I honestly don’t know if anyone has ever done anything like this before. I was able to find 15 discrete labels from these two giant families in white burgundy. I thought it would be fun to compare stylistically and it was! These were tasted by me over the course of 4 days. Except for the Pierre Morey and the Bruno Colin, everything else was a Chassagne.
2016 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne Ancegnieres
Very enticing cookie and gingerbread scents. Backhit of salted caramel. Le gout is pink grapefruit but also a dollop of soap/potpourri. Not sure actually what to make of this bottle, unusual for a PYCM.
1980 Albert Morey Chassagne
So first—a great triumph! I got the cork out without a Durand. And…it’s OK? It’s a lot more than OK. Aromatics are low-level tropical and very peachy. To taste, this still has lots of life, replays with maybe a dash of pineapple, but there is nevertheless still requisite acidity to keep this balanced. Quirkily yummy, and a marvelous chance to experience what an older Burgundy white can do. 89
2017 Pierre Morey Meursault
Matchstick, lemon and lime cordial start you off. Sharply defined, very solid 17. Still very young, there are aromatic replays with some sour apple mixed in. Hard to assess at this early stage.
2006 Bernard Morey Chassagne Morgeots
This is a bit shy in the glass, with some apple and light toast coaxed up. But in the mouth, this is scrumplicious–developed and marvelous juicy apple and citrus fruit with some minerals to boot. A star today and I could drink lots and lots of this.
2014 Bruno Colin Bourgogne Blanc
“humble” Bourgogne? Not this guy! Full of character with apple, pear, a bit of chalk and real minerality. Somehow, amongst all that, this gives the sense of a joyous wine. A great pleasure and a triumph! 93
2018 Morey-Coffinet Chassagne Houillieres
I’ve been chary of the 2018s, but this was a splendid surprise. Top notes of meyer lemon with granny smith apple filtering through, there is a balanced steeliness and structure that reminds me of Puligny. Excellent.
2014 Caroline Morey Chassagne Champs Gain
Surprisingly tropical for this vintage, plantain, pineapple and sweet vanilla are all present scents. Tighter dans la bouche with more of an apple centre, very light touch of saline. I do find the oak a touch heavy here.
2016 Thomas Morey Chassagne Baudines
Clear and precise lemon, flint and grapefruit tones. Some lilac blossom too. This is subtle and beautiful. Just an a point presentation with the barest caress of vanilla around yellow fruit. Sighnomenal. 94
2011 Morey-Blanc Corton Charlemagne
Although one worries at the deep golden hue, no oxidative notes on aroma. Instead, polished pear and apple take the stage. Peach blossom later. This is a really harmonious effort. It has measured saline-infused apple and light peach tastes and is as stately as it gets. I see why the crowd polished this off. Outstanding.
2011 Jean-Marc Morey Chassagne Chenevottes
Quiet nose with breadcrumbs, lemon and apple in there. Nicely shaped, it’s crisp with a tangy almond backhit that I like. Missing some complexity, but holding up well. Good exposition of Chassagne.
2011 Philippe Colin Chassagne Les Chaumees
Fresh-washed stones, nectarine and apple blossom here. This is showing as an in-place white Burg. Tangy citrus with dashes of cashew and hazelnut. What it may miss in intensity it compensates for in elegance and class.
2018 Joseph Colin Chassagne
Roasted corn and nut aromatics, baked vanilla and apple too. Bold yet controlled, there is oak here, but it’s used knowing it will meld into the near-rich apple and pear fruit. Sneaky length. Give this 3 years and take the enjoyable ride.
2015 Vincent & Sophie Morey Chassagne Embazees
Florals & orange blossom, hint of mineral too with bosc pear and sweet lime on a second nosing. In the mouth, a soft entry leads to a subtly complex palate that hits most of the aromatics. I do like the linkup between aroma and palate. Misty finish, it’s quite lovely and harmonious.
2013 Marc Morey Chassagne En Virondots
Quirky nose of iodine, varnish and lime. Acidity is present here and faint-ish replays with perfumey adds. The structure sort of draws the taste down into the middle of the mouth, without filling the sides. Finish is fine with some toast, but I admire this wine rather than like it.
2014 Marc Colin Chassagne En Cailleret
Here, the brioche is intoxicating. Whispers of mulled apple cider, pear and pit fruit. What a nose! This last taste for me of the wines from the event is one of the best. Tremendous balance, it plays your mouth like a virtuoso. Apple with lemon and bartlett pear all chime in with that lovely take-you-to-the-boulangerie brioche/flaky pastry note still going. The breathe-back is nearly as much fun. Especially it being 4 days later, this is stunning and honestly the best white Burg I’ve had in a long time. 96