Tried this new Alsace wine last night:
- les vins Pirouettes LeTuttiFrutti de Stephane AC: Vin d’Alsace (15%; Jenny&Francois Slctns/NY; 89% Auxerrois/PinotBlanc/PinotGris + 4% Muscat/7% GWT; 35-40 yr old vines; 9 mo. on fine lees; U/U; 0% SO2 added) V&Cultivated by StephaneBannwarth/Obermorschwihr; Binner&Compagnie 2018: Med.gold quite cloudy color; fairly fragrant floral/lychee slight resiny/phenolic/VM quite leesy bit pencilly/oak slight funky/natty somewhat perfumed very unusual/non-Alsace nose; soft quite rich/lush slightly bitter light honeyed/orangey some floral/lychee quite leesy bit bread dough/yeasty some pencilly/oak slight funky/fusty flavor; very long fairly soft rich/lush/bit alcoholic rather floral/lychee/grapey bit funky/earthy quite leesy bit funky/earthy interesting/complex very atypical of Alsace finish w/ a bit of wet dog fur in the aftertaste; a very unusual/eccentric expression of Alsace dominated by the leesy character and not particularly attractive because it doesn’t say Alsace. The next morning, the leesy character was much stronger and more unclean/natty character was showing. With no added SO2, this is probably a very fragile wine and it’ll probably head South in no time. $26.00 (AV)
A wee BloodyPulpit:
- ChristianBinner is a winemaker who cooperates w/ 14 different growers of Organic/BioDynamic vines for the TuttiFrutti label. Each different one identifies the grower (Stephane in this case). The wine is made in each individual grower’s cellar under Christian’s guidance. And, this being Jenny&Francois, they are all natural wines.
- Terroir??: The proponents of natural wines all tout the idea that Organic/BioDynamic grown wines are much more able to show their terroir than conventionally grown grapes. Whatta crock that idea is. Most of the natural wines I try speak more of inept winemaking & only rarely of terroir.
Tom