2021 Riesling
From self-rooted Maresh vineyard vines planted in 1970. To paraphrase the winemaker, this is made in the classic Oregon White Riesling style, not the German or Austrian style. I have no frame of reference for the former and it certainly did not have anything suggesting Germanic Riesling, so I would not have guessed the grape blind. It was really fresh, fruity, refreshing, and nicely acidic, pairing very well with brie and walnuts. A fine aperitif.
2021 Gruner Veltliner
Labeled WV AVA, I do not know the vineyard source. My wife and I just loved this wine. Very much in the style of a crisp N. Italian white with high acidity, fresh floral tones, a bit of peppery spice, and just a hint of spritz (or was that wishful thinking?). This is a perfect wine for drinking this summer. If you are a fan of Kelley’s Pinot Blancs, be sure to try this.
Three of us tried the three Chardonnays in a single evening.
2021 Willamette Valley “Owl Label” Chardonnay
Labeled WV AVA. Produced entirely in stainless steel tank. Glowing, shimmering light gold. The nose morphed a bit. It went from fresh tire rubber (for me) to fresh green beans to bean leaves to vanilla beans. Sounds weird, but it was all good. The palate had searing acidity in the best sense. Fairly full bodied, but light on its feet. A perfect wine for the first 85 degree day of the year. I’d say drink this one soon and embrace its freshness.
2021 Durant Chardonnay, Dundee Hills
Produced entirely in concrete amphora. This had a nicer depth of color than the WV. I got definite sea brine on the nose. My friend insisted on floral notes and I was able to then find some wild roses. My wife chimed in with Meyer lemon blooms. This wine is a bit tight right now and likely too young to show its best. It has a certain mid to full bodied richness to it, but considering how it was producers, this must purely be a factor of fruit concentration. A fine drink now that will likely improve for several years.
2021 Dux Chardonnay, Dundee Hills
Dux is a younger vineyard above Maresh (who also source the fruit) planted with Abbey Ridge Draper clone cuttings. This wine was fermented in stainless steel and racked to neutral French barrique. The color was similar to the Durant, but the nose showed a greater depth and complexity, perhaps due to the wood ageing. We all got fresh herbal tones. I also got red heirloom apples while my wife went with dried pineapple (not tropical notes). We all agree that this seemed the richest and most age worthy of the three Chardonnay, with my friend stating that it was “the most sophisticated and expensive tasting.”
I would hardily recommend all three of these Chardonnay if you can find them.
Finally, we tried two Pinot Blanc over a couple of days.
2021 Pinot Blanc, Freedom Hill
Produced entirely in neutral oak. This is a bit poetic, but I find this wine to have that cool, fresh water nose about it as if you are sitting in the cool shade of a freshwater lake shore under the branches of a leafy trees. Brisk acidity (of course), melon fruit tones, and a blast of crushed rock minerality.
2021 Barbi Pinot Blanc, Freedom Hill
Produced in Acacia puncheons. I know there is some debate whether this wine or the previous one is the best Pinot Blanc. There is no question in my mind that this one is. Possibly I am just drawn to Acacia for the unique nuance it gives the wines (ex: Goodfellow Field Blend). This has a bolder yet more refined acidity to it and a creamy textural richness and viscosity that I find very captivating. It only makes sense that a wine Kelly named after her mother would be so delicious. A favorite wine of mine since 2017, this might be the best version yet.
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