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2017 Amélie Vuillet & Sébastien Jacques Vin de France Vin Dzi - France, Vin de France (25.2.2021)
To my understanding, this is a 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin from Montigny-lès-Arsures, Jura. Macerated with the skins for 10 days. Aged for 12 months in used barriques. Vinified without any sulfites. Lot 17-01, 13% alcohol.
Slightly hazy, pale lemon-yellow color. Sweetish, somewhat volatile and slightly leesy nose with aromas of lemon juice, some nail polish VA, a little bit of sharp green apple, light peach candy tones, a hint of sappy greenness and a touch of acetic tang. Although the wine feels rather natty and shows somewhat elevated levels of VA, the nose doesn’t come across as unpleasant or disagreeable. The wine is ripe, somewhat natty and a bit volatile on the palate with flavors of fresh red apples, some leesy notes, a little bit of cantaloupe, light lifted notes of sweet ethyl acetate (nail polish remover) and a hint of ripe white fruit. The acidity feels only medium or moderately high, which feels surprisingly low for the style. The finish is fresh and juicy with medium-long and moderately volatile flavors of ripe red apples, some wild funky tones, a little bit of sweet’n’tart citrus fruit, light tangy notes of salinity, a lifted hint of nail polish and a touch of cantaloupe.
At first the wine felt somewhat generic natty wine, but despite its somewhat noticeable volatile character - mainly the sweet notes of ethyl acetate - the wine is quite balanced and relatively enjoyable, even quite drinkable. However, the acidity feels a bit low here and the wine could really use a bit more freshness and sense of structure in that department. All in all, this is a natural wine you’ll drink a glass happily, but probably not a half bottle. The style is a bit straightforward, however, and I doubt the wine will benefit much from further aging. Feels overpriced for the quality at 29,80€. (84 pts.)
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2017 Amélie Vuillet & Sébastien Jacques Pif - France, Vin de France (25.2.2021)
Mainly Poulsard with some Gamay, Pinot Noir and Trousseau in the mix. Macerated with the skins for a month. Bottled unfined, unfiltered, unsulfited. Lot Pi17-01. 13% alcohol.
Luminous, very translucent and slightly evolved, medium-deep strawberry red color. Heavily bretty nose with aromas of stable floor and horse sweat, some sappy herbal tones, a little bit of sweet dark forest fruit and a hint of Band-Aid. The wine is light-bodied, funky and for a moment subtly spritzy on the palate with flavors of merde, bretty leathery notes, some peppery spice, light sweet notes of strawberries and ripe blackberries, a little bit of fresh red cherry and a hint of phenolic bitterness. Although moderately high in acidity, the wine lacks some necessary firmness - which is only emphasized by the almost total lack of tannins. The finish is gentle, ripe and somewhat sweet-toned with quite long and rather round flavors of rather pronounced tar candy character, some savory phenolic spice, a little bit of anise, light sweet notes of ripe dark berries, a little bit of strawberry, a bretty hint of barnyard and a touch of acetic roughness.
Despite its outrageously bretty and slightly acetic nature, this is a surprisingly fun and tasty effort. Nothing too thrilling and perhaps slightly too much on the natty side, but nothing particularly disagreeable. Could use some tannins and a bit more acidity, but otherwise nothing alarming here. I doubt the wine will improve here, so better to drink sooner than later. An OK bistro wine - but definitely not for people who can’t stand funky natural wines. Feels overpriced for the quality at 29,80€. (85 pts.)
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2018 Amélie Vuillet & Sébastien Jacques Vin de France Meli Melo - France, Vin de France (25.2.2021)
Some sources say this is a blend of Trousseau (50%), Chardonnay (25%), Savagnin (25%), others say it is Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Savagnin and Trousseau in equal proportions. Go figure. Aged for 12 months, bottled unfined, unfiltered, unsulfited. Lot MM18-01, 13% alcohol.
Pale, fully translucent and subtly evolved light ruby color with a wide, completely colorless rim. Restrained yet somewhat fragrant nose with aromas of ripe raspberries and wild strawberries, some red apple, light juicy notes of white peach, a little bit leesy character, funky hints of lifted VA and brett and a touch of stony minerality. The nose has a somewhat dirty, natty edge to it, but as a whole feels enjoyably nuanced and quite attractive. The wine is lively, firm and slightly wild on the palate with a light-to-medium body and bright flavors of ripe black raspberries, some phenolic spice, light bitter nuances, a little bit of farmhouse funk, a hint of spicy red apple and a cool touch of stony minerality. The bright, high acidity lends good sense of freshness and acidity to the wine, but there is also a hint of tannic grip that brings some welcome firmness to the mouthfeel. The finish is somewhat dull and even slightly dirty, which makes me wonder if it’s just bretty funk, or if there is a slightest hint of mousiness starting to push through? Beyond that, the aftertaste is long and subtly grippy with flavors of dry phenolic spice and some bitterness, a little bit of leathery funk, light crunchy notes of red apple and fresh white fruits, a hint of stony minerality and a touch of brambly raspberry.
A fun, fresh and tasty little pale red wine (or a clarete) where the substantial amount of white grapes lend wonderful sense of freshness and minerality to the darker-toned flavors. The overall feel is very drinkable, but the wine shows some enjoyably gritty character as well. The only little minus here is the aftertaste, which feels more “dirty” than just “funky”, stripping some of the enjoyment and dropping a point or two from the final score. Nevertheless, this is a nice and juicy effort that drinks really well now and most likely will keep good for some years more. Nevertheless, the overall feel is quite funky, so I heartily suggest to drink the wine soon after opening the crown cap - just to not let the possible mousiness enough time and air for it to emerge. Perhaps a bit expensive for the quality at 29,80€. (86 pts.)
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2018 Arnaud & Malou Greiner La Cart’Ouche - France, Vin de France (25.2.2021)
Mainly Pinot Noir (approx. 80%) with Trousseau and Poulsard. Semi-carbonic fermentation. Aged for 12 months, bottled unfined, unfiltered, unsulfited. No obvious vintage in the label, just lot number “LC18”. 13% alcohol.
Dark, somewhat translucent and still rather youthful black cherry color. Somewhat restrained and savory nose with aromas of brambly black raspberries, some leathery tones, a little bit of fresh cherry, light meaty tones and a hint of smoke. Despite not being particularly expressive, the nose feels still quite fragrant and attractive. Juicy, clean and silky yet firm texture on the palate with a medium body and vibrant flavors of ripe dark forest fruits, some sweet black cherries, light meaty tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light bretty notes of leathery funk and earth and a lifted touch of nail polish VA. High in acidity with a nicely firm yet friendly tannic grip. The finish is savory, gently grippy and quite long with pretty complex flavors of ripe cranberries, some brambly black raspberries, a little bit of leathery funk and bretty barnyard, light notes of meaty umami, a ferrous hint of blood and a subtly acetic touch of VA.
A tasty Jura red that is both playful and quite serious at the same time. Although the wine has subtly natty and bretty overtones, the overall feel is nevertheless quite clean and harmonious. The wine doesn’t feel like it is built for the long haul, but it drinks really well right now and might actually improve for a year or a few. A nice combination of bright and fresh yet savory and structured character. Perhaps a bit on the pricey side for the quality at 26,15€, but not excessively so. (88 pts.)
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2016 Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Côtes du Jura La Gravière - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (25.2.2021)
A négociant-wine, made with purchased Chardonnay fruit sourced from a vineyard planted in 1949. Aged for approximately 30 months on the lees in old, neutral oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and unsulfited. 13% alcohol.
Pale straw yellow color. Aromas of fresh apple, some ripe white fruits, light notes of hay, a little bit of almond-driven nuttiness, a hint of waxy richness suggesting long aging on the lees and a woolly touch of lanolin. The wine is dry, intense and almost electric on the palate with focused flavors of tart green apple and sharp lemony citrus fruit, some woolly lanolin, a little bit of waxy richness and leesy creaminess, light nutty notes of slivered almonds, a tangy hint of salinity and a touch of hay. The racy acidity lends great intensity and sense of structure to the wine, but there is good sense of concentration from the prolonged oak aging to serve as a magnificent counterpoint to the bracing acidity. The finish is long, crisp and mouth-cleansing with rather pronounced salinity followed by an aftertaste of lemony citrus fruit, some tart green apple, light steely mineral tones, a little bit of almond-driven nuttiness and a woolly hint of lanolin.
A clean, sophisticated and very precise naturalist Chardonnay that really doesn’t show any weird, funky and natty qualities despite the lack of SO2. There are subtle nuances of wool and nuttiness that suggest that the wine isn’t young anymore, but nevertheless the overall feel is remarkably fresh and youthful, suggesting great potential for future development. Needs a bit time to open up, so decanting recommended. Overall the wine feels slightly weightier and more complex than the 2016 Ganevat Les Cèdres that was tasted alongside. Priced according to its quality at 41,40€. (92 pts.)
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2016 Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat Côtes du Jura Les Cedres - France, Jura, Côtes du Jura (25.2.2021)
A négociant-wine, made with purchased Chardonnay fruit sourced from a 80-yo vineyard. Aged for approximately 30 months on the lees in old, neutral oak barrels. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and unsulfited. 13% alcohol.
Pale straw yellow appearance; seems to be very slightly fizzy in the glass. Youthful, fragrant and quite crisp aromas of fresh golden apples, some underripe pear, a little bit of leesy richness, light stony mineral tones and a hint of happy herbal character. The wine is dry, moderately ripe and playful on the palate with a medium body and a very slightly spritzy feel. Vibrant and subtly sweet-toned flavors of ripe lemony citrus fruits, some floral notes of white flowers, a little bit of steely minerality, light tangy notes of green apples, a hint of white peach and a touch of fresh apple. The high acidity lends great sense of energy and structure to the wine. With its bright, fragrant and slightly sweet-toned fruit, lithe body and racy acidity the wine reminds me more of a dry Kabinett Riesling than a Jura Chardonnay. The finish is long, clean and very Riesling-like with bright flavors of ripe citrus fruits, some floral tones, a little bit of peachy stone fruit, light stony mineral tones and a hint of sour apple candy.
A very youthful, tasty and remarkably Riesling-like Jura Chardonnay that seems to be bottled with a hint of CO2 to protect the wine from oxidation, making it both appear and feel slightly effervescent for a short while before the bubbles blow off. With its very youthful and playful nature the wine feels more fun than serious at the moment, but nevertheless promises lots of potential for future development. Compared to the 2016 La Gravière that was tasted alongside, this feels slightly more linear and less complex in style, but also more open for business at the moment. Lovely now and will get even better with age. Priced according to its quality at 38,10€. (91 pts.)
Pale, rather neutral whitish-yellow color. Ripe yet somewhat restrained nose with aromas of sweet Golden Delicious apple, some waxy tones, a little bit of cool, stony minerality, light leesy nuances of yeast and hints of floral overtones. The wine is quite intense, moderately concentrated and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with flavors of ripe white fruits, some spicy red apple, light mineral notes of salt lick, a little bit of chalky bitterness and pithy pomelo-driven citrus fruit, a hint of waxy richness and a sweet touch of ripe cantaloupe. Moderately high in acidity. Overall the wine feels balanced, juicy yet firm and intense in its somewhat understated, semi-neutral character. The finish is clean, somewhat neutral and quite intense with rather long flavors of fresh golden apples, some ripe white fruit, light salty notes, a little bit of stony minerality and a hint of waxy richness.
A balanced, tasty and still rather youthful Chardonnay. I’ve grown used to Melon à Queue Rouge making quite expressive and flashy wines, so the more understated and slightly neutral character of this wine came as a sort of surprise. Nevertheless, the wine isn’t thin or underwhelming in any way, as it shows great sense of intensity and understated richness along with great sense of balance and nice structure. I guess the wine needs at least a handful of years more before it starts to really hit its drinking window; and most likely the wine calls for many, many more years before it is at its peak. Delightful and very promising stuff that will continue to improve for years. Probably best if drunk in the future rather than now. Great value at 22,80€. (91 pts.)
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2019 Caveau de Bacchus Poulsard Arbois Cuvée des Docteurs - France, Jura, Arbois (25.2.2021)
The wine does not mention the grape variety, but to my understanding, all the Cuvée des Geologues bottlings are Trousseau and this single Cuvée des Docteurs is 100% Poulsard. At least the lot number Lot19PL suggests this as well. Fermented spontaneously, macerated with the skins for 3 weeks, aged for 12-18 months in old Alsatian oak foudres. 12,5% alcohol.
Pale, fully translucent and subtly pink-hued ruby red color; looks like a very deep and dark rosé rather than a red wine. Savory, somewhat spicy and slightly reductive nose with slightly skunky reductive notes of flatulence and stinky feet followed by aromas of sweet wild strawberries, some earth and a little bit of brambly raspberry. The nose cleans up slowly as the reduction blows off, but it does take time. The wine is lively, dry and crunchy on the palate with a light-to-medium body and subtly reductive flavors of brambly raspberries, some strawberry-flavored candies, a little bit of stony minerality, light reductive notes of gunpowder smoke and a hint of earth. The structure relies on the fresh, high acidity, although the medium-minus tannins grip gently on the gums as well. The overall impression is very youthful, but not primary. The finish is dry, fresh and mineral with flavors of stony minerality, brambly raspberries, some tart lingonberries, a little bit of wild strawberry, light reductive notes of gunpowder and flint smoke, a hint of earth and a floral touch of violets.
A very tasty, serious and even surprisingly structured effort for a Poulsard - I can’t remember the previous time when I would’ve noticed this much (or at all) tannic grip in a Poulsard! Very true to the variety, apart from the gently grippy tannins. Still very youthful in style, although the wine doesn’t feel particularly primary - mainly just reductive. Very drinkable already, if decanted first, just to blow off the reduction. However, this feels like a rare Poulsard that could actually benefit from cellaring. I wouldn’t be surprised if this wine was even much better after 8-10 more years! Fantastic stuff. (93 pts.)
Medium-deep, moderately translucent and quite dark raspberry red color. Dry, dark-toned nose with aromas of black raspberries blackberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of crunchy cranberry, light sappy notes, a hint of feral gamey character and a touch of clayey earth. Although somewhat fragrant, there is a certain air of dullness in the nose as well. The wine is dry, crunchy and quite high-strung on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of tart crowberries, stony minerality, some licorice root, a little bit of brambly raspberry, light crunchy notes cranberries and slightly bitter chokeberries and a hint of earth. The high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins make the wine feel enjoyably structured and serious. The finish is long and savory with dry flavors of licorice, some sour cherry bitterness, a little bit of stony minerality, light crunchy notes of crowberries, a hint of earth and a touch of brambly raspberry. The tannins make the wine end on a somewhat grippy note.
Although the nose felt a bit dull to me - especially at first - this turned out to be a very serious and impressive Trousseau with lots of depth, grit and structure. Perhaps a bit restrained at the moment, but feels like it is built to age. Wonderfully tightly-knit old-school style here. Very lovely, highly recommended. Just let the wine breathe in a decanter so it gets to open enough. (94 pts.)
Medium-deep, moderately translucent and rather dark raspberry red color with a youthful, subtly purplish hue. Compared to the 2018 Cuvée des Géologues Poussot that was tasted alongside, this wine both looks and feels more youthful with a more open and slightly sweeter nose, exhibiting somewhat primary notes of ripe blueberries and boysenberries, some crunchy cranberry tones, a little bit of ripe black raspberry, light stony mineral tones, a feral hint of game and a touch of earth. The wine is ripe, juicy and rather fruit-forward with quite youthful flavors of blueberry-driven forest fruits, some ripe boysenberry tones, a little bit of licorice, light dark-toned notes of fresh dark plums and black cherries, a hint of earth and a touch of peppery spice. The overall feel is balanced and textural with moderately high acidity and gently grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is ripe and juicy yet dry with subtly grippy tannins and moderately long flavors of blueberries, red licorice, some juicy raspberries, a little bit of sweet black cherry, light tart notes of crunchy cranberries and a hint of earth.
A surprisingly ripe and fruity Trousseau. Compared to the dry, savory and positively stern 2018 Cuvée des Géologues Poussot, this wine felt more like a fruit-forward crowdpleaser, thanks to its sweeter overall character, lush primary fruit and slightly softer texture. The wine is still good, but nevertheless a bit too soft and sweet-toned for my preference regarding Jura Trousseau. I hope it’s just the primary fruit that is speaking here and the wine will come together better once it ages and loses some of that baby fat and primary fruit. It seems like there is a solid wine somewhere there underneath, but it is just lost beneath the candied fruit esters now. Let the wine age for 3-5 years before opening a bottle. (89 pts.)
Surprisingly youthful, pale and fully translucent ruby color and a wide, colorless rim - looks more like a Poulsard than a Trousseau, almost like a dark rosé. Somewhat restrained yet very nuanced nose with aromas of sweet forest fruits, some floral tones, a little bit of licorice root, light mineral notes of stone dust, fresh fruity hints of brambly raspberries and crunchy crowberries and a perfumed touch of floral lift. Lovely. The wine is dry, fresh and balanced on the palate with a medium body and relaxed flavors of ripe dark berries, some licorice root, a little bit of stony minerality, light fruity notes of wild strawberries and tart red plums, a hint of sun-baked earth and a touch of sour cherry bitterness. The structure relies more on the rather high acidity, as the ripe, textural tannins lend only very little grip and coat the gums quite gently. The finish is dry, savory and very long with bright flavors of crunchy cranberries and crowberries, some stony mineral tones, a little bit of earth, light sappy notes of brambly raspberries and a ferrous hint of blood. The tannins lend a gently grippy texture to the aftertaste.
A very attractive, fine-tuned and serious Trousseau. Surprisingly harmonious and vibrant effort for a wine from the disastrous 2017 vintage. This is definitely not a big nor flashy wine, but not underwhelming either - although the wine lacks the vibrancy and intensity of the Trousseaus from the surrounding vintages. Nevertheless, a lovely and thoroughly delicious effort that is very true to the variety. Excellent balance here. Drinking really well now and will keep if not evolve for a decade more. Recommended. (92 pts.)
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2004 Poderi Luigi Einaudi Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (25.2.2021)
Macerated with the skins for 2-3 weeks, aged in barriques (40-50% new). 14% alcohol. Slow-oxed for 18 hrs.
Surprisingly deep and dark blackish cherry color that permits relatively little light through. Shows a bit more evolved maroon hue towards the rim. Fragrant, dark-toned and rather sweetish nose with aromas of toasted oak, some wizened black cherry, light cocoa notes of mocha oak, a little bit of dark plummy fruit, a hint of mint chocolate and a touch of baking spice. the wine is dry, firm and medium-bodied on the palate with intense and quite ripe flavors of wizened sour cherries, some toasty oak spice, light caramel tones, a little bit of ripe cranberry, evolved hints of raisins and dried dates and a ferrous touch of blood. The overall feel is quite muscular and structured, thanks to the high acidity and firm, grippy tannins. The finish is dry, grippy and rather oaky with flavors of developed raisiny fruit, toasty mocha oak, some ripe cranberry tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness, light sanguine tones, a hint of tar and a touch of gravelly minerality.
Structurally this was a balanced and harmonious, albeit rather tightly-knit effort, but even at 16 years of age, the rather heavy-handed oak influence dominates the flavor palette, obfuscating many of the finer nuances here. Structure-wise this is easily recognizable as a Nebbiolo, but aromatically not so much - the heavily toasted, chocolatey oak tones are the most obvious character here, followed by sweet, evolved notes of raisins and dried dates, making this wine feel quite developed for its age. All in all, this wine offers good, firm Nebbiolo structure, but aromatically it is still remarkably “international” in style, lacking the classical Nebbiolo aromatics I look for in a Barolo. I wonder whether this was a prematurely evolved bottle or if it was representative of the vintage - and if it was, whether the more modern style of this wine has resulted in this very evolved quality. I would’ve expected a 2004 Barolo to feel much younger than this. All in all, I’m not particularly thrilled - not really what I’d look for in a Barolo. (87 pts.)
Posted from CellarTracker
