Parker Board stalwart Charlie Neuhaus and his wife Tricia spend their summers in Maine. Last night we got together at Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster in South Freeport Maine (or SO. FREE. ME., as they call it).
HL&L is a deeply classic lobster shack. Charlie and Tricia had lobster (duh). My guest had a fish basket (haddock). I had scallops. The table had shrimp and onion rings.
Charlie and I each brought two wines. Charlie loves wine with bottle age. So do I. I brought two whites (one young, one pre-teen), he brought reds at 12 and 20 years. ‘Good’ would be a serious understatement!
2018 Sandar & Hem Chardonnay, Mindego Ridge - The board raves about this new producer, I bought a mixed 4-pack. I normally wouldn’t open anything from the SCM at three years, but was anxious to try this.
Well, it was a puzzle. It got to the shack near room temperature, the aromas were an open panoply of cactus flower, cilantro and hazelnut. On the palate it was surprisingly rich and soft, but with chilling it developed more backbone. It did not have either the conifer or lime elements I associate with SCM Chardonnay, but it was a good wine that got better the longer it was open. The long finish is really promising. Rated 87 on opening, 89 later, up to 4 points of improvement likely in 2 - 7 years.
I import the other white, so no note.
Charlie’s reds were impressive!
2009 Chateau des Tours Cotes du Rhone ‘Reserve’ - This was spritzy on opening! Charlie shook it up and released the gas. After that, it was a ripe, voluptuous beauty in glorious middle age. Rich, verging but not crossing the line into overripe, this had tons of Grenache black raspberry and garrigue character. Perhaps not the wine and food match made in heaven, it worked surprisingly well with the onion rings and the shrimp with cocktail sauce. It screamed ‘drink me!’. Rated 91.5.
2001 Daniel Schuster Omihi Hills Vineyard Selection - This is a New Zealand Pinot Noir from an absurdly obscure producer than may no longer be in business. It is great wine. Healthy crimson color for 20 year Pinot. The aromas are incredibly fresh and amazingly subtle… black cherry, a hint of ginger, a hint of roses, a touch of mineral, nothing remotely earthy or old. The palate is light to medium in body, tannins fully resolved, acidity present but muted. What is impressive is the seamlessness and harmony of this wine. It is subtle but complete, every element in place, just sheer beauty. Clearly identifiable as Pinot Noir, I could not have begun to place it. Definitely not Burgundy, or anywhere in California, or Oregon, or Patagonia. The best NZ Pinot I’ve ever had. Rated 94.5.
Dan Kravitz