TN: 2020 Dönnhoff Spätlese

  • 2020 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (6/25/2022)
    #17-21, 8.5% abv. This is definitely the largest-scaled and most expansive of the three Spätlese. A generously proportioned nose with a slight white cherry note and other stone fruits, this comes across as more fruit-forward and less herbal and mineral (that’s relatively speaking, mind you). Expansive and broad on the palate, this doesn’t have the linearity and raciness of the Brücke, but nevertheless underneath all that sweet fruit at the forefront of the palate is an impressive mineral core. (95 pts.)
  • 2020 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (6/25/2022)
    #16-21, 8.5% abv. A slight hint of sponti on the nose, with a far more intense stony profile on the nose than the other two wines. There’s a little bit of that Haribo pineapple gummi bear nose here too, and while this doesn’t have quite the same herbal notes as the other two, it makes up for it in terms of the minerality. Correct sweetness for a young Spätlese, with the same chewy minerality on the finish. Less fruit-forward than the Hermannshöhle and not as expansive; this is tauter and shows more tension. A back and forth for me (between sips, even) of whether I prefer this or the Hermannshöhle – kind of like asking whether you prefer Chevalier (this) or Bâtard. (95 pts.)
  • 2020 Dönnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe (6/25/2022)
    #13-21, 8.5% abv. Incredibly pale colour. Slight hint of stone fruit on the nose, but more prominent is a slightly herbal but delicate touch of citrus leaf. Of the three Spätlese, this is easily the most approachable and drinkable right now. Relatively speaking, this wears its heart on its sleeve. The fruit is a little toned down, with more of a herbal citrus character on the palate. Some chewy mineral grip on the back end, giving this a texture I compare to tannins. The sweetest and most forward of the bunch; delicious now and certainly years from now, but the best wine to open now to enjoy. (93 pts.)
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