TN: 2018 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot (France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas)

• 2018 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas (12/15/2021)
  I had very high expectations of this wine based on my experiences of Allemand’s 2015s (which were absolutely gorgeous on release), and must admit that I was somewhat let down by this wine, at least on the pop and pour. This pours an inky purple and the nose makes it clear that we are talking about a very, very big vintage here. Lots of blackberries and other dark fruit here, and unfortunately there is a slight roastedness to this wine. All black fruit here; no red whatsoever. The palate was initially a bit blocky and lacked the silkiness that I always associate with Allemand, but this turned with a few hours of air for the better. It’s still not at the level of some earlier vintages of this wine unfortunately. Lots and lots of tannin, atypically so, and some slightly bitter as well. But given that this definitely improved with air, and we’re talking about a wine where the last glass was best, I’m more than willing to wait it out and see where this wine goes with 15 years under its belt. (90 pts.)

Based on the few 18 northern Rhones I’ve had I’m wondering if 2018 will be another anomaly like 2009, where Burgundy and northern Rhone really don’t line up; I think northern Rhone may end up a lot more structured than solar. Obviously not a perfect comparison, but I’m not exactly shocked that 2018 is drinking very dark on release

I don’t think you’re wrong. It was tempting to make the comparison between 2015 and 2018, but the 2015s showed far plusher on release than the 2018s (and I tasted most of the marquee names that I usually buy as soon as they were available here).

The last half-glass of the Chaillot I didn’t drink until two days later, and it was actually much better – there was more of the Allemand silkiness emerging. This will need immense cellar time and in that way it’s pretty similar to the 2018 Chave.

I didn’t taste them on release, but I reckon the closest recent vintage analogue to 2018 is probably 2009.

Thank you both for the observations. Would love to hear your take on 2018 and 2009 vs. 2013, the most recent vintage I’m familiar with that’s known for structure

I don’t know Adrian’s views, but I think of 2013 as more heterogeneous than structured. I’ve had this discussion (read: argument) with some of our more Guigal/Chapoutier favoring friends on this site who took the view that 2013 is a better vintage because the big names declared single vineyard wines in 2013 whereas 2014 was weaker because of ripeness issues. To me, some 2013s drink charmingly (Levet, notably), while others are weirdly shut down (Jamet). I don’t necessarily get structure as I do inconsistency. Somewhat similar to Burgundy where 13 is a shrug emoji of a vintage*. Some Cornas I’ve had has also been less structured in 13 than I might have anticipated. I try not to draw analogues to 13, which I think is just kind of odd.

*I’ve recently seen a theory that 2013 Burgundy was particularly unkind to stem inclusion, but as I’m not generally a fan of stems this isn’t something I can speak to.

Would like to hear views on 2012 Allemand if folks here have had. I recently traded for a few, as Allemand wines have mostly been blind acquisitions for me anyway.

edited to add: apologies for the thread drift.

My view is simple: ‘12 Allemand Reynard is one of my favorite N Rhônes of all time and it has been drinking brilliantly for a few years. I haven’t had the Chaillot but I’m confident it’s awesome.

I’ve had this wine a number of times and after about an hour of air it’s absolutely spectacular.

A few years ago I was at Republique having dinner with a friend who is not at all into wine. It happened to be an anniversary of something for me, so I came in half an hour early and ordered the 12 Reynard and put it separately on my tab and gave it an hour decant. Halfway into dinner, my friend looked at me and said “you know, I don’t normally like wine, but this is really good!”. Yup.

Dammit I just got talked into popping my 2017 Reynard and now you guys are convincing me to open my lone Reynard left, 2012.

I thought the 12 Reynard was awkward in late 2019, but the 17 Reynard is the best young Reynard I’ve had.

2013 is an entirety different vintage than 2009 or 2018. It doesn’t have the heat-driven ripeness of the others. It’s not a vintage that I’ve found particularly distinguishing. And I like the 04/08 style as much as the 09/15 style.

It was phenomenal and you were my main influencer haha.

I personally think 04 Northern Rhone is currently the best drinking vintage. I also like 07s quite a bit at the moment. Both the 04 and 07 Reynard in particular are great right now.

Apropos of this conversation, I opened a 2018 Gerard Cote Rotie yesterday (most of it is still under cap in my fridge) and I’m even more convinced 2018 is more structured than solar. The nose has quite a bit of fruit, and the front palate is fairly giving but the back palate clamps down with tannin pretty fast - much more so than 2015s ever did. 2015s were big in an enveloping lush kind of way - there was a lot of structure, but it was within a much more round profile. 2018 doesn’t have that same roundness on the finish, it moves straight to structure imho.

Incidentally, I like the 18 Gerard more than the 15, which was noticeably glossier to me (and I like the wines quite a bit).

2012s across the board in the northern rhone have become really really good (continuing the thread drift).

A recent 08 Chaillot was drinking extremely well too.

Thanks for the 2012 Reynard comments. I like the odds. 3 out of 4 positives.

I did have 2012 Gonon, Levet and Benetiere at different points before and they were all within my happy drinking zone.