2019 Monilia Colli Tortonesi Derthona - Italy, Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi (5/22/2022)
Until tonight, I had never tasted a wine made with the timorasso grape.
The problem with describing a new variety is that I want to describe it in terms of what it’s not, which sounds like a negative. In reality, I’m trying to use my existing knowledge base to understand something that is new to me. With that being said…
I like this wine a LOT. The color is a pale yellow. There is a good dose of lemon on the nose. The nose has an initial softness that makes you think maybe the wine has seen a bit of oak. But then you realize this is merely a thin veneer hiding a bright freshness that says “you’re gonna get a lot of acid.” (And boy, does it deliver!)
The palate is very focused, like a Kabinett riesling, but without any other riesling characteristics. A big ball of acid immediately unfurls across my palate (as opposed to a riesling would “dance” or “bubble” across). There’s a juicy citrus taste. Maybe some quince. I get the feel of Chablis or Oregon Chardonnay, but there’s something else that throws me off. Maybe it has a bit of Loire Sauvignon Blanc, but without the stone/sour fruit? (Zero stone fruit, which is a plus for me.) Or perhaps a bit of Vouvray?
The finish is quenching and makes me want to run my tongue across the roof of my mouth.
This was terrific with a dinner of sheet pan chicken. Basically, set chicken thighs on top of a bed of shallots, lardons, potatoes, and torn bread (all of which has been tossed in olive oil and Italian herbs). Roast at 400 degrees until the thighs read 160 degrees. The chicken bastes everything underneath.
This is not an uber-fatty dish, but there’s enough going on that the wine took great pleasure in clearing off my palate, refreshing it for the next bite.
Other dishes I think would pair well are Chinese food (esp pot stickers), seared scallops with a dusting of cayenne, and pork belly.
As I write this note, I am sipping a glass by itself. Here, the acid is a bit much. If you’re going to drink this on a hot summer night, or as an aperitif, I would wait a few months for it to calm down.
I can see this drinking very well for at least 5 years. The key is to determine what you like on the back end. If you like super high acid, drink on the early side. If you don’t, hold until 2024.
Purchased on BerserkerDay. Very glad I have 5 more bottles to explore. (91 pts.)
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