Some wine notes from Uruguay

After adding another 600 hectare vineyard property to the Sabelli-Frisch empire’s expansion into South America (this will be a nice addition to the newly acquired 1200 acres adjacent to To Kalon, paid for by cash from the BD windfall), I promptly ordered the gaucho to bring me the finest wines from the bodega’s cellar for me to sample - a quick lick of the lash helped him see the urgency of the need!

Kidding.

I’m here for my day job. But unbeknownst to me, they’d booked a tasting menu and flights at the vineyards of the Bodega Bouza, about an hour outside of Montevideo. Who am I to say no to that??

But slow your roll, let’s start a few days before. For first night’s dinner: 2016 Familia Deicas Preludio - some sort of Merlot, Tannat blend. Rather nice actually, soft tannins, not too pondering.

Then on second day, the client had heard about Tannat being the local grape, so they were fixated on that. Nothing else would do. A 2018 Pizzorno Riserva promptly showed up at table at the very nice restaurant La Otra in Montevideo. Kinda typical Tannat in that it has that slightly bitter tannin note, but was otherwise pretty well integrated, although on the larger side. Oak, of course.



A quick note on the Bife the Lomo that was ordered for the table - that very first bite of that, when it was just off the grill and oozing still, was perhaps the best single bite of meat I’ve had. Very impressive. I love how they have some sort of government decree here for restaurants admonishing them if they over-salt, so the meats are always quite lightly salted and it really lets the flavors speak. And I finally got a heavenly Flan. Why don’t more westerners see the greatness in Flan? Every time I order one all the Americans and Canadians go “ewwww”. They just don’t know what they’re missing…



On to Bodega Bouza (you can see short Insta video of it at bottom I shot just as I arrived). A tasting menu at their excellent winery restaurant with 4 flights - one Chardonnay, two blends and one Tannat:

1. The Chardonnay everyone liked a lot, perhaps with me being the one least enamored with it. 40% new oak and kind of a California style. Not bad, just not my jam.

2. Next was a 2016 Tempranillo Tannat blend. Pretty light in tone, but somehow a little bit disjointed or angular.

3. After that a 2019 Tempranillo, Merlot, Tannat blend. Everyone liked this. It had a light and elegant feel to it, with some good acid. If I recall correctly, the Merlot was in French Oak, the Tempranillo in American Oak and Tannat in neutral.

4. Finally, and presented as their masterpiece, their 100% Tannat, the 2018 Bouza Tannat B2. 100% new American Oak, which got me rather excited to try it, because I mainly use AO myself. On the nose, distinct American Oak notes and, rarely for me, I picked up that dill note people talk about. Slight coconut whiff, of course, but it was in the background. On the palate; this is a full bodied wine for sure at 15.5%. But it was elegant, I had to say. Not at all my jam on paper, but somehow it kind of works. A feminine mouthfeel despite its heft. In many ways it really reminded me of my own 2018 Tinta Cao, but with more of an AO feel. It has that tell-tale Tannat bitter tannin note, that my Tinta also shares. The table was split on if they preferred this wine over the previous, with this one winning narrowly.

Food at Bodega Bouza was amazing, I have to say. The lamb chops were out of control and some of the best I’ve ever had. I haven’t been on enough tastings in the world, but it feels like having a tasting and flight in conjunction with a meal in a restaurant owned and run at winery, is a really good combo and a bit of novel concept. More people should do that - it really works. The two would feed each other - wine would drive the food tasting, and food would drive the wine tasting. Very cool.

https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cc3rPuwlYJ9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Thanks for the notes!

Great notes / travel log. Thanks!

great post, food looks incredible and wine sounds delightful. really want to try the 2018 Bouza Tannat B2

Uruguay doesn’t get enough love (in my opinion), so it’s great to see your notes on Bouza! Their albarino is absolutely beautiful.

If you can, try to have dinner at Francis in Montevideo. The somms will definitely take care of you.

Very cool stuff!

My family had a great trip to Uruguay and Bouza a few years ago. Copulating peacocks in the vineyard!

My take here: Impressions: Buenos Aires/Montevideo Trip -- ADD: Uruguay wine tour - WINE TALK - WineBerserkers

Wow! And like Adolfo said - it does not get enough credit. I’m impressed - had some amazing wines tonight.

Went to restaurant/wine bar Bar de Vinos here in Montevideo and it was very, very good. Smaller dishes/tapas to share for all. Every dish was stellar. The wines were equally impressive. Short notes below the images, but just a few thoughts in general:

Not sure why there is such a mental barrier to South American PN’s? This is much more cold climate than any of the western states in the US. It’s not like we’ve had that much more experience with the damn grape than they have - it’s all still new world newness - yet we look at them as if they “were a snail in the salad” (to quote PG Woodhouse). Who the heck are we to talk? We’ve been making it for all but 5 minutes ourselves…

Now we are talking…
Michelini & Mufatto are making wines all over now, don’t be surprised if you find them roaming around in California
I think that their whites are spectacular, I’m particularly impressed by their 100% Chenin Blanc from Mendoza, I haven’t tried their Bierzos yet as they are quite difficult to find.

Great notes! I am a huge fan of Uruguay, including its wines. Steak at La Otra and a bottle of Pizzorno Tannat Riserva sounds good right now.

If you ever have the opportunity, find some aged Amat. It ages extremely well. I had a 1999 in 2020 that was fabulous.

I’ve had the 2018 Bouza B2, and for me it is just too big and modern. Well made and loads of fruit, but not to my style.

I wish more good Uruguayan wines got exported. All I see is Garzon which I find boring and international in style.

For anyone on this board going to Montevideo, I would highly recommend visiting Montevideo Wine Experience near the port. Very friendly and knowledgeable staff serving a wide and eclectic selection of Uruguayan wine by the glass and bottle. Start with dinner nearby at Es Mercat or El Palenque and you are going to have a very good evening.

Great post.

Also, Brazil is making some nice wines.

I see one of my favorites in the post. The Bodegas Carrau Amat. Their Ysern is also a very good wine. Artesana also makes some great wines including a unique Tannat/Merlot/Zinfandel blend.

Thanks for these fantastic posts, Adam!

The 2017 Amat I had blew my mind. On paper not my jam at all, but it was the best wine on the whole trip. Just luxurious.

Really appreciate this reporting. Always good to hear about off the beaten path wines!

I haven’t had any that recent. They are very difficult to find. When I was in Uruguay a few years ago, I brought back Amat from '98, 02, 07, and '11. All of them were excellent as were some of Carrau’s other wines.

That pic of the flan made my mouth water

Back down here and surprisingly, the other night I got a 2021 Bodega Garzon Cabernet Franc Reserva at the restaurant. Since there has been threads about CF lately, this was a nice little sample. As expected, quite herbal and lean, but with a really old world feel to it. I liked it a lot.

Yesterday was a 2021 Tannat Gran Reserva from Campotinto. Tannat always a little tricky for me and I asked the somm for the most resolved one and he brought me this. It was rather nice after it got some air and didn’t overwhelm with tannins or bitterness. Went well with a little steak.

Let’s see what tonight might bring.