TN: Some current red Burgundies

WINE TALK
1
  • 2018 Dujac Fils et Père Chambolle-Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Corked. NR (flawed)
  • 2017 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
    Served double blind. Very clean but clearly of a more old school sensibility with a slight bit of bricking relative to most other wines today. Lighter in style with a distinct, woodsy (not oak) and earthy note on the palate. The fruit is crystalline and quite nice. (90 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
    Served double blind. A very nice nose with a modest perfumed note, but also plenty of ripe fruit. The acidic structure made me guess 2019. The fruit is a black and red mix. Overall missing a sense of place for me, but an excellent bottle of pinot noir nonetheless. Clearly a more modern disposition than the Chevillon or Lafarge. (90 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Y. Clerget Volnay 1er Cru Carelle Sous la Chapelle - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
    Served double blind. Aromatically intense and dark-fruited on the nose and palate (I actually thought this was a 2018). Lots of fruit with a touch of gloss and plenty of spicy notes. Given the fullness of the wine, I thought this might have been a Côte de Beaune instead. A touch of oak as well. (90 pts.)
  • 2019 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Mousse - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
    Oddly a bit of a coffee tone on the nose here. The oak seems to figure prominently and there isn’t as much fruit as I would have liked to see for a wine this young. Angular tannins on the finish. Admittedly somewhat disappointing; I was expecting more from Bouchard. (88 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
    Served double blind. Red-fruited in disposition but very clear bricking versus many of the other wines. That and the acidity made this an easy 2017 guess. Light on the fruit overall, this is more earth and acidity focussed. Of a more rustic, backwards style, this seems to be of a style from many years ago. (90 pts.)
  • 2018 Charles Lachaux Pommard Cuvée Auprès du Clos - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
    Served double blind. Clearly some sort of post-modernist thing going on here. Drinks like a Passetoutgrains but without the weight of the good versions. The palate is of a very light style, with pleasant crunchy red fruit and lots of acidity, but no real sense of place. Scarcely any tannins. I like the aromatics, especially with more air – plenty of perfumed fruit here. Drinkable now, and probably not to hold for any significant time period at all. (90 pts.)
  • 2017 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages
    Served double blind. A huge sulphurous, farty note on the nose. The palate is ripe without being overbearing, and shows more acidity than the 2018 version. Red fruit and a slight bit of smokiness but the offensively sulphurous nose has me thinking something isn’t quite right here.
  • 2018 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Côte de Nuits Villages - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Nuits Villages
    Served double blind. Juicy, sweet, and very large-scaled, this is definitely Côte de Nuits, and the weightiness has me thinking this is Gevrey. Clearly a 2018 from the ripeness of the fruit, but the rest of the wine does not feel overweight or clumsy in any way. A modest amount of oak frames this wine. (90 pts.)
2

That sucks. I was looking forward to your TN on this. I only have one and couldn’t get my hands on more.

3

Same here. Sorry for your luck. I’m drinking the 2019 right now and it’s amazing. Ready to go right out of the bottle. I thought Dujac was known for oak but none to be found here. Amazing depth of flavor and mouthfeel. It’s a solid village, certainly missing some weight found in a 1er. But a quality village that’s very drinkable, while still being elegant and well rounded.

1 Like
4

And you get a 90, and you get a 90 and you…

5

I agree with Phil. That sucks. Dujac is hard to buy in Quebec, Canada. You need to be lucky on the lottery system.

6

Is 90 the new black?

7

I had this wine at the Paulee grand tasting in 2020 and liked it a good bit.

8

I guess Adrian is not drinking wines that are as good as the ones he used to drink. These only get 90 whereas he used to drink nothing but 93 point wines.

9

No, it’s the new 93.