ALL 9 GEVREY GRAND CRUS - Straits Clan, Singapore (11/7/2018)
This was a really interesting exercise, and a testament to the depths of some of our friends’ cellars, to be able to put together a dinner encompassing all 9 of Gevrey-Chambertin’s vineyards across one single vintage. I should say that one particular bottle - the Chapelle Chambertin - eluded us. It had to be sourced from a bottle shop in Hong Kong and hand carried back (on the very evening of the dinner no less) in the end.
I cannot quite remember why we had a ringer (in the Lafon Volnay), or why the Mazoyeres was thrown in with Latricieres rather than with the Charmes, which would have been more natural; not sure why we put the Chapelle together with the Grotto either, although that may have been something to do with our resident MW telling us that the topology or geology was similar.
On a side note, this was also a good opportunity to assess the shape of the 2002 vintage some 16 years in. I have always loved the 2002 reds. At their best, they are classically shaped Burgundies in the very best sense of the word - pure, transparent wines, with delicious juicy fruit, yet also showing really nice depth and balance, and very fine tannin structures. The issue I have had is that many of the 2002s, especially on the Grand Cru level, have been asleep for some years - sometimes showing as obdurate, rather opaque or one-dimensional shadows or their former selves. Unfortunately, this tight, sleepwalking state seemed to have afflicted some of the bottles on the night. Thankfully, the quality of the wines were such that we had some really nice bottles even then.
Notes aside tough, this was a smashing night, and a very interesting experience indeed. If I learnt anything through tasting all nine terroirs together, it was that the quality of the maker still matters most in Burgundy.
2002 BUBBLES TO START
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2002 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill - France, Champagne
Popped and poured, this was lovely and rather surprisingly easy-going for a relatively young Churchill, but somehow just a little step behind a bottle I had a couple of years back, which had the benefit of some breathing before service. The nose here had classic notes of cream, white meat and a touch of earth alongside big white-fruited aromas and a waft of toasty brioche. The palate was big, ripe and fairly forward, with ripe red apple flavours, a touch of sweet lemonade, and some creamy notes, all couched in a gentle mousse and decent, if not exactly bright acidity. Tons of strength, lots of length - a bit obvious in its heft and girth, but this was a delicious powerhouse. I think it will get better as it mellows with time as well. I would love to try this in say 5-6 years’ time. (93 pts.) -
2002 Bruno Paillard Champagne Nec Plus Ultra - France, Champagne
Perhaps a half-step behind a nice bottle of 2002 Winston Churchill on the night, but this was nevertheless a nice bottle in its own right. The nose had an interestingly oxidative edge to it, with an umami character showing through its aromas of white meat and earth, alongside sweeter yellow fruit notes. The palate was almost surprisingly dry and structure after that, with vigorous mousse, and bright acidity wrapped around a powerful core of yellow-fruited melons, kumquats, and a little shade of liquered notes. In spite of its power though, what stood out for me most was how linear it was and great a sense of definition the wine had, all the way into a really well-cut finished. Certainly sparer, more focused and, conversely, less generously effusive than the Winston Churchill on the night; but dare I say it - this may have been the Champagne with more character to it. With the bottle we had, I would say leave it aside for a few more years before broaching again. It should integrate better and develop a bit more complexity. (92 pts.)
LATRICIERES + MAZOYERES
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2002 Nicolas Potel Latricières-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
A pretty good showing without being mind-blowing. This had a nice nose, classic Latricieres to me - with funky smells of meat and earth, some steely, ferrous mineral, and then a nice lift of red fruit. An attractive bouquet. The palate had a nice charm to it as well, with soft cherry fruit lined with warm spice and mineral, all wrapped in firm, fine-boned tannins and bright acidity as tracing their way into a slightly bittersweet finish. The spice component then just grew and grew towards the end of the evening. Very pleasant and enjoyable, elegant even, even if not absolutely compelling. (92 pts.) -
2002 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru
Not a bad wine, but certainly not a great Grand Cru, especially for a strong vintage like 2002. The nose was tight and funky, with lots of meat and earth at the fore, some stony mineral, and then just some dark cherry fruit barely peeking out from amidst the more savoury, funky smells. It thankfully opened up with time, starting to show more dark fruited tones floating over that earthy base. The palate was hard as nails, not thinly fruited by any means, but coming across a bit lean and mean, with a layer of dark fruit draped over really firm bones of tannins, acidity, and then a line of spice and mineral, all trailing away into a rather hard finish. Not great at first, but this did open-up with time and food to show a touch more velvety fruit over its muscular core. In the end though, a wine that was decent, but far from great. Disappointing. (90 pts.)
THE RINGER
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2002 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Santenots-Du-Milieu - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
A real shift in gear from the tight and rather less than generous Taupenot Merme Mazoyeres that preceded it - this still smelt of sweet vanilla oak alongside a touch of earth, and then more lifted notes of violets and blackberries, all infused with a real blast of exotic spice. Really expressive and attractive at first, and then mellowing a little bit with time until it reached a nice equilibrium of fruit, flowers and earthy notes. Very nice. The palate was velvety, polished and powerful, showing tons of depth in its deep dark cherries and berries seasoned with touches of spice. Very solid, very integrated, with a lovely wholeness to its sweet fruit, with balanced acidity and smooth tannins all gliding into a firm, lengthy finish of earthy mineral and spice. A very solid wine. The ringer on the night, but certainly no slouch amongst the numerous Gevrey Grand Cru. (92 pts.)
MAZIS
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2002 Louis Jadot Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Clearly corked at first, but the cardboardiness blew off somewhat with time to show dark cherries, spice, a bit of earth and a nice bit of mineral. Nice if not for the corkiness. The palate had a really nice shape, with melting acidity and silky tannins alongside juicy blue fruited flavours - unfortunately all just a bit scalped by a smidgen of TCA. Enjoyable, but flawed. NR (flawed) -
2002 Faiveley Mazis-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Not bad, but very old-school Faiveley in its obdurate stubbornness - this needs plenty of time yet. The nose was characteristically whole cluster, with brambly herb, spice, and a hint of oak wafting through a core of limpid red cherry aromas. Nice stuff. The palate was tight though, very tight in fact - there was a good depth of red cherry fruit, and a nice sense of transparency, but what comes up most is the sheer muscular structure, with its fine, but chewy tannins and firm acidity dominating the midpalate, all the way into a cleaner finish lined with a bit of bittersweet herb. Plenty of promise, but oh so tight. 10 years to go easily. (92 pts.)
RUCHOTTES
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2002 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Head and shoulders above most of the other wines on the night - this was very nice indeed. It had such an expressive nose, full of fresh sour cherries, a kiss of freshly stalked flowers, and then a lovely waft of fragrant spice, all patted down with little bits of earth. So nice. The palate was absolutely lovely too. Soft, silky, but mouth-filling, with pure, transparent notes of red cherries, a touch of florals, and more of that gently beguiling spiciness, all showing a wonderfully effortless persistence. What a lovely mouth-feel this had to go along with a beautifully balanced deliciousness. A brilliant bottle. Deceptively gentle, yet with a lovely length and depth to it. This was about as complete a wine as I have had in a long time. It was showing well enough now, but if there was any complain, it would be that this was not the most complex of wines - I do think it will continue to develop in the bottle for quite a few years though. (94 pts.) -
2002 Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A different animal from the 2002 Roumier Ruchottes on the same flight, but really nice in its own way. The nose here was rather spicier, a bit dirtier and earthier as well, but with a nice touch of strawberries and cherries running on behind, and a waft of bacony meatiness at this edges. Very attractive. The palate was closer to the Roumier, with a nice elegance to it, showing silky tannins and soft acidity draped over a nice core of dark cherries and berries, these seasoned with a nice bit of warm spice that pulled away into an earthy, meaty end. Really delicious and satisfying, and very easy to drink. Lovely stuff, showing very nicely tonight. (93 pts.)
GRIOTTE + CHAPELLE
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2002 Domaine René Leclerc Griotte-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
Really enjoyable - this was probably the one wine that seemed to be drinking at absolute peak tonight. In fact, that it was drinking so nicely actually gave this a real leg-up over some of the bigger names on the night. The nose was a nice mix of spice, earth and good red fruited aromas. Attractive, but it was on the palate where the wine showed its mettle. A touch rustic in feel, but really very yummy, with flavours of red cherries, earth, and a gentle spiciness, all unfolding in a nicely integrated whole. Lovely balanced and drinkability thought too, all the way into a full, finish that feinted to fade at first, but then coming back with a gentle length. The tannins could be finer, and the whole wine a bit more polished, but all-in-all, this was a charming and yummy wine, drinking quite at peak now. (93 pts.) -
2002 Domaine Ponsot Griotte-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
Nice, but only emerging from its shell about now I think - this is one of those Ponsots that really needs to be caught in a proper window to be anything near rewarding. I would leave it aside for a few years yet. On the night, it certainly started very nicely, but shut down quite fast. The nose was a little reserved, showing in a nice, but subtle melange of green floral stalks, sweet red cherries and berries, and just that touch of earth along with a remnant of sweet oak. The palate had a sense of quiet power to it, with well-integrated flavours of dark cherries, berries, earth and spice riding on a bed of fine tannins and good acidity. It too seemed a little subtle and very tightly packed though, and maybe lacking a touch of charm now; certainly when compared to the far more ready 2002 Rene Leclerc Griotte. This was a pretty good wine - try again in 6-8 years. (92 pts.) -
2002 Pascal Lachaux Chapelle-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Decent, but a little anonymous. It had a nice nose - sweet cherries, a bit of earth and brambly herb, a
of florals and then some of exotic spice - quite pretty. The palate was again quite pleasant - soft, velvety, well-balanced, with dark cherries seasoned with a bit of spice and hint of herb at the finish. Pretty polished, certainly well-made, and goes well with food, but apart from that nothing really stood out. This somehow just felt a little simple and a bit soulless. (91 pts.)
CHARMES
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2002 Domaine Joseph Roty Charmes-Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A disappointing showing. Not that this was a bad wine - I thought it was decently good when served blind. Stacked against its rarity and reputation though, this came disappointingly short. It had a deep earthy nose, full of savoury notes and maybe a touch of wet furry funk, all riding alongside rich dark cherry fruit aromas seasoned with a bit of wood spice. Not bad. The palate felt very tight, with a touch of dry, grippy tannins that framed the wine’s deep flavours of dark cherry along with a decent touch of acidity. There were quite exotic notes of dried flowers, ginger and sprigs of mint in there as well, all resolving into a longish finish with a twist of bittersweet bramble in there. That exotic tone was something I noticed in previous bottles of Roty’s Charmes TVV as well, and they added up to lend the wine a nice sense of complexity and character. What knocked it down slightly though was that touch of dry woodiness that spoke of rather heavy-handed winemaking. Something that seems a bit superfluous in a lovely, transparent vintage like 2002. The wine certainly needs time yet, one wonders if it will always remain a touch drying though. (92 pts.) -
2002 Bernard Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
By some distance the better of the pair of 2002 Charmes-Chambertin on the night (the other being the highly-rated Roty Tres Vielles Vignes), this was a very nice wine indeed. It had a lovely lifted nose of wild cherries and blueberries playing against a base of more umami mushroom and earth notes. Really compelling stuff. I thought the palate still needed a bit more time in the bottle, but there was already such a classy nobility on this that it called out to be drank, with firm but really nicely shaped tannins and beautifully balanced acidity framing pure notes of dark cherries, earth and just that bit of spice. Noble, strong and complete - a great advertisement for everything good about the 2002 vintage. This was lovely stuff that transcended the Charmes-Chambertin terroir. Still years, if not decades to go though; it certainly has the structure to age for just about forever. (94 pts.)
CHAMBERTIN + CLOS DE BEZE
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2002 Domaine Prieuré Roch Chambertin-Clos de Bèze - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
A pretty good Clos de Beze, and certainly a pleasure to drink, but this was another wine on the night that struggled a bit under the weight of its recent price and reputation. Served blind, it was easy to pick out that typical Prieure Roch nose, with its whole cluster herbiness, sappy red fruit, and burst of exotic spice, all edged by a little twang of green aromas. Very attractive, but this had the same issue as almost every other Prieure Roch wine I have had over the years - it smelt more of Prieure Roch than it did of Gevrey. There was just perhaps a smidgen more terroir character on palate thankfully - here, the wine had rich, red fruited character, with a velvety mouthful of cherries and berries backed up by a solid structure of juicy acidity, and firm nobly-shaped tannins. All very fine, and actually surprisingly transparent, which is not something you always get with Prieure Roch. There was a touch of something woody buried under the structure, but such was the lovely juicy purity and lush velvety fruit that one quickly forgave that. Plenty of Grand Cru strength too, pulling the wine all the way into a long, cheekily satisfying finish. All in all, a good Clos de Beze without quite being truly outstanding. While drinking decently well on the day, I think this could have done with a 2-3 more years in the bottle. (93 pts.) -
2002 Domaine Trapet (Jean et Jean-Louis) Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
A pretty solid Chambertin, without quite being spectacular. The nose was nicely attractive in a rather masculine fashion, with dusty earth, herb and warmer sous bois notes floating around a core of blueberry aromas. Nice. There was a good bit of muscle and strength on the palate - a true Chambertin in that aspect - with deep flavours of blueberries shading into dark cherry territory, and then some of that earthiness picked up on the nose, all carried on a solid, but still elegantly constructed structure of fine tannins and juicy citrus acidity. It finished with a touch of earth and a gentle spiciness. Quite a complete, powerful wine, with an elegant, quiet strength to it. A very classic Chambertin. No harm drinking now, but it really does feel that it needs time - I would just forget about it in the cellar for another 4-5 years at least. (93 pts.)
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