A TRIBUTE DINNER FOR JIM CLENDENEN, THE MIND BEHIND AND THE HEART WITHIN
Earlier this year in May, I lost one of my dearest friends, Jim Clendenen. Jim was a one of a kind, larger than life guy who put Santa Barbara County on the world wide wine map with his iconic balanced wines and witty, gregarious, charismatic, passionate and comical persona.
He was also a brother, confidant, golf partner, co-college basketball junkie and one who I shared extra special occasions and events with over the 4 decades I was blessed to know him.
I’d attended a smaller “family” memorial event held at his ranch soon after he passed and a much larger one many weeks later at his winery. Each time, I felt in my heart I needed to do something beyond these and thanks to a good friend who coordinated using his country club and all of my set up and menu preferences, it was manifested on November 11, 2021.
The invite list was comprised of members of some of local wine groups I’m a part of plus a few of Jim’s closest friends.
The dinner was held on an outside patio of Birnam Wood Country Club in Montecito and we were graced with a truly magnificent clear, star lit evening with Venus chasing a half moon across the sky while lining up with Jupiter and Saturn.
With the stars lined up properly and the country club staff fully ready, capable and eager to serve us, 13 of us enjoyed some fine rose champagne that came in an impressive double magnum while munching on some very tasty appetizers.
I suppled all of the wines and all but the champagne were made by Jim and represented some of his finest. It was my preference to do the wine service throughout the entire evening to satisfy my desire to give and serve. Additionally, I wore my hair down as Jim and I always did when we were together in social gatherings.
Two of Jim’s closet friends were unable to come at the last minute due the failing health of one’s mother. That and the loss of Jim gave us reason enough to pause and reflect and be thankful for all of those who are near and dear to us including all of those we are sitting with at our table. After this reflective toast, we were treated to some perfectly timed courses that paired beautifully with the wines.
The Menu and wine pairings:
Appetizers
Strawberry and Ricotta Crostini with wildflower honey
Duet peach and raspberry burrata on a grilled banquette
Phyllo tart with goat cheese, pistachio and pears
Double Magnum of champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose- I selected this bubbly as it was one of Jim`s favs; this super large, impressive bottle showcased some of the expected notes that I’ve become very fond of for this typically wondrous rose over many, many years; it gave fresh and lightly sweetened strawberry and red cherry fruit along with a frothy, feel good mousse to seal the deal.
First course
Buttermilk fried quail,
dates, almonds, arugula, raspberry, goat cheese
Magnum of 2000 ABC Nuits-Blanches au Bouge XX Anniversary Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay- omg, this was in such a great place and got better with time as if Jim was inside the bottle and orchestrating delivery of its treasures; it had a gold yellow color; the nose was redolent of honeyed golden delicious apple and lemon zest which continued on to be joined by accents of caramel and butterscotch; it had a creamy texture, was full bodied and had layers unfolding throughout all of the time in the glass over the course of the evening. Jim would have been proud.
Second course
Smoked pork belly
Apricot glaze, parsnip ,watercress, vanilla and apple
The next two wines were poured simultaneously and it offered a perfect comparison of Jim’s creation to celebrate his two children {which he initiated in the year they were conceived, 94 for Isabell and 98 for Knox}:
Magnum of 2000 Au Bon Climat Pinot Noir Isabelle-this is made from the best barrels of fruit sourced from Bien Nacido, Sanford & Benedict, Talley Rincon, and Mt. Carmel; our bottle exuded grace and charm and really personified the feminine aspect of daughter Isabelle; it had a medium body, a mild and yet fulfilling taste profile of spicy red and black cherry and a soft, smooth and easy texture while maintaining perfect balance; I loved it.
Magnum of 2000 Au Bon Climat Knox Alexander Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir- almost immediately and even evidenced by the darker color, it was obvious this was a much bigger wine and as such exemplified the masculine aspect of son Knox; it was full bodied and offered a wondrous fruit profile that included super spicy and cinnamon accented black raspberry and blackberry, also while being in ideal balance.
Third course
Duet of duck
Duck confit goat cheese and cherry tart, seared breast, thyme risotto, grilled broccolini
2005 Au Bon Climat Larmes de Grappe Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir- 13.5% alc; this was Jim’s most expensive release and only made in a few years starting with 2001, then 2005 and I believe 2008, plus 2016 and 2017; the original release was sold for $150 and Jim often commented “where else can you get Grand Cru red Burgundy for $150?” I bought a lot. Our bottle was magnificent. It was seriously complex with intense aromas and a spice laden taste profile that just never wanted to quit, in fact, it expanded and morphed on throughout the entire evening until there was none left in the glass; this is a whole cluster fermented wine made from grapes where the stems completely lignified and has all of the structure for longevity, which in my opinion, has at least another 10+ years to go before reaching its apogee; and yes, the hallmark for all of the wines to this point is their wonderful state of balance.
Fourth course
Saint Andre, petite basque, cambozola honey, spiced nuts assortment of dried fruit and breads
2005 Clendenen Family Vineyards Rancho La Cuna Santa Barbara County Syrah/ Viognier- I loved every bottle I’ve had of this wine which is made with 90% Syrah/ 10% Viognier; typically, I’ve called this wine more Northern Rhone like with its pepper and spice laden black fruit; on this night, our bottle was laden uncharacteristically with Brett, the 4-ethylphenol, barnyard type; even then, it offered some redeeming qualities, but I knew very clearly it did not have the best this has to offer.
2005 Clendenen Family Vineyards Bricco Buon Natalie Santa Maria Valley Nebbiolo- few know about the fabulous Italian varietals Jim has made over the years, especially those released under his label, Il Podere Dell`Olivos; his Teroldego, Aleatico, Dolcetto and Barbera were extra special as is this Nebbiolo released under the CFV label which Jim initiated in 2000; Jim held this wine for I believe at least 7-8 years before releasing it and as the tannins have softened, it’s just now starting to express some of its amazing attributes; it’s very fruit forward at this point with ripe blackberry fruit most evident with enhancement from violets, lavender and red cherry; it was rich, soft and smooth.
I feel very blessed to have known Jim. We shared many passions in common and delighted in experiencing them together. I find that I’m already including him vicariously in some of those since he passed as I just did while watching an UCLA basketball game, his team, and in drinking through all of his wines on this night. I envisioned him doing his side glanced right nostril nosing of each wine, his steel trap memory of all of the specific vintage and winemaking details with a nod of approval and a Robert Parker directed “eat your heart out’ comment.
For me, this tribute dinner was the least I could do to honor and give thanks for a special spirit. I love and miss you brother.
Cheers,
Blake
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