With all these solar vintages of late I think I had to some degree forgotten what Chablis can be when there is no extra fat and the acidity is just through the roof. Having said that I think my only prior experience with Moreau-Naudet (2011 Fôrets) was quite difference, although obviously very different vintages.
What I find strange is that the label here was not the typical graphic M-N label. I had bought it at Fromagerie Berthaut in Époisses - perhaps a special bottling for them?
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2014 Moreau-Naudet & Fils Chablis 1er Cru Montmains - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (24.7.2021)
Super tight and sharply citrusy at first, it definitely needed some air to become even moderately approachable. Very yellow toned on the nose with zesty lemon-driven fruit, leesy notes and iodine. Not exactly complex but still manages to captivate with its purity, brightness and intensity. On the palate on the richer side of medium-bodied with a strong acidic core. There is something airy about it but more than anything it is incredibly intense and nervous. You definitely get the ”licking a battery” sensation here on the finish that is just massively tangy. Like a true 2014 this feels at least 10 years too young but somehow you can’t help but appreciate how determined and unforgiving it is. For many drinking it as it is would be borderline masochistic but somehow I find it weirdly comforting to experience a super steely and tense low ABV Chablis like this today when one seriously has to wonder whether ”classic vintages” are a thing of the past in Burgundy. I think this one could have benefited from some extended time in the barrel but I believe eventually it will be very nice.
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