TNs: Some celebratory wines

Finally caught up on notes for the past week!

CHAMPAGNES AT QUAN XIANG YUAN - (2/6/2022)

Champagne theme with interesting producers and what I thought to be a very good showing overall.

  • 2012 Rudi Pichler Riesling Smaragd Achleiten - Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
    Much darker in colour compared to previous wines from the same producer. Generous and round with a honey note, and a saline quality which seems to be a common theme across all of Pichler’s wines that I have tried. (90 pts.)
  • 2006 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Grand Cru Fleur de Passion Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Wanted to share one of my favourite producers so brought this along. Round and ripe fruit while still having a good dose of acidity so it was a tough one to call, but someone managed to nail this as a BdB. Very good but preferred the 2004 and 2012 which were more chiselled and less overt in comparison. (92 pts.)
  • 2012 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Minéral Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    This divided the table, it was voted as the favourite for some but it was the bottom few for others. I belonged to the latter camp and was not surprised when it was revealed to be an Agrapart, somehow I have never gotten along with his wines. Slightly lean and shrill, with some green and heavy fruit that just came across as a little disjointed for me. (89 pts.)
  • NV Charles Heidsieck Villers-Marmery Blanc - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
    Second time having a Heidsieck Coteaux Champenois from a generous friend who shared another village from the same case previously. Didn’t like this as much as the Oger, was a little too round and exotic to the point of being flabby, would have been tough to place this as a Chardonnay. Surprised that the tasting notes that came with the wine mentioned that it was the most linear village in the case of four. (89 pts.)
  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Brut Esprit de Giraud - France, Champagne
    Brought as an extra bottle having bought this at auction, wanted to see how entry-level NVs do with a little ageing. Slightly honeyed and oxidative but not particularly interesting or complex for me. (88 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Nowack Champagne La Fontinette Extra Brut - France, Champagne
    100% Meunier. More full-bodied and yeasty compared to the other cuvees that I have tried from this producer. Not much development in terms of complexity as it was still quite primary. Turned dark gold in colour and lost a little vivacity with air, reminded me of a Chenin actually when it became more like a still wine. Been quite impressed with this producer across their range. (91 pts.)
  • 2015 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut MV Les Barres - France, Champagne
    Very true to Chartogne-Taillet’s style so it wasn’t difficult to guess this. Round and slightly oxidative, red-fruited strawberry notes typical of Pinot Noir-dominant champagnes. Always love the balance between the richness and acid from this producer. (92 pts.)
  • 2015 Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Blanc d’Argile Brut Nature - France, Champagne
    First time trying this producer and despite his reputation for variability I was quite impressed. Very rich and it fooled me into thinking that it had a generous dosage so I guessed that it was a house champagne. Had a good tension and nervosity nevertheless, people who are into racy champagnes loved this. Became a little candied over time. (92 pts.)
  • 2013 Jean-Marc Vincent Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru
    A little earthy and rustic with red cherries on the nose and the palate, a very classic Burgundy from a cooler year. Liked the acidity but might be a little shrill for some. Very good value. (91 pts.)


DIBBS’ EARLY BIRTHDAY - (3/6/2022)

  • 2009 Marie Courtin Champagne Indulgence Extra Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
    First Marie Courtin and it was in line with what others have mentioned - rather strict and linear. Very dark red in colour which reminded me of some of the roses that push red wine territory like Pepe. Not very giving at first without much aroma or fruit, but with air the cranberry fruit began to show and reminded me of those cranberry juices that they serve on flights. More of an intellectual curiosity. (90 pts.)
  • 2008 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d’Morissio Riserva Monprivato - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Agree that this was too young to open but wanted to check in on one. Wonderful crystalline red fruit and seductive nose on opening but became shutdown with air as the structure and tannin came to dominate. Everyone was in burgundy for this and I could see why, I really loved the weightless quality on this. Started to come out of its shell only at the end of the night, but the potential is immense on this one. Very much my kind of wine but I’ll keep my bottle away for at least 10 more years. (95 pts.)
  • 1996 Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
    Pristine cork. Thought this showed quite similar to the Groffier Amoureuses a few weeks back, but guess the similarity was down to more old-school winemaking (that I actually really like). Got it right on the second try as the blue fruit put me in MSD. Wonderful perfume that was seductive but also had some brooding darker notes of coffee and earth. Palate was quite tight still at first but the red and blue fruit emerged with air. The structure and fruit came together quite seamlessly, the fruit was both vibrant and had the concentration of a proper grand cru. An absolute treat. (97 pts.)
  • 1997 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sperss - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Cork completely soaked through. I was in Italy but was stumped as I didn’t know that Gaja bottled his Nebbiolo in Bordeaux bottles. Otherwise this was in line with what I expected Gaja to be, 97 Gaja was one of my bucket list wines so a real pleasure to have this. A modern and polished nose, more overt structure and density compared to the weightless Monprivato but very impressive in terms of its suaveness that carried its stature well. Great wine. (96 pts.)
  • 1990 Château Trotanoy - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
    Apparently there is a lot of bottle variation to this wine but this was my second time having it and I was still nonplussed. Very green on the nose for a 1990, the red fruit a little riper and fuller on the palate but not much going on in terms of excitement. (88 pts.)

  • 2016 Chiara Condello Romagna Predappio Riserva Le Lucciole - Italy, Emilia-Romagna, Romagna (5/6/2022)
    Modern style but still extremely enjoyable, reminded me of a new-school Bordeaux that focuses on clean and pure fruit without overdoing it on the oak. Very impressed with this. (92 pts.)
  • 2010 Antoniolo Gattinara San Francesco - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (5/6/2022)
    Still rather tight and the tannins are yet to be resolved. High acid and very pure cherry fruit but the tannins on the finish takes over a little too much. Better to hold off on this. (89 pts.)

2011 Passopisciaro Sicilia Contrada Sciaranuova - unfortunately cooked

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