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In the beginning I mentioned certifying institutions of natural wines. One of them is Tripe A. A number of producers of this style of wine created in Italy an association designed to safeguard their winemaking interests. They called this association Triple A. This partnership encompasses today wineries in Germany, Austria, Croatia, Slovenia, Spain, France, Georgia and Greece, as well as Italy.
Triple A is more a movement that an association and its name refer to the three As representing his philosophy: Agriculture, Artisans and Artists. This movement originated as opposition to the increasing standardization of wine elaboration that can be seen today in WineWorld. Increasingly, techniques used in the vineyard and in the cellar, such as synthetic products and active dry yeasts, tend to eliminate the expression of the footprint and character of the vineyard in addition to the personality of the winegrower.
“A” as in Agriculture referring to the proper relationship between the individual and the vineyard, to get healthy and mature grapes with a natural agronomic intervention, without pesticides, chemicals or added treatments external to wine grapes.
“A” as in Artisans referring to the ability to act on a viticultural and enological process that does not modify the structure of the grape and wine.
“A” as in Artists referring to the artistic sensibility of winemakers upon their own work and ideas, which gives life to a wine reflecting the terroir where it comes from.
In 2003 Luca Gargano created the manifesto representing this group. A Triple A wine comes from as little interventionist winemaking as possible. A manual preparation of the future vine should be made by massal selection, without use of chemical substances. The life cycle of the grape must be respected to obtain its physiological maturation so it becomes completely healthy. Sulfites can be used in minimum quantities only at the time of bottling. Yeasts have to be indigenous and during fermentation process, wine levels such as acidity or sugar cannot be corrected. Nor will the wine be clarified or filtered before bottling it.
We may think that these producers work on their wines hidden in a dark garage, away from prying eyes, but if we pause a bit and look at who are the members of this movement we will see that far from this prejudice there are big and important producers in the mentioned countries. Just to mention few of them, in Italy we have Arianna Occhipinti in Sicily, Denis Muntanar in Friuli, La Stoppa in Emilia-Romagna, Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo and Carlo Viglione in Barolo. In Slovenia we have Cotar and Movia. Pierre Overnoy (Jura), Château Le Puy (Bordeaux) and Huet (Loire) are some of the wineries in France. Giorgio Clai in Croatia, Chateau Musar in Lebanon, Our Wine, Zurab Topuridze and Iago Birarishvili in Georgia, Immich-Batterieberg in Germany, Weninger and Wimmer-Czemy in Austria and Barranco Oscuro and Esencia Rural in Spain.
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