TN 2016 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos Clos des Hospices dans Les Clos

First time with this wine. I’m a big fan of Chablis. So given the high Cellar Tracker scores, super terroir, and dear price (north of $100), my expectations were high. The short version is that the wine was good but didn’t meet expectations.

I was immediately dismayed when I saw that the cork was nearly more than 2/3 soaked through, with a small track of wine going all the way up the side to the top. I have no idea what happened here, but the cork looks like something off a 30+ yr old bottle, not something that’s 5 yrs old. So I’m not sure how representative my particular bottle is. Disappointing that such a premium bottle had such a garbage closure.

That being said, the wine is good. A bit darker in appearance and more advanced in aroma and flavor than I would expect for a top-tier 5 yr old Chablis, but still very tasty. Probably that damn cork… The aromas and flavors are mostly classic Chablis with lemon zest, grapefruit pith, white flowers, and lots of chalk and limestone. There is a bit of creaminess that speaks to at least some malolactic fermentation. To me, it tastes like there is a touch of oak as well, which is less typical of Chablis, but not unheard of for Grand Crus especially. On the finish are some cider-y notes (faint but definitely there) that indicate a small level of oxidation.

I liked this wine, I really did. I’d happily drink it again, but I wouldn’t buy it for the $100+ that it goes for. Not sure what role the cork played here, so I’m not passing judgements about anything other than my particular bottle. I really wish producers of wines that cost so much damn money would switch to DIAM!!! If this wine were bottled under DIAM I’d consider a repurchase, otherwise fuggedaboudit.

Too bad about the bottle condition. I’ve tasted this on release in several vintages. At that point, I usually think it’s the best in the lineup but not much better than the regular Les Clos. Valmur can look like quite a value in comparison, too. I’ve never thought this bottling was quite worth the upcharge, but I could see getting it once in a while for the experience.

There definitely is more oak in this bottling than in their regular les clos. I generally prefer their regular over this bottling because of that. Unfortunately, I’ve had a lot of premox with them–my 2010 les clos were all mostly advanced. I have 2 or three bottles of the 2012 Hospices that I need to try soon.

That indicates seepage likely due to heat. How much that affects the wine is still up for debate.