TN: BYOP (Bring Your Own Port)!

In our small-ish circle of wine drinkers, there’s one Port (/fortified wine) enthusiast who consistently brings terrific fortified wines into his tastings as a way to finish off a tasting and every now and then brings a bottle if we have our BYOB-blind tastings. However, as we have tastings specifically on Port wines so seldom, he decided to arrange a Bring-Your-Own-Port tasting. The idea was pretty simple - the admittance fee was a bottle of Vintage Port or Colheita.

Unfortunately we couldn’t find that many attendees, as most wine enthusiasts just don’t seem to be that interested on collecting and aging Vintage Ports around here. However, that fortunately meant that even though we didn’t have that many different labels, at least the pours were generous! [cheers.gif]

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Evolved, medium-deep coppery-reddish color. Evolved and very complex nose with aromas of nutty oxidation, Seville orange tones, some smoky tertiary character, light sweet nuances of syrup and orange marmalade, a little bit of boozy alcohol, mushroomy hints of porcini and a touch of rose hip jam. The wine is sweet, full-bodied and moderately oxidative with flavors of syrupy molasses and peppery spice, some orange marmalade, light apricot tones, a little bit of caramel, a hint of raisins and a touch of dried dates. The acidity feels quite low and the high alcohol lends some obvious warmth to the palate. The finish is sweet, soft and syrupy with long and quite oxidative flavors of dried dates and raisins, some oxidative notes of chopped walnuts, a little bit of dried apricots, light mushroomy notes of porcini, a tired hint of cardboard character and a touch of molasses.

An interesting sticky that was completely impossible to place correctly anywhere. Almost everybody agreed that the wine was from Europe and it showed some obvious aged character, but it didn’t remind of any known fortified wine style we could think of. And no wonder: nobody thought of fortified Bordeaux - probably because nobody had even heard of such style of wine. Distinctive and quite enjoyable, but from the rather oxidative and slightly tired overall character it’s obvious that this wine has seen better days. Probably better if this had been drunk 5-10 years ago. (84 pts.)

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  • 1997 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (30.9.2021)
    Made with fruit sourced from the two Taylor estates, Quinta de Vargellas (contributing perfume and structure) and Quinta de Terra Feita (contributing body, fruit and depth). This was the last vintage that was blended without any fruit from Quinta do Junco. Bottled in 1999, after 2 years of aging in traditional 535-liter oak pipes. 20,5% alcohol, 90 g/l residual sugar and 4,4 g/l acidity.

Dark, luminous and still relatively youthful ruby red color with a pale ruddy rim. Rich, sweetish nose with aromas of blueberry jam, some fresh blackcurrant tones, a little bit of boozy aguardente, light sappy notes of stemmy greenness, a heady hint of perfumed flowers and a touch of ripe bilberry. The wine is dense, youthful and chewy on the palate with a full body and intense flavors of ripe bilberries, some blackcurrant jam, light plummy tones, a little bit of kirsch, light stony mineral tones, a perfumed hint of violets and a herbal touch of sappy greenness. The overall feel is very balanced, but also surprisingly soft and gentle for such a young Vintage Port, the moderately high acidity being very balanced with the body, but the tannins coming across as very mellow and silky in texture, retaining surprisingly little grip. The finish is sweet, moderately warm and very juicy with a lengthy aftertaste of ripe bilberries, some sweet, pruney dark fruit, light piquant notes of peppery spice, a little bit of kirsch, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of blackcurrant jam.

A very sophisticated, balanced and harmonious Vintage Port that is both remarkably youthful for its age, but also surprisingly gentle and silky for a Taylor’s Vintage Port - after all, this shipper is best known for wines that are often described as “austere”, “structured” or “masculine”. Instead of coming across as particularly austere or muscular, this wine was very juicy, supple and silky in texture with vibrant fruit flavors and very balanced overall feel. Structurally the wine is perfectly ready for drinking and doesn’t really call for any additional aging, but if one likes their VPs to have taken their first steps toward a more Tawny Port terrotory, i.e. to show some tertiary complexity, this wine doesn’t have any of that. No, instead the fruit department here is so vibrant and youthful it’s hard to believe this wine would be any older than 10 years old. Smashing stuff with still lots of mileage left in the tank. Expect the score to inch higher as the wine puts more age under its belt. Highly recommended. (92 pts.)

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Somewhat evolved and moderately translucent ruby red color with a developed pomegranate hue. Somewhat restrained and slightly evolved nose with fine-tuned and very multi-layered aromas of dried dates, some raisiny tones, a little bit of nutty complexity, light dark-toned fruit notes of plums and blueberries, a hint of mushroomy sous-bois and a touch of blackcurrant marmalade. The wine feels wonderfully silky and suave on the palate with a full body and sweet flavors of dried figs and dates, some raisiny tones, a little bit of savory exotic spice, light blueberry tones, a hint of dried flowers and a touch of stony minerality. The high alcohol lends some obvious heat to the palate. The overall feel is firm yet velvety smooth, thanks to the rather high acidity and quite gentle, almost fully resolved tannins. The finish is warm, harmonious and quite lengthy with sweet, moderately evolved flavors of raisins, some dried dates, a little bit of blueberry jam, light fragrant notes of baking spices, a hint of fig jam and a touch of balancing bitterness.

A beautiful, harmonious and moderately evolved Vintage Port that is in a terrific spot right now. In our VP tasting this wine felt moderately evolved compared to the other Ports of similar age, but even then it was obvious this wine was still on an upward trajectory. However, it feels as though the peak maturity is not far away, so most likely any additional development is going to be quite limited. All in all, people were a bit surprised how evolved this was for a 1994 VP, but then again, this is a SQVP not a “true” VP, which might explain something. Drink now or keep for a decade or so. Very lovely stuff, recommended. (93 pts.)

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  • 1997 Dow Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto (30.9.2021)
    Made with fruit sourced from the two Dow estates, Quinta do Bomfim and Quinta de Senhora da Ribeira, both which are planted to high percentage of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional. There is also a not insignificant amount of Tinta Barroca, along with some Tinta Roriz and a smaller amount of local interplanted varieties. Bottled unfined and unfiltered in 1999, after 18 months of aging in traditional 535-liter oak pipes. 20% alcohol, 90 g/l residual sugar and 4,35 g/l acidity.

Dense, fully opaque blackish-red color with a subtly evolved brick-red hue and a lighter strawberry-red rim. Somewhat savory yet still sweet-toned and quite concentrated nose with aromas of peppery spice, some ripe cherries, a little bit of juicy boysenberry, light boozy notes of aguardente, a hint of something meaty, a lifted touch of sweet VA and a whiff of blueberry juice. The wine feels concentrated, somewhat spicy and even slightly fiery on the palate with rather sweet and still remarkably youthful flavors of bilberry jam, overripe dark plums, some peppery spice, light boysenberry tones, a little bit of charred meat, a hint of tobacco and a touch of wizened black cherry. The overall feel is enjoyably firm and chewy, thanks to the quite high acidity and somewhat grippy medium tannins. The finish is rich, quite powerful and somewhat warm with very long, sweet flavors of ripe blueberries, some boysenberry jam, light licorice nuances, a little bit of peppery spice, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of bright red-toned cherry fruit. The tannins lend some balancing grip and roughness to the otherwise slightly sticky finish.

Although the wine felt a bit closed upon opening, it unfurled quite quickly into one really beautiful and expressive Vintage Port that felt much youthful than its age made you expect. True to the Dow’s style, the wine feels slightly drier and more peppery compared to the slightly sweeter, softer and fruitier styles of many other shippers. The wine is in a wonderful spot right now, but it’s painfully obvious it’s still miles away from its apogee. Although the wine now gliding into its drinking window, I heartily recommend to give it more age - this wine will reward patient people abundantly. (93 pts.)

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  • 1982 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Quinta de Terra Feita - Portugal, Douro, Porto (30.9.2021)
    A single-quinta Vintage Port made with fruit sourced from Taylor’s Quinta de Terra Feita estate, which is normally used to contribute body, fruit and depth to the Vintage Port. Bottled in 1984, after 2 years of aging in traditional 535-liter oak pipes. 20,5% alcohol.

Moderately translucent dark cherry-red color with an evolved syrupy-maroon hue. Wonderfully evolved, seductive and quite fine-tuned nose with sweet aromas of strawberries, some raspberry marmalade, light fried flower tones, a little bit of freshly baked licorice, hints of ripe cranberries and bilberries and a faint, lifted volatile touch of nail polish remover. The wine feels silky, moderately sweet and quite full-bodied on the palate with complex, mature flavors of blueberry jam, some wild strawberry tones, a little bit of cooked cream, light sweet notes of dried dates and plum compote, a hint of baking spice and a touch of ripe boysenberries. The overall feel is firm and very balanced, but not particularly muscular - thanks to the medium-to-moderately high acidity and fully resolved, velvety medium tannins. The finish is long, slightly hot and gently grippy with very complex flavors of ripe dark plums, blueberry jam, light tertiary notes of dried flowers, a little bit of damson liqueur, dried-fruit hints of raisins and dates and a touch of leather.

A beautiful, delicious and wonderfully evolved single-quinta Vintage Port that is now at its plateau of maturity - and probably has been there for quite some time. The structure has softened up considerably, but not too much as the wine still retains great sense of balance. The flavors have developed some haunting tertiary flavors, but there is enough vibrant fruit so that the wine doesn’t come across as fully tertiary but still packing verve and some nice freshness. I don’t expect the wine improve from here with any additional aging, but neither I believe it will fall apart anytime soon. Drink now or within the following decade. Superb stuff. (95 pts.)

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Dark, dense and fully opaque blackish-red color with an evolved figgy hue. Surprisingly evolved and even slightly oxidative nose with aromas of raisins and dried dates, some cacao nibs, a little bit of dried dates, light boozy notes of alcohol, oxidative hints of meat stew and soy sauce and a touch of strawberry jam. The wine is dense, chewy and very sweet on the palate with a noticeably full body and intense flavors of raisins and dried dates, some oxidative notes of meat stew, a little bit of fig liqueur, light evolved waxy tones, a hint of syrupy richness and a touch of soy sauce. Although the wine feels noticeably big and rich for a Vintage Port, it comes across as surprisingly balanced, thanks to its rather high acidity and still quite grippy medium-plus tannins. The sweetness makes the mouthfeel a bit sticky. The finish is broad and slightly sticky with long, evolved and noticeably sweet flavors of raisins, some dried dates, light oxidative notes of meat stew, soy sauce and umami, a little bit of peppery spice and a hint of cacao nibs.

A surprisingly evolved - perhaps even prematurely so - and super-rich Vintage Port that came across as the sweetest and weightiest in style in our tasting of five Vintage Ports. Furthermore, this wine was noticeably more evolved than most of the other wines, even though this was the youngest vintage as well. Apparently the 2003 vintage was very hot in Douro, which has lent a quite ponderous and raisiny feel to the wine and perhaps also contributed to the somewhat limited aging potential of his wine. Unlike the two remarkably youthful 1997 Vintage Ports in our tasting (Dow and Taylor) that were still probably decades away from their apogees, this Kopke 2003 felt like it was very close to its peak, or already peaking now. While some Amarones are every now and then described as “Porty”, in this tasting this particular Vintage Port felt much more “Amaroney” than any other Port. Pretty good stuff, but didn’t reach the heights of the other bottles. But then again, this was a bargain at 31,40€, even when taking the quality into account. (90 pts.)

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  • 1979 Kopke Porto Colheita - Portugal, Douro, Porto (30.9.2021)
    20% alcohol, 134 g/l residual sugar, 4,77 g/l acidity and pH 3,55.

Clear, moderately deep and fully translucent maple syrup color. Evolved, complex and quite savory nose with layered aromas of dusty old wood, floral notes of honeysuckle, some maple syrup, light creamy notes of panna cotta, a little bit of dried apricots, a hint of caramel and a touch of rose hip jam. Fascinating stuff, lots of things going on here. The wine is full-bodied, quite concentrated and noticeably sweet on the palate with intense flavors of caramel and maple syrup, some dried nectarine, light floral notes of honeysuckle, a little bit of crème brûlée, a spicy hint of savory old wood and a touch of strawberry jam. There are no tannins whatsoever at this point, so the structure relies solely on the balanced, high acidity. The finish is very long, sweet and somewhat sticky with intense flavors of caramel and maple syrup, some creamy notes of crème brûlée, light nuances of dried nectarines, a little bit of dusty old wood, a hint of baking spices and a touch of sweet red fruits.

A beautiful, complex and still remarkably vibrant Colheita that shows quite a bit of richness - this wine came across as somewhat sweeter than any of the five Vintage Ports we tasted before this - but enough acidity to carry the richness with remarkable grace. Despite its age, the wine doesn’t feel particularly mature, but instead has retained a lovely streak of sweet red fruit in addition to its more tertiary Tawny flavors. A terrific and captivating wine by any accounts. (96 pts.)

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Moderately deep yellow-green color. Fragrant nose with aromas of ripe peach, some perfumed notes of crushed rose petals, a little bit of apple jam, light creamy notes of vanilla custard, red toned hints of cherries and even cherry pits, a touch of woody oak spice and a whiff of banana marshmallow. The wine feels dry, crisp and medium-bodied on the palate with somewhat odd flavors of banana yogurt and sourmilk, chalky mineral bitterness, some sweet oak spice, a little bit of ripe peach-driven stone fruit, light creamy notes of vanilla custard, a hint of leesy character and a touch of tangy salinity. The mousse feels creamy and silky smooth, whereas the structured acidity feels very crisp and incisive. Technically the wine feels bone dry, but the sweeter-toned flavors lend an illusion of sweetness to the wine. The finish is crisp, long and creamy with flavors of banana, some chalky minerality, light creamy oak tones, a little bit of vanilla custard, a hint of tangy salinity and a touch of ripe and somewhat mealy apple.

A quite balanced Blanc de Blancs that is both bone-dry and still tastes slightly sweet-toned at the same time. However, the flavors are a bit odd - even at 8 years of age the wine retains this slightly weird, almost candied banana marshmallow character and there seems to be some sweet, toasty oak spice that really hasn’t integrated with the fruit, but instead feels a bit disjointed from the fruit. This feels like a wine that might’ve been awkward but in its own way impressive in its youth, but one should expect the wine to have reached some kind of balance by now. Instead the wine is still somehow all over the place and doesn’t really show much focus at the moment. Furthermore, the producer’s website says the 2014 vintage of this wine is vinified entirely in stainless steel, which makes me wonder whether the 2013 vintage was vinified differently or if we were just tasting somewhere that wasn’t there! Because I was not the only one who commented how the wine seemed to exhibit some obvious woody tones that felt quite unintegrated from the fruit. All in all, a real conundrum for a wine. But at least we were sure that a Champagne this was not! And even my guess of German sparkling wine was correct! (Although I guessed a German sparkling wine made from predominantly red grapes…) (86 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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