It seems red varieties that are more aromatic aren’t considered serious. The same is somewhat true with white grapes, with even the greatest varieties having a lot of people who object to them.
With reds, I think some of the problem is winemaking. In that, I mean with old school winemaking they can start fading quickly without much age, or even before release. Some seem a bit deficient in one thing or other, as if they were treasured for their aromatics - that’s backed up by many being used as a tiny percentage of a field blend, so they contributed “just enough” pretty aromatics without standing out, and the wine is stable from the other grapes’ properties. Some have been traditionally used for sweet wines, which helps preserve the aromatics. There’s a few in the Piemonte. You can find some particularly good lightly sparkling Brachetto for cheap. it’s like a good, red version of Moscato di Asti. Dry, still versions I’ve had have been a little flat and faded. Ruche is another, but it seems more stable, though I doubt it would age well. I gather those two are traditionally served as special occasion celebratory wines, though other uses, like brunch come to mind. (Black Muscat is a 19th century cross that spread broadly throughout Europe as a blending grape. It’s a dead ringer aromatically for Bracchetto. I made a dry one (with a little blending for just enough tannic backbone) and it paired wonderfully with Burmese food.)
Grignolino is another, and it does have the substance to age well. There are some excellent Italian versions. Heitz made it until recently. Earlier versions seemed a bit much rose petal - too concentrated, so pithy and astringent. More recent ones seemed like they solved that by hanging a heavier crop. One vintage was stunning. The rose I had was nearly as good as the better red and far superior to the other.
Maybe the most well rounded is Touriga Nacional. It’s not over-the-top in aroma, but there’s a lot there, as well as everything else you’d want in a grape to both show well on release and age forever.
Something I’ve noticed anecdotally is a lot of grapes show optimal aromatics before they are otherwise optimally ripe. That makes sense because these are the most volatile aromatic compounds, and their purpose in nature is to attract birds from miles away to where they were growing in forest canopies. (On a side note, birds and bees have strong preferences for some varieties over others. Fiano and Black Muscat, for sure.) These compounds dissipate with hang time and during fermentation and barrel aging. So, the puzzle to solve is balancing how to retain as much aromatics while making a wine that isn’t too punishing on the palate. A lot of Italian wines made for the Italian market are more aromatic and harsher in the mouth than French. It’s a good trade-off if you have them with food that tones down the tannin and acid. But, that’s a traditional rustic thing, no longer necessary. I think there’s some market for light aromatic reds that are best consumed within 6 months of release. Seems like a dangerous prospect, business-wise, going too heavy on something like that. The covid disruption knocking out restaurant sales, for example.
Carbonic maceration is a good way to bring out more aromatics (it creates new precursor compounds the yeast act on). Set aside the bad ones dominate by bubble-gum and banana - that was from a terrible yeast choice. You can go full carbonic, which is in a closed vessel, then press and let the wine finish fermenting and age in stainless. So, you can avoid harsh extraction and maximize aromatics. If you’re in the harsh zone (or other reasons) you can do a very gentle whole cluster ferm, so a large portion of the berries remain intact and there’s just enough juice to cover the must. The stems will raise the pH. You can press early enough to avoid harsh extraction, then out it into stainless to retain aromatics.
Fermenting in concrete tanks holds onto aromatics well. A gentle destemmer that doesn’t break open too many berries also helps.
Also, I noticed a lot of the American hybrid and native grapes my friend made when he was at Terre Vox were particularly aromatic, and quite unique/distinct and attractive. Many (not all) were quite light bodied due to early picking/low ABV. Fascinating stuff.