Been a good week, kid grilling some ribeyes, needed something up to the task. Pulled this 2008 Rôteboeuf out of curiosity, recently grabbed a few. Admittedly, I always avoided this Chateau just based on the stuff I have read, but William Kelley’s write-up on it, coupled with various posts here, got me to buy some vintages. The 1999 was spectacular.
This 2008 both needs more time, and, has me a bit perplexed. It’s got some really cool things going on. Silky palate. Exotic nose. Notable range of some red fruits. Excellent acidic structure. An intriguing bitter chocolate note. The downside: oak. Like lots of it. At first I had an immediate thought of a young Ridge Cabernet. Yea, this is French oak, not American. The vanilla is quite pronounced. A kiss of coconut suntan lotion and Starbucks dark French roast as well. Very subtle raisin note on the darker fruits.
Overall this is not really my jam at the moment. Paired well with grilled rare ribeye, but enjoying a third glass afterwards, and it’s just too much for my country palate. Saving 1/3 of the bottle for tomorrow to see what it shows. I think that I call balls and strikes - sports metaphor for Todd - so will circle back.
In this case, I think you’re just seeing the difference nine years can make. The wines have been 100% new, Tonnellerie Radoux, since 1985; and the toast profile didn’t alter between 1999 and 2008.
I suspect vintage variations can also effect perceptions of things like oak, but glad to hear your thoughts that this will better integrate. I do not recall the 99 having such pronounced notes of oak. It’s not generally my experience that a heavy oak presence early actually integrates, maybe just tones down, but I will definitely give the wine the benefit of the doubt, especially since I dropped some serious coin on them, lol. These are definitely some pretty hedonistic wines for my palate!
Looking at 2014 right now, is this a “buy”? Given this wine’s style, I’m not sure that I would grab ripe years like 2015 and 2018.
Despite that 2008 is not my fav. vintage I suppose it’ s too young. I had marvallous T.Roteboeuf 1988,89,90,95,98,99 … leaving alone younger vintages. Oak will integrate v.well … fine producer!
I picked up a couple of bottles 2004 and 2011 Tertre Roteboeuf back before prices went wild and have found the wine very distinctive and interesting. They deliberately make a rich, sweet, soft, hedonistic, and concentrated wine. But it is also balanced and harmonious, has a spicy/earthy quality that gives complexity, and doesn’t feel “over-extracted”, Parkerized or like an imitation of California. It almost feels like an Amarone version of Bordeaux at times, if that makes sense. I like it but it’s a very particular style and definitely isn’t what you want if you are looking for a more angular or herbal classic version of Bordeaux.
I would look even harder at the likes of 2012, 2007, given your preferences.
As for oak integration, there are many variables, and I agree that one has to be cautious. In the case of Mitjaville, the style/philosophy hasn’t changed in thirty years, so I think you can meaningfully extrapolate from the evolution of the wines of the 1990s to project how the wines of the 2000s will evolve. For example, the 2009 Roc de Cambes is really beginning to integrate its wood in the last year or two and now comes across much as the 2000 did six or seven years ago. I have seen this happen enough times not to be concerned about how the wines show young and to simply systematically forget them for 20 years. That is why, when you asked about Tertre, I recommended you try the 1999!
Count me in the camp of Tertre Roteboeuf/ Roc de Cambes/ Domaine de Cambes/ Domaine l’ Aurage (from his son) lovers.
I actually served the Domaine de Cambes on Double Magnums at my wedding!
Their wines are usually one of the most aromatically expressive (in Bordeaux), because François Mitjaville believes wine ages on aroma and not on tannins. He believes it is because of his terroir and the gentle extraction at up to 32 degrees Celsius.
The grilled red meat/ ristretto (of the highest pedigree) quality of the Tertre Roteboeuf, I really love. The new oak is definitely there, but normally the “juice” of the wine itself can handle the oak just fine!
If you ever get the chance to visit François Mitjaville at Tertre Roteboeuf, you will find an elegant 18th-century farmhouse and see his vineyards which look like gardens. His cellar is not polished, but beautiful and charming. Please be sure to plan longer for a visit here, because he is a very amiable, erudite man who takes his time and normally has a very good read on the vintage…
As a Burgundy lover, this is one of the few notable Bdx for me as I really enjoyed the 2006 a couple years back, enough to buy a few more. It’s the only Bordeaux I’ve bought in the last few years. The wines savory notes and overall balance and complexity really impressed me. Definitely a good pair for steak.
Surprised to hear on the 08’ hopefully better luck with more air or cellar time.
(Couldn’t figure whether to put this in the 00 BDX thread or here…) I recently opened the 00 Roc de Cambes and it was drinking beautifully…
“PnP then tasted over a couple days out of 4oz Boston rounds. Dense coloration, with a little pencil on the nose. A little coiled at first, time in the glass unwinds a wine with some fine grained wood tannins still hanging around. Full bodied with dark fruits, and certainly some anise. Nice balance of acidity. This has held up very well. 85% Merlot 15% Cab Sauv”
It is also worth noting that the 2015 Tertre Roteboeuf is an absolutely massive but compelling wine. There is so much raw material that the idea of it being solar didn’t even enter my analysis. “This towering wine is indeed superlative yet its structure does leave the door open for early consumption. It carries a dark profile of coffee, cinnamon, boysenberry and black cherry confit but the tannins are fine enough that it avoids feeling stiff. Just a massive and complex red of the highest quality. If I had only one bottle, I would open on its 20th birthday. 80% merlot 20% cab franc”
Thanks for sharing that, really cool notes. I had very similar thoughts about the 2015 Château Ausone that I had about a month ago. It was a monumental wine.
Was a bit under the weather so skipped drinking the remainder last night. Tonight, the wood tones have softened and the grilled meat tones have come to the fore. This is a pretty beefy wine, not pun intended. Significant mouth presence but not heavy given the firm acids.
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