Found in a retail shop that mostly sells mass produced stuff with a few gems here and there. How long has this been sitting on the shelf? The shop worker didn’t know, but assured me I could return the bottle if it was no good. CT reviews were promising, the bottle looked to be in decent shape, it had a good fill, so I decided to take a gamble. It paid off!
Hefty amount of sediment- most of it stays behind but I found it impossible to separate out the very fine stuff. Ah well, didn’t seem to negatively impact the experience at all. Ruby core, bricking on the edge, color concentration is light for a Napa Cab, though within the norm for something 20 yrs old, I would think.
The nose is mature but still with a good amount of fruit- very ripe raspberry, dried red cherry, sweet berry preserves. There are tertiary aromas of leather, damp earth, and milk chocolate. Perfect 50/50 of fruitiness and aged characteristics.
Medium bodied in the mouth. Texture is very smooth- the little tannins that remain are very fine grained. Acidity is gentle, comes in a single initial wave and dissipates in a few seconds. The flavors lead off with the fruit- raspberries and blackberries that are very ripe. Sucking in a little air really brings out some lovely flavors that I associate with L Bank Bordeaux more than Napa: graphite, cedar, flint. The finish emphasizes the aged leather-y flavors.
Overall, this was a nice find! I would not have sought this out on my own, but glad I stumbled across it. To my palate, this is in a perfect spot in its evolution. It will continue to be delicious for those who enjoy aged wine, but the balance here between youth and maturity is irresistible for me.
Have loved the Togni wines over the years. That is a good find Noah. Your tasting note is a reminder why I bought quite a few in the '90s. Well balanced and not hedonistic. Here’s a review my spouse put in her blog 10 years ago…EnoViti: 1995 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Still have some of the 1995s. Maybe should revisit since we are 10 years in since the last review.
Just drank the 1999 blind alongside 1985 Mouton and 1996 Pichon-Lalande with friends in Burgundy, and for many it was the wine of the lunch! It’s quite a bit more youthful than the 2000. Such good wines.
I love this story. I am bringing a bottle of the 1992 Togni to a wine lunch in London this coming weekend. The two gentlemen joining us have almost no experience with or access to California wines, let alone nicely aged bottles from the great classic producers like Togni. I am hoping for as gratifying a response as you got, William!
Funnily enough, a few years ago when I visited a friend in London, I also took a bottle of Togni to show him what our region can produce! He brought a crazy amount of takeaway Fish & Chips (including fried pickles?!) to pair with it…
The 1997 Togni has been one of the best wines I have ever had from California. Apart from Ridge, the only California wine I buy consistently. Interestingly, there is less vintage variation than any other top producer I know.
Agreed! We might end up bringing the 1994 instead, as we only have one 1992 left and I’m not sure I want to drink it immediately after an international flight. The 94 is no slouch.
Thanks for all the responses. You know, I believe there was also a single bottle of the 1998 sitting on the shelf next to the 2000. I think they were charging $120 or something like that. These responses are making me think that maybe I should go back and pick that one up as well.
I have only had the 1998 once but found it to be disappointing. I generally like the vintage and have loved other vintages of Togni so had high hopes. I don’t like to draw conclusions from a single bottle as it could have just been bottle variation but at $120 per bottle I’d be cautious.
Ah- good to know. I’m not super familiar with Togni, so I picked the 2000 over 1998 bc of the more favorable Cellar Tracker reviews. How did anyone ever buy wine before the internet?
Well you saw my CT note, probably, on the 1998 from 2016:
Enticing aromas of blackberry, graphite, and wild flowers present immediately upon opening. In the mouth, this is a relatively lean framed wine, though it is balanced and complete, with a lingering finish. Dark chocolate and some spicy notes join the mature fruit, and fill the mouth will a satisfying roundness. Though not heavy or full-bodied, this wine gives an impression of richness. Changed very little in the decanter or in the glass over a 3 hour period, making us think this is right at the sweet spot of maturity. Don’t think the fruit is there for the long long haul - I’d drink in the next 3 years or so. A real pleasure and a solid value from this mostly scorned vintage. Shows that the “off” vintages from this period are often the best drinking wines and the best food wines, as they are more restrained and balanced next to their bigger and more exuberant brethren from '97.
I had another in 2018 that was in the same vein - classic, expressive cabernet. Not a powerhouse, just lovely.
I opened the 1999 Togni along with a 1995 Pahlmeyer Red (very much open for business) and 1994 Phelps Insignia (a bit more restrained, but quite good) a couple of weekends ago. The latter pair were among my favorite wines several years ago when I started to go down the rabbit hole. My style preferences have shifted a bit over time in the AFWE direction, but I still really like both wines. That said, the Togni was at least as good and stylistically more what I look for. There was just the right amount of green pepper to make the wine really interesting without drowning out the fruit.
Reporting back on this event - the 1994 Togni showed very well at St John in London last week. We stood the bottle up in our hotel immediately upon arrival Friday, and double decanted off sediment before heading to lunch Saturday. Our friends and the staff at the restaurant, wine lovers all, were astounded at how balanced and beautiful it was, how lush the fruit was without being overtly ripe. A deft hand at the tiller for sure. It was such a pleasure to share this wine with people who know wine, but have limited access to the great California classics of any vintage, let alone something with nearly 30 years of age. I’m so lucky that my spouse came to our marriage with a dowry like this.
A few years ago I had Togni 1994, wine was very good, even outstanding but I was a bit dissapointed taking into consider the hype of 1994.
I have also 2010 but I think drinking window should begin from 2030 at least…
I do not know why Togni in 90’s did not become “cult” label as a few other producers but this has allowed to keep prices very resonable till even today. In Europe Togni 2012 can be bought ca. 120 Euro which is shockingly low price compares to similiar pedigree producers.
Thanks for this note. I’ve been sitting on a 94 Togni, even standing it up for wine tastings that kept getting cancelled. Maybe I will just enjoy it myself with my partner!
