Annual Wine Dinner in Sydney

Been a while, and I’ve been sitting on these notes, so thought I’d better type them up.

Dinner was at Bentley, food was a star as always, Nick and team looked after us in the PDR with aplomb as per usual.

2008 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
2004 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires
1959 Marc Bredif Vouvray
2016 Domaine Roulot Clos des Boucheres Monopole
2017 Domaine Roulot Clos des Boucheres
2012 Domaine Ramonet Batard-Montrachet
2012 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet
2003 Mugnier Bonnes Mares
2013 Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares
2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos de la Roche
1986 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche
2013 Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Chambertin
1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
2005 Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva
2004 Henschke Hill of Grace
2011 Didier Dagueneau Les Jardins de Babylone

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2008 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
Really zippy and fresh, great length and persistence. Really good drive through the mid palate. Lemon squash. Super fresh. Fantastic tension, puts on a bit of weight and moves to a silky mouthfeel but the star is the acid, one of my favourite champagnes, never disappoints.

2004 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires
Cheesy and leesy on the nose. Toasty. Fresh and Vibrant. Touch of bruised apple, palate is really full and quite heavy. Green apple on the nose, parmesan, brioche, lemon, hazelnut/cashews. The chardonnay really shines through here. Noice.

2016 Domaine Roulot Clos des Boucheres Monopole
Pineapple, Passiona, tropical notes, honeysuckle, musky, lemon. Great balance with the oak and finishes with a good length. It is the sort of wine you drink when in a contemplative mood, think rainy day.

2017 Domaine Roulot Clos des Boucheres
Coconut, sweet lemons, more oak showing here, this is a big wine make no bones about it. Of course me being a fan of the old school oaky boys (done right) was right in my wheelhouse. I’d give this a few more years before touching again.

1959 Marc Bredif Vouvray
Pear and herbs, touch of mustiness and finishes a bit short, maybe a bit of taint. Orange cordial, mandarin/pithy elements. Went really well with the dish. Gradually got sweeter and sweeter and started to notice touches of marmalade and open up more. In the end a pleasure to drink at 60+ years of age.

2012 Domaine Ramonet Batard-Montrachet
Simply superb nose, so-so right. Spicy notes and ticks every box. The balance of fruit, acid, oak is sublime, You swallow it, it grabs you by the throat and takes control of your mouth and spits you out like a rag doll. Stunning.

2012 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet
Lovely sweet nose, the oak is a masterclass. Honeysuckle, I kept coming back for a smell, spectacular. One of those wines that are almost unnecessary to actually drink. Mouthfeel is amazing with a crisp line and drive. Elegant and beguiling. The BBM is all about elegance and the BM is all about power.

2013 Domaine Dujac Bonnes Mares
Holy shit, the nose of this is amazing. Sweet blackberry and stalks. Rose petal, sweet red fruits in a cornucopia of aromas. Yet it is not all about the sweet elements, there is tomato leaf, rhubarb, sesame oil and savoury elements. Tannins are grippy but not overwhelming. I always peg Dujac as producer on the bigger end of the scale in terms of wine weight, this blows this idea out of the water.

2003 Mugnier Bonnes Mares
A bit muted in comparison to the Dujac, dusty, medicinal, meaty with a touch of Brett. Bit of heat and a shortish length, seems simple in comparison to the Dujac. It’s very masculine and old school. Smoky elements start to come through with darker fruits and touches of iron, good tannins and acid. A bit like rocking up to your weekly social tennis match and seeing Federer at the other end…the Dujac wiped it.

2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos de la Roche
Rich dark fruits, lots of lift, cherry, plum a cacophony of red fruits, good length with grippy tannins and nice acid. In hindsight it kind of was like the Hill of Grace, a very well made wine, that ticked all the boxes, but seemed to miss the wow or x-factor. Hard to explain why, too clean, too normal, I dunno.

1986 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche
Dark fruited nose, lovely aromatics, some bricking. Tomato sauce. Fair bit of sediment. An almost creamy mouthfeel. Meaty, gamey, like an old Chesterfield leather chair. At 35 years old it is a fabulous wine.

2013 Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Chambertin
Absolutely stunning nose, like wow. My mouth was literally watering just nosing the glass. Holy shit. Sweet red fruits bounding out of the glass. I am truly running out of metaphors for this, there is an almost animalistic triggering happening as a result of this wine, it has reduced me to my base elements. Me Dave, me want more, give more. The fruit is like so pure and clean it feels like it should be in a Norsca ad. Smoky, sweet fruits, tannins perfectly balanced. Such an emotional wine, this is what it is all about, this is the drug, this is the rabbit hole. Under no circumstances should you drink this wine because you will be officially screwed for life.

1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage
Just so you know, I’m an unashamed Rhone Pig…. And apologies to 13 Reasons Why… So you see, that’s where the trouble began. That nose. That damn nose…. Barnyard, teetering on the edge, yet never falling over, classic Hermitage, olive, leather, sous bois, touches of vinegar (but in a good way). I could sit and smell this for hours – it just swirls and changes every time. The palate was not quite up there, much to my disappointment after ‘that nose’. The finish and carry is fantastic, iron/blood, tertiary elements on the nose as it sat in the glass. Don’t get me wrong it is a 10 nose and an 8 on the palate.

2005 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único
Classic Cabernet notes on the nose, had I not known what it was I was definitely in Bordeaux. The tannins probably give it away as they are a lot softer than you’d get from say a 1st Growth. This is, and I know it sounds a bit corny, simply a lovely drink. Supremely balanced even with the softer tannins, it seems to work really well with the fruit profile.

2004 Henschke Hill of Grace
Super spicy on the nose, white pepper, five spice, dark fruits. Rich and decadent on the palate. But, and I mean this in the nicest possible way… after all the wines before it, it was a bit like the Saturday Night Special in the missionary position from the missus to keep you quiet for the weekend. Maybe after all these wines I was looking for something with a bit of funk, something out there….something dare I say a bit less Corporate. Don’t get wrong, this on its own would be a stunningly good wine. So I’ve probably not been fair with this note. I feel bad, Un-Australian etc. But yeah, but nah.

2011 Didier Dagueneau Les Jardins de Babylone
Sweaty mango, banana, touch of oxidation, lots of acid to break it up and stop it being cloying. Tangy and sweet that hits the spot like the oranges at halftime. Super interesting flavour profile away from the usual German Auslese, and French Sauternes.

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Dayum! Excellent stuff. I’m overdue getting out to Sydney for obvious reasons (usually new years - family) - haven’t been to Bentley yet - looks great!

Really enjoyed reading that. I can’t find any 2003s that don’t exhibit the same characters as your mugnier. Pas pour moi.

Great tasting! I like the variety.

Great stuff Dave. Looks superb.

Nice one,
I find those old Bredif wines really get good after a few hours in a decanter.

Yep they are the freaks of the wine world. How something so reasonably priced can age so well is almost an anomaly in the wine world. I remember not long (5 years ago?) ago buying 1986 vintages for like $45AUD a bottle. Obviously once you start getting really old the price starts climbing.

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Thanks, Dave, for such evocative notes! Wow.
On the high end, is 2013 a sleeper vintage for red burg? Or do your notes simply reflect Rousseau and Dujac magic? In the pool I typically play in, I’ve generally avoided the vintage.
Regards,
Peter

nice notes and an interesting peek into your Saturday nights.

Wonderful wines. Your photos are also superb.

Thanks Dave - and great photos as always! I recently had a chance to try the '59 “Collection” from Bredif. Wow.

I asked other attendees from the night and one came back with this link/explanation which he thought summed it up nicely. R Pav on Instagram: "2013 Red Burgundy - A cool and difficult vintage that married classic weather with modern inventions. You may have noticed more and more positive talk about 2013 Burgundy over the past couple years, or maybe you’ve understood that the wines just aren’t very good. While the vintage may be getting slightly more popular among Burgundy lovers, I still get the sense that there are more than a few who are either broadly negative on the vintage or would just like to understand it a bit more. Sometimes I’ll read a tasting note on a 2013 red and try to interpret what the taster is thinking, “This wine is good, but it’s not supposed to be good. The vintage rating isn’t high enough.” Or a more pessimistic view I hear from time to time, “the wine has a hollow mid palate, classic 13.” While it’s true some 13’s run lean and feel lacking in fruit, we should appreciate that harvest conditions made for a narrower window for picking than most years. The weather pattern was cool and classic, and having the reputation for being very challenging to farm, having a sustained coolness of weather almost never seen over the past two decades. The growing season had a cold and rainy start, and late flowering. Late rainfall in early October complicated the harvest timing of the reds (the whites had already been picked). There was also mildew risk in leaving the grapes out too long. To put things in to context though, the harvest in 2013 pushed well in to October, in an era where August harvests have become common. But that extra hang time was key for the reds, to achieve fuller ripeness of the skins. Established growers who had the experience and luxury to wait for optimal harvest, and who were already adapted to making more concentrated, high end wines with strict sorting and selection really figured to shine in 2013. Some of those giving good reports and early returns should come as no surprise; DRC, Rousseau, Roumier, Dujac, Ponsot, among others. For me it was a basic Francois Bertheau village that took me down this rabbit hole six Decembers ago, trying to understand 2013. How could the wine in the glass be so good, while the mainstream view was so lukewarm to negative?"

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Dave,

“it was a bit like the Saturday Night Special in the missionary position from the missus to keep you quiet for the weekend.”

I know it’s early in the year, but I don’t see this line being beaten for wine description of the year!

Cheers!

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Bentley is one of the top restaurants in Sydney and the wine list is amazing as well with aged and rare cuvees, super well priced given the high taxes on foreign wines

Yep, I think Nick and the crew do a great job on the wine list. Some great wines on the list.

Very well written TNs. Wish I could to that. Needless to say about the photos for a beautiful event.

Thanks for posting the comments regarding 2013 red… [worship.gif] …I love it !!

Great descriptors in your notes. The Chave nose sounds amazing.

Christ - due to your post and read the TNs ( as I do not know much about Chave).

After reading it…I totally agree : *** the palate was not quite up there, much to my disappointment after ‘that nose’. The finish and carry is fantastic, iron/blood, tertiary elements on the nose as it sat in the glass. Don’t get me wrong it is a 10 nose and an 8 on the palate. ****