes, a hint of honeyed richness and a touch of bruised apple. The beer is broad, evolved and wonderfully textural on the palate with a full body and quite concentrated, complex flavors of leather saddle, some dried fruits, light creamy notes of panna cotta, a little bit of sweet honeyed malt character, a hint of oat biscuit and a touch of farmhouse funk. The rather high acidity feels wonderfully balanced with the full body. The carbonation feels very modest and gentle and there is no hop bitterness to speak of. The finish is quite sour yet enjoyably gentle and mellow with very long and complex aftertaste of leather saddle and barnyardy funk, some evolved creamy tones, a little bit of oat biscuit, light earthy notes, a hint of dried yellow fruits and a touch of honeyed richness.

Hoo boy what a beer! This is hands down one of the most complex and rewarding lambics I’ve ever tasted, really fantastic stuff. Normally lambics that are aged for 3 years in oak are bottled as still (= flat) lambics, whereas this drinks more like a Gueuze, yet not losing one little bit its remarkable depth and complexity. An extraordinary beer already now, but shows capacity to improve even further from here with some additional aging. Terrific value at 12,98€ for a 0,375-liter beer. (98 pts.)

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  • 2011 Brouwerij Boon Vat 77 Oude Geuze Mono Blend - Belgium, Flanders, Lembeek (20.11.2021)
    A special “mono blend” that is composed of lambic aged for 1 year 11 months (90%) and young, still partially unfermented lambic for the carbonation (10%). The old lambic comes entirely from Vat 77, a large foeder built in 1906 and in use since 1907 - used for keeping 3-yo lambic since 1986. The base beer was brewed on 26th of November, 2011 and bottled on 24th of October, 2013. Best by 24th of October, 2033. 8,5% alcohol.

Deep, luminous and completely clear amber color. Quite evolved, complex and moderately funky nose with aromas of bruised apple, rowanberries, some leathery funk, a little bit of latrine, light sweeter honeyed tones, a hint of sharp lemony character and a touch of vague greenness. The beer is moderately evolved, complex and quite substantial on the palate with a rather full body, surprisingly ample and creamy carbonation and layered flavors of bretty leather and sweeter exotic spices, some pithy grapefruit bitterness, a little bit of peppery phenolic spice, light evolved notes of wizened yellow fruits, rustic hints of stable floor and old leather saddle and a touch of grassy greenness. There’s a little bit of hoppy bitterness here, but fortunately it doesn’t clash with the rather high sourness of the beer. The finish is very long, quite sour and wonderfully complex with layered flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some leathery funk, a little bit of sweet peachy fruit, light phenolic notes of white pepper and clove, a hint of something toasty and a rustic touch of stable floor.

I was a little worried whether a half bottle of beer brewed ten years ago would still be OK. However, only a little, as I know that Gueuzes can age like crazy. And fortunately my fears were unfounded: this was an outstanding, exceptionally complex Gueuze that felt more like a carbonated lambic than a traditional Gueuze with its nuanced, layered flavors. Even though this beer was one of the most impressive brews we had during the course of the tasting, it still wasn’t my favorite brew - we had both this and Vat 79, and in my books Vat 79 was slightly yet perceptibly better when tasted side-by-side. However, this opinion wasn’t unanimous, as some people seemed to favor Vat 77, others Vat 79. Nevertheless, these two were easily some of the best lambics we had that evening - and also some of the best beers I’ve ever had. This is just excellent stuff and a steal at 6,69€ for a 0,375-liter bottle. (96 pts.)

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  • 2016 De Cam Oude Geuze - Belgium, Flanders, Gooik (20.11.2021)
    The base beer is sourced from Boon, Girardin and Lindemans, aged in old 1000-liter oak barrels previously used for aging Pilsner Urquell. Bottled unfiltered and unpasteurized. Lot number L3-2016. 6% alcohol.

Somewhat hazy straw-yellow color with an orange core and a very large white head. The nose feels sharp, funky and quite straightforward with somewhat pungent and quite intense aromas of urinal and bretty leather, some grainy malt, a little bit of beeswax, light floral notes, a hint of lemon juice and a hoppy touch of dried herbs. The beer is dry, somewhat sour and a bit mellow on the palate with a medium body, ample yet soft carbonation and textbook Gueuze flavors of lemony citrus fruit and spicy apple, some phenolic spice, a little bit of grainy malt, light peppery notes, a subtle, hoppy hint of herbal bitterness and a leathery touch of brett. The finish is dry yet gentle with a faint touch of herbal bitterness along with a tangy and quite clean aftertaste of lemony citrus fruits, a little bit of ripe orange or pink grapefruit, light grainy malt tones, a hint of spicy red apple and a touch of tangy salinity.

A nice, balanced and relatively clean Gueuze that shows a nice combination of tangy, lemony sharpness and quite subtle funky notes along with a pleasantly silky overall feel. The beer is not that much about depth and complexity, it’s just all about being a harmonious and very drinkable textbook Gueuze. Nice stuff, although maybe slightly on the pricey side at 16,99€ for a 0,75-liter bottle. (91 pts.)

And finally, one extra bottle of Greek naturalist stuff, just for the heck of it.

  • 2017 Ktima Ligas Moschomavro - Greece, Macedonia (20.11.2021)
    A naturalist Moschomavro, macerated with the skins for 4 weeks and then aged for 5 months in old, neutral oak barrels. Bottled unfined and unfiltered. Bottle no. 1643 of total 3000 bottles. 13% alcohol.

Pale, translucent cranberry juice color with a slightly evolved pomegranate hue. Quite sauvage and lifted nose with aromas of slightly animalistic funk, some ripe strawberry, light volatile notes of nail polish, a little bit of acetic vinegary character with a subtly balsamic edge, light cherry nuances and a touch of beetroot juice. The wine is lively, quite crunchy and slightly cleaner on the palate than what the nose suggest. Flavors of ripe cherries and tart cranberries, some volatile notes of nail polish, a little bit of wild strawberry, light vinegary nuances of balsamico and a hint of stony minerality. The wine is medium in body with high acidity and very light and gentle tannins. The finish is wild, slightly acetic and ever-so-slightly grippy with with crunchy flavors of wild strawberries and tart cranberries, some sweeter notes of ripe cherries, a little bit of cooked rose hips, light volatile nail polish tones, a hint of beet root and a touch of acetic roughness in the throat.

A fresh and crunchy but also very sauvage and funky naturalist from Greece. I’m not entirely sure if I really can pick much varietal characteristics of Moschomavro here, since the wine is so volatile and acetic that a good deal of the varietal aromas get overwhelmed. Drinks more like a generic Jura red or Cru Beaujolais than anything I’d associate with Greece. Would be more enjoyable with less pronounced acetic character, as now the wine feels more like a rather anonymous natty wine. Comes across as a bit expensive for the quality at 21€. (84 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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Otto Forsberg I’ve only recently tried a few Gueuzes. I’ve always been an IPA fan which some people call the anti-beer. What can I say, I’m a bitterness nut! I tried the following recently:
3 Fonteinen Oude Kriek
3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze
3 Fonteinen Cuvée Armand & Gaston Oude Geuze
Mikkeller Oude Geuze Goût Américain

Would you say they are representative of the style?

I agree that the 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze was rather lean and acidic and I found it rather uninspiring…

Well, 3 Fonteinen is considered to be one of the best makers of lambic out there - although I consider Cantillon to be superior as a brewer and Hanssens as a blender - and those bottles you had are very much representative of the style. However, the style ranges from Hanssens Artisanaal’s rich, complex and relatively mellow to the rather sharp and lean style represented by 3 Fonteinen and Tilquin.

Cuvée Armand & Gaston is something of a rarity - it’s composed only of beers brewed at 3 Fonteinen, ie. unlike the other Geuzes they make, this one doesn’t contain brews by any other brewery. Haven’t had one myself, yet.

On that Mikkeller - Boon collaboration brew, I have no idea how representative of traditional lambics it is. At least the “Goût Américain” suggests its taste isn’t particularly traditional! From what I understood, it is made like a traditional gueuze, and supposedly from traditionally made lambics, but it is noticeably more volatile than a classic gueuze is.

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Thanks! I’ve kept a few in my cellar overseas. I’ll revisit them in a couple of years and see if they or my taste have changed.

Well, the oldest lambic I’ve tasted was 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze 1999 in 2015 and it was darn spectacular - so yes, they change. However, if these brews are not up your alley, there’s very little the beers can do about that. :smiley:

Anyways, here’s my note on that 1999 for anyone interested:

  • 1999 Brouwerij 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze - Belgium, Flanders, Beersel (20.8.2015)
    Not the first vintage of 3 Fonteinen Oude Geuze, but the first one incorporating lambic brewed by the brewery - instead of just blending purchased beer.

Dark, noticeably developed deep orange color with a big but very short-lived white head. Very aged and somewhat oxidative nose with funky, complex aromas of bruised apples, leather, stable floor, some grassy greenness, a little bit of oxidative nuttiness, light iron notes, a hint of bretty Band-Aid and a touch of wet dog. The beer is crisp, refreshing and quite light-bodied on the palate with very complex flavors of leather, tart lemony citrus fruits, some earthy funk, a little bit of bruised apple, light leather tones and a hint of smoky phenolic spice. The carbonation feels rather soft and smooth. The finish is very crisp and intense with long, noticeably tart and very complex flavors of sugared lemon wedges, leather, some pithy grapefruit bitterness, a little bit of earthy funk, tangy notes of green apple slices, a hint of barnyard and a touch of bruised apple.

Holy smokes. This is the oldest lambic (and probably the oldest beer) I’ve tasted to this date and at 16 years of age the beer is still remarkably youthful and incredibly complex. Sure, it shows some aged characteristics, but it is yet to show any signs of giving up or going downhill. A true testament to the aging capability of sour ales. Pricey at 40€ for a 0,75 bottle in a bar, but definitely worth it. Hard to imagine a beer can get better than this, but I’ll leave leeway of 1 point for the off chance. (99 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Thanks Otto, a wealth of information, as always, and so much that I didn’t know about the process. I used to seek out and drink lambics extensively when I lived in the UK - made a couple trips to Brussels / Flanders and biked to a number of brouwerijs.

I agree that cantillon is among the best - some of the single cuvées that they make that can only be bought at the brouwerij are astounding. Have also been blown away by aged 3 fonteinen and Boon, but this was before I started taking notes and recording impressions. Of course, these are very difficult to obtain and $$$ expensive in the states. Cantillon’s basic rose de gambrinus retails for $80 for 375ml and I’ve seen other bottlings at $300+ for 750ml. So, should I buy 2 bottles of 2001 Tondonia GR or 1 bottle of cantillon :joy:. Reminds me to drink more cantillon on my next trip to Europe.

Look for the Oud Beersel vintage beers, Gueuze and Kriek - 2014 I believe is the current vintage in the states - and Timmermans is just hitting the shores again (they’ve been out of the US market for quite a while) with a wide range of beers (including a Guinness stout/Lambic blend that is spectacular) -

Holy smokes those priced don’t make any sense [wow.gif] [wow.gif] [wow.gif] I mean, the prices I’ve paid are there in my TNs just for comparison’s sake. Gambrinus half bottle usually retails for 10-15€ (used to be 5-6€) and I used to be able to buy 750 ml special bottlings for 12-15€, but nowadays they are 25-30€ and I thought they were getting too expensive for my taste [snort.gif] And I really don’t think the Tondonia GR bottle prices make any sense there either! Those prices are just plain crazy.

Current vintage? You don’t get these at regular intervals? I mean if 2014 means the bottling date, it has arrived there probably 8 years ago and if it means the brewing season, it’s still something like 5-7 years old! We normally have only the most recent brew available (and I prefer it this way unless I can reliably trust the retailer doesn’t keep their beers at room temperature).

Of course it’s a completely different thing if this a back catalog release from the brewery and a recent arrival.

However, IMO Oud Beersel doesn’t rank among the best lambic producers. They’re good, but never particularly interesting. Some special bottlings might be a different thing, though - can’t remember if I’ve tasted any of them!

No, 2014 is what have been shipped from Belgium over the last year from Oud Beersel. 2018s are what is starting to arrive now.