CHARITY WINE FUNCTION FOR WHATCOM HOSPICE FOUNDATION - Samish Hill, Bellingham, WA (5/15/2022)
For years, we have donated a wine event at our local hospice foundation annual auction. Last night, six fun former strangers joined us as a result of their charitable bid. We tried to match their generosity with a fun assortment of wines and fares.
The Prep
I had a half bottle of Foillard CdP in the refrigerator, but Marybeth wanted a white. MB, our friend Bacchus and I had hours of preperation for the event, so they were sipped while we worked. As the hours drifted away, I asked âshould I open a half bottle of Krug?â, probably a question to which no one in the history of the universe has ever responded with a nay.
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2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines - France, Burgundy, CĂŽte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Iâm the lone outlier. I liked this, but less than any of the critics and reviewers on CT. It was both nervy and dense. Citrus, apple and even pineapple take a backseat to the matchstick reduction. The flinty sulfur never diminished even when revisiting the bottle six hours after opening. I like a little reduction in my white burgundy and champagne, but it was the dominant scent. This bottle was one of my least favorite PYCM whites. I wouldnât turn down a glass if offered, but if I had more in the cellar, Iâd trade it for something else. -
2009 Jean Foillard Morgon CĂŽte du Py - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
We enjoyed this while prepping and cooking. Less blocky than the last one I opened in â13. While some Beaujolais can become somewhat burgundy-like in time, I donât see that possibility for the â09 Foillars CdP. Still, time has tamed its jamminess. Baked cherries and licorice, very floral. It was a fun bottle. -
NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 167eme - France, Champagne
Fantastic from a .375cc bottle. Iâll just retype my TN from April after this beautiful repeat performance. I love Krug in half bottles. Itâs approachable so much earlier than the 750âs. This, a 167 from base year 2011. Donât let the weak base vintage discourage you; this is a great Grande CuvĂše. Saline, lemon juice and glycerin; yeasty yellow fruit. With air, a gorgeous orange and savory brown spice/ginger/nutmeg note. Drinking remarkably well in this format.
Oysters with Champagne and Muscadet
Fresh and delicious Kumamoto oysters with lemon and fresh horseradish. Going with the theme of classic pairings.
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2012 Dom PĂ©rignon Champagne - France, Champagne
This is a great vintage for DP. Really nice in its youth like the 2008 was, and like the â08 it will probably shut down hard in a year or so. Autolytic bready notes, scents and flavors of a bowl of assorted citrus fruit and apples, and that typical Dom Perignon smoky reduction. Incredibly long finish. I loved it. -
2017 Domaine de la PĂ©piĂšre Muscadet de SĂšvre-et-Maine sur lie Vieilles Vignes Clos des Briords - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de SĂšvre-et-Maine sur lie
I always love PĂ©piĂšreâs Clos des Briords. This seemed a little more dense and ripe than typically, and a bit less cut. Still, a triumph in a challenging vintage.
Caviar and Champagne
Nice osetra caviar, served on toast points with creme fraiche and shallots, or potato chips, or deviled eggs, but also eaten alone off the space between thumbs and indices.
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2009 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne
Wonderful as usual. The premature slaughter of my once ample stock of this wine continues. Lemon cream, orchard fruit, patisserie. A classical dancerâs balance, elegance and power. I fear none of my bottles of â09 will reach the apogee of maturity.
Cheese, Charcuterie and Rosé Champagne
Not necessarily a classic pairing, but no one could deny the synergy of the wine and food. Some great meats and cheeses, including an artisanal Comté, Rogue River Blue which deserved its Grand Champion award at the 2019/20 World Cheese Awards in Bergamo, Italy; some nice ages cheeses from Vermont Cheese Company, and some European goat and sheep cheeses. On the charcuterie side, we had delicious Speck and Prosciutto from La Quercia, as well as sliced Finocchiona and Mole salami.
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NV Marc Hébrart Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
From a magnum, sabered for the fun of it. The Hebrart RosĂš once again over-delivered for its price. Everything there in the right proportions, it was utterly drinkable, and unashamed in the company of the Grand Marquesâ tĂȘte de cuvĂšes. Creamy strawberry and sweet orange, some minerals in the background. It paired beautifully with charcuterie and cheeses.
Foie Gras terrine and Sauternes
Back to the theme of classic pairing. I used to sear fresh foie gras at these tastings, but changed to a nice terrine for simplicity and higher acceptance at the tastings. This from Hudson Valley Farms
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2001 ChĂąteau Suduiraut - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Suduiraut takes its place amongst the best Sauternes of this great vintage. The sweet honeyed botrytis, marmalade and brown spice notes are elevated by crisp acidity. A triumph for Suduiraut in 2001.
Steak + Bdx and Nebbiolo; plus pasta with a fresh Ramp pesto
Flannery Jorge steak pan seared, then oven finished, then cubed and served with caramelized small onions and DeCarlo semi-dried Pomodorini tomatoes. Inaudiâs egg tagliolini with Ramp pesto made with fresh ramps fedexed from the midwest, greek pine nuts, and Quinterelli olive oil. These courses were outstanding.
At these events, I typically serve a truffle dish. However, the only available in May were early Summer Truffles, and even at peak season, those arenât my favorite variety. I still felt the need to open an old Barolo out of habit
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1967 Fontanafredda Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Carefully decanted for hours. Light colored and translucent, more orange-ruby than brown. Admittedly past prime, but still so fresh for its age. Sweet strawberry, cherry; some earthy light mushroom on the palate. Medium bodied, gently acidic, this was a beauty. -
1996 ChĂąteau Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, MĂ©doc, Pauillac
I loved this wine, although it could have used a longer decant or more time in the cellar. Very classic; dark fruit and cassis, tobacco box. Tannins add texture.
Pregant pause in the tasting requires a bottle
Spontaneous grab from the cellar, after vacillating between Egly Ouriet, Vilmart and Taittinger.
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2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
An interlude in the tasting before dessert wines required filling. Other than the Hebrart RosĂš, we had opened grandes marques tĂȘte de cuvĂšes, so I repeated that theme. The â06 Taittinger Comtes typically thrills, and this bottle was no exception. A voluptuous mouthfeel, with creamy lemon and orange, mild flint reduction brioche. Iâve always liked this wine.
Dessert wines with chocolate or stilton cheese; pick your poison
Marybethâs homemade chocolate ganache cake, or a nice stilton cheese to end the night, paired with an ancient cask aged port and a bottle aged vintage port.
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NV Whitwham Porto Millennium - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Not bad for a 142 year old. Cloudy and brown; I wasnât careful enough with the pour. Baking spices, caramel, dried figs and dates. Nice length and complexity. A slight whiff of VA. All in all, a beautiful wood aged port. -
2000 Warre Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Every so slightly corked. This is the first time Iâve been able to drink my whole glass of a wine despite TCA. Itâs also the first time i bothered to write a tasting note on a flawed wine. There was enough going on to stand up to the very mild taint. Ripe but not at all jammy. All things considered, it was an enjoyable bottle.
Another successful annual wine event raising funds for the Hospice House. The company, conversation, food and wine were all outstanding. These evenings give us both the opportunity to meet new friends, and to open bottles typically saved for such special occasions. Cheers to a great night and a great cause.