TN: Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole 2014-1995 vertical

Andrea Franchetti might be best known for his Passopisciaro winery in Etna, but before his move to Sicily he was making Bordeaux-inspired wines in Tuscany at his Tenuta di Trinoro estate since the early-mid 1990’s.

The winery is located in the Orcia valley, right next to Mt. Amiata, close to where the borders of Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio meet - a region better known perhaps for their chestnuts than wine. The winery is best known for the eponymous red wine that is made in a more-or-less Right Bank style, i.e. composed mainly of Cabernet Franc and Merlot with a little bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. While Franchetti has broadened the Trinoro lineup with varietal and single-vineyard wines and a white wine, the core range has always consisted of two wines: Tenuta di Trinoro, i.e. the 1st label, and Le Cupole, the 2nd label. Tenuta di Trinoro is supposed to be - unsurprisingly - the more serious wine of the two, built to age, while Le Cupole is supposed to be a wine built in a style quite similar to the grand vin, but in a lighter, softer and more accessible fashion.

In January we had a vertical tasting where we tasted a good deal of different Le Cupole vintages, including the very first vintage of Le Cupole ever made, 1995. Stark differences here between the vintages: some were very well-made, balanced and surprisingly well built in regard to aging, while others were just soft, flabby and dull. It was quite hard to find a red thread running through the wines, seeing how very different the vintages were from each other. The best vintages were remarkably good, but as the quality seemed to be very variable (mainly in regard to fruit ripeness - you can see how my scores are all over the place), I really can’t say this Super-Tuscan 2nd label managed to win me over.
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Before the tasting proper we had a blind bottle, which turned out to be a Crushpad Bordeaux, commissioned and blended by an acquaintance of mine.
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1 Like
  • 2010 Crushpad St Töppö Quarante-Deux - France, Bordeaux (25.1.2021)
    This Quarante-Deux is known also as “Cuvée Rive Droite”, i.e. made more in the style of the Right Bank, instead of Ne Panique Pas, which is made more in the style of the Left Bank. A blend of Merlot from St. Émilion satellites (60%), Cabernet Franc from St Émilion (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon from left bank (20%). Aged for 18 months in what was supposed to be a used oak barrique, although I’m told to take this with a pinch of salt, because often the wines are aged in whatever vessels happen to be available. 14% alcohol.

Deep, still quite youthful and rather opaque black cherry color. Ripe, juicy and slightly sweet-toned nose with aromas of sweet cherries and dark plums, some blueberries, light toasty notes of mocha oak, a little bit of evolved wizened blackcurrant character, a hint of graphite and a touch of elderberry. The wine is ripe, juicy and quite dense on the palate with a rather full body and surprisingly oak-driven taste. Flavors of sweet black cherries, tart red plums, some juicy blueberry and blackcurrant tones, a little bit of chocolatey mocha oak, light bitter notes of extracted oak spice, a hint of licorice and a touch of graphite. Overall the wine feels quite rich and supple, although the bright, high acidity lends good intensity and sense of freshness to the wine. The ripe tannins feel quite gentle and relatively resolved, contributing quite little to the structure and more to the texture. The long finish is ripe, juicy and gently grippy with rich flavors of sweet red plums, some ripe cherries, light extracted notes of woody bitterness and toasty oak spice, a little bit of crunchy blackcurrant, a ferrous hint of blood and a touch of graphite.

A quite nice, rich and supple Bordeaux, but also one that was surprisingly oak-driven for the normally more restrained style of St. Töppö. Although the wine shows the great acidity typical of 2010, the tannins were surprisingly resolved and smooth, resulting in a wine of great intensity yet enjoyably silky texture. However, the overall feel is still very youthful, and seeing how the oak tends to have quite a bit of dominance on the flavor palette, I’d say this wine still needs more years before it is showing its best. Structurally drinking nicely now, but aromatically still years away from its apogee. Let this wait - and expect the score to go up with age. (89 pts.)

  • 2014 Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (25.1.2021)
    A blend of Merlot (48%), Cabernet Franc (42%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). Harvested in 36 separate pickings from 29 September until 28 October. Fermented in stainless steel vats for 12 days, aged for 8 months in French oak barriques (1, 2 and 3 years old), followed by another 11 months in cement tanks. Bottled in March 2016. 14% alcohol. Total production 55,500 bottles.

Still relatively youthful, somewhat translucent and quite deep and dark ruby red color. Somewhat restrained and understated nose with aromas of earth, fresh dark berries, some graphite, light blackcurrant tones and a hint of alcohol. The wine feels youthful, savory and quite acid-driven on the palate with a medium-plus body and flavors of redcurrants, blood, some brambly raspberries, a little bit of fresh red plum, a hint of sour cherry bitterness and a woody touch of pencil shavings. The overall feel is enjoyably dry, firm and quite structured, thanks to the high acidity and medium tannins that slowly pile up on the gums. The finish is quite dry, somewhat grippy and moderately long with flavors of fresh redcurrants and ripe lingonberries, some woody notes of pencil shavings, light crunchy notes of fresh red plums and blackcurrants, a little bit of sour sour berry bitterness, a hint of licorice root and a lactic touch of strawberry yogurt.

A surprisingly fresh, balanced and enjoyable effort for the lousy vintage - even though the nose was quite underwhelming and didn’t promise much. Otherwise this was an enjoyable faux-Bdx Super-Tuscan. Nothing too memorable, but nothing disappointing either. Going still very strong and while drinking well now, most likely will continue to improve for a good handful of years - at least until the subtly lactic touch from the aftertaste disappears. All in all, quite nice. (88 pts.)

  • 2012 Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (25.1.2021)
    Cabernet Franc (55%), Merlot (27%), Cabernet Sauvignon (17%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Fermented in stainless steel vats for 12 days. MLF for 1/3 of the wine in the vats in contact with skins before racking and for 2/3 in French oak barriques of 2nd, 3rd and 4th use. Aged for 8 months in French oak barriques of 2nd, 3rd and 4th use, followed by another 10 months in concrete tanks. Bottled in March 2014. 14,5% alcohol. Total production 55,000 bottles.

Deep, dark and somewhat opaque ruby red color - looks slightly darker than the vintage 2014 that was tasted alongside. Ripe, sweetish and quite sunny nose with bold, juicy aromas of soft black cherries, some strawberries, light blackcurrant tones, a little bit of alcohol and a hint of saddle leather. The wine is ripe, full-bodied and somewhat extracted on the palate with somewhat sweet-toned yet slightly restrained flavors of sunny dark fruits, juicy blackcurrants, some stewed plummy fruit, light woody notes of cigar box, a little bit of graphite and a hint of jammy red fruits. The acidity feels moderately high, the powdery tannins are very ripe and mellow and the alcohol lends a little bit of heat to the palate. The juicy finish is quite long, somewhat warm and subtly grippy with fruit-forward flavors of sweet red plums and ripe black cherries, some juicy blackcurrants, a little bit of jammy strawberry, light notes of graphite, a hint of tobacco and a sweet touch of cooked bell pepper.

Feels more like a generic Bordeaux from a hot vintage rather than anything particularly Super-Tuscan - there is really nothing “super” or “Tuscan” here. The wine is juicy, silky and very accessible, but also a bit too ripe and thus rather anonymous in style. It really calls for more structure to balance the ripe, soft and sweet-toned fruit flavors. Probably might become more interesting once the fruit-forward flavors develop some tertiary complexity to them, but then again, the structure really doesn’t seem to call for any further cellaring. The wine drinks pretty well right now and doesn’t really seem to promise much in regard to aging potential. All in all, a pleasant and accessible Bordeaux blend, but nothing special to write home about. (86 pts.)

  • 2007 Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (25.1.2021)
    A blend of Cabernet Franc (40%), Merlot (30%), Cabernet Sauvignon (22%) and Petit Verdot (8%). Harvested in 54 separate pickings and vinifications, all grapes fully destemmed, fermented in 4000-liter stainless steel tanks for 15 days, then aged for another 3 days on the lees before racking the wine off the skins. MLF for 1/3 of the wine in the vats in contact with skins before racking and and for 2/3 in French oak barriques of 2nd, 3rd and 4th use. Aged for 8 months in French oak barriques of 2nd, 3rd and 4th use, followed by another 10 months in concrete tanks. Bottled unfiltered in March 2009. 13,5%. Total production 85,000 bottles. Drank from a magnum.

Dark, moderately translucent blood-red color. Juicy, clean and fruity nose with seductive, sweet-toned aromas of juicy blackcurrants and ripe red plums, some sweet red cherries, light autumnal notes of damp forest, a little bit of blueberry, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of raw meat. The wine is juicy, ripe and quite dense on the palate with a rather full body and fruit-forward flavors of fresh dark plums, ripe blueberries and blackcurrants, some licorice root, light notes of tobacco, a woody hint of pencil shavings and an autumnal touch of leafy yet not herbaceous character. The overall feel is enjoyably savory, rather high in acidity and quite firm, thanks to the moderately grippy medium-plus tannins. The finish is long, juicy and gently grippy with flavors of ripe blueberries and cherries, some fresh forest fruits, light plummy tones, a little bit of graphite, a hint of pipe tobacco and a touch of meaty umami. The tannins make the wine end on a somewhat astringent yet not aggressive nor austere note.

A very lovely, pure and harmonious effort. Probably the best vintage of Le Cupole this side of the millennium. Although the wine is modeled after Bordeaux wines, the wine really doesn’t feel like a classic Bordeaux. Fortunately it doesn’t feel like a super-polished, extracted and markedly modern faux-Bordeaux or Super-Tuscan either. It is built more like an old school Brunello or Chianti Classico, but aromatically feels closer to Bordeaux than Tuscany. At least this magnum was in a very lovely shape and most likely will continue to improve for years more, although it is drinking wonderfully right now. I’m not usually a big fan of Super-Tuscan reds but this was really nice. Recommended. (93 pts.)

  • 2006 Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (25.1.2021)
    A blend of Cabernet Franc (47%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (13,5%) and Petit Verdot (9,5%) from vineyards aged 16 years. Aged for 8 months in French barriques and 10 months in concrete tanks. Bottled in March 2008. 14,5% alcohol. Total production 8000 cases.

Somewhat developed and moderately translucent pomegranate color. Evolved and sweetish but also slightly aldehydic nose with a pungent, subtly green-toned note of Fine Sherry-like acetaldehyde. Aromas of sorrel and green apple slices with a little bit of pruney dark fruit in the background. Feels soft, mellow and somewhat dull on the palate with a full body and slightly flat flavors of aldehydic greenness, some pruney dark fruits and ripe blackcurrants, a little bit of Sun Maid raisins, light licorice tones and a ferrous hint of blood. The wine is silky smooth but also lacking in structure, thanks to the medium acidity and soft, fully resolved tannins. The finish is very slightly grippy and medium in lengthy with tired, tertiary flavors of prunes and raisins, some aldehydic tang and green apple tones, a little bit of earth, light bitter notes of sour cherries and a sanguine hint of iron.

A surprisingly soft and rather disappointing effort for a legendary 2006 vintage. Either we had a poor bottle or then this vintage was never meant to age - and seeing how lackluster notes the wines has in CT, I suspect the latter. I wonder if the grapes have suffered and turned overripe during the growth cycle or before the harvest, so the wine has turned out to be a rather mediocre effort? At least to me the wine offers very little if anything anymore and I doubt this has been particularly interesting for quite some time. This is miles and miles away from the terrific 2007 that was tasted alongside. Color me unimpressed. (76 pts.)

  • 2004 Tenuta di Trinoro Le Cupole Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (25.1.2021)
    According to Andrea Franchetti the vines were still recovering from the scorching 2003, so the production was rather small and perhaps not of the best quality. 14% alcohol.

Translucent syrupy brown color with a slightly reddish-maroon core. Old, raisiny nose with very tertiary aromas of prunes, coffee, cardboard and soy sauce. Feels way past the peak. The wine is medium-bodied, sinewy and very tertiary on the palate with old, slightly sweet-toned flavors of pronounced cardboard and oxidative nuttiness, followed by raisiny dark fruits, some coffee, a little bit of prune and a hint of soy sauce. High in acidity with almost nonexistent tannins. The finish is short and flat with tertiary flavors of sweet raisiny fruit and Tawny Port-ish nuttiness, some watery coffee tones, a little bit of cardboard, a hint of pruney dark fruit and a touch of dried black cherry.

Well past its peak and rather heavily oxidized. Based on how there are subtly fruity notes still left in the wine, it doesn’t feel like the cork’s seal has been compromised - this wine just wasn’t built to age. I doubt there are any bottles of Le Cupole 2004 left that would be in prime condition. If you happen to have any bottles in your cellar, I highly recommend to check how they are drinking now - at least this bottle was already undrinkable. NR (flawed)

Deep, somewhat evolved and moderately opaque maroon color. Big, sweetish and subtly oxidative nose with aromas of wizened black cherries, some pruney tones, a little bit of soy sauce, light leathery tones, a hint of allspice, a touch of strawberry and a musty whiff of something dusty. The wine feels somewhat dull and lacking in flavor, even showing a musty hint of possibly TCA upon the first attack, then following it by rather understated flavors of wizened dark fruits, some earthy tones, a little bit of prune, light savory spicy notes and a hint of jammy red fruit. The overall feel is quite full-bodied with a rich, meaty texture, moderately high acidity and almost nonexistent tannins. The finish is dry and somewhat understated with dull, medium-long flavors of gamey meat, some earth, a little bit of earth, light pruney tones, a hint of wizened dark berries and an MSG-like hint of umami.

A rather nondescript, dull and understated vintage of Le Cupole with a rather ripe and jammy overall feel. I wonder whether the wine is just tired and the earthy tones start to show a bit too much as the fruit fades away, or if the wine is just very mildly corked. It doesn’t really give much at this point. However, be it in corked or not, it feels age hasn’t been that graceful to this wine. A rather mediocre effort. Leaving it unrated due to it being impossible to tell whether the wine is ok or not.

Deep, slightly evolved and rather opaque blackish-red color with a maroon hue. Rich, ripe and somewhat sweetish nose with aromas of strawberry liqueur, some jammy dark fruits, light raspberry marmalade tones, a little bit of dried figs, a boozy hint of alcohol, a tertiary touch of beef jerky and a whiff of burnt hair. The wine feels big, chewy and slightly sweet-toned on the palate with a full body and rather lush flavors of strawberry jam, some dried figs, a little bit of cooked redcurrants, light leathery tones, a hint of grape marmalade and an earthy, tertiary touch of roasted spices. The overall feel is silky smooth but also rather soft, thanks to the medium acidity and rather gently grippy medium-minus tannins. The finish is juicy, rather warm and gently grippy with bold, evolved and quite lengthy flavors of overripe black cherries, some strawberry liqueur, a little bit of boozy alcohol, light blackcurrant jam tones, a hint of dried figs and a touch of meaty umami.

A surprisingly big, ripe and weighty effort - a very big vintage of Le Cupole by all accounts. Doesn’t feel as evolved as many surrounding vintages of Le Cupole, so in that sense the wine is in a great shape. However, the overall feel is very noticeably ripe - even a bit too much so - and rather soft, so even though the wine might be still relatively young for its age, the structure doesn’t call for any further aging. What it would need, though, is more acidity and less alcohol. I wasn’t particularly fond of this vintage; even though it was in a good phase right now, it was stylistically a bit too ripe, soft and heavy for my palate. However, many other people in the tasting enjoyed the wine very much, so in that sense this must be a great wine and you can take my TN with a pinch of salt. If you want a good, old Le Cupole that is drinking well, this is for you. If you want a classic, balanced and harmonious Super-Tuscan with a nice, sinewy feel, this might be a bit too soft, big and sweet for you - at least it was for me. (87 pts.)

Deep, moderately evolved and somewhat opaque maroon color. The nose differs noticeably from the typical Le Cupole aromas with a somewhat rustic and slightly smoky streak of brett, lending a somewhat phenolic and slightly leathery quality to the evolved aromas of wizened blackcurrants, autumnal leaves, some savory woody notes of oak, light tertiary notes of soy sauce, a little bit of horsey animal character and a sweeter hint of raisiny fruit. The wine is silky, quite dense and enjoyably firm on the palate with a medium body and quite savory flavors of leathery brett and barnyard, some wizened blackcurrant tones, a little bit of meaty umami, light savory notes of woody spice, a sweet hint of pruney fruit and a touch of toasted exotic spices. The overall feel is still very structured with the high acidity and rather grippy, grainy tannins that feel quite assertive yet not aggressive. The finish is long, moderately grippy and wonderfully complex with layered flavors of wizened blackcurrants and sweeter pruney tones, a little bit of leathery funk, light bretty notes of barnyard and smoky phenolic character, a hint of savory wood spice and an umami touch of gamey meat.

A very impressively structured, enjoyably sinewy and wonderfully complex vintage of Le Cupole - feels much more characterful than any of the younger vintages I’ve tasted. There seems to be a healthy dose of brett here, but it doesn’t really dominate at any point, but instead lends a nice, rustic edge to the otherwise more polished fruit character. The structure here is very Tuscan, making me think more of Brunello or Chianti Classico than the typically gentle and silky style of Le Cupole. All in all, a fine wine with great harmony between the structure and the fruit. Drinks nicely now, but I’d say this can not just keep but also improve for at least a handful of years more. Easily one of the best vintages of Le Cupole I’ve tasted. (94 pts.)

Developed, medium-translucent pomegranate red color with some bricking. Developed, somewhat sweetish and slightly meaty nose with aromas of wizened cherries, some raisiny tones, light mature notes of dry old leather and meat stew, a little bit of blackcurrant jam, slightly oxidative hints of Tawny Port and lifted VA and a touch of cigar box. The wine is developed, balanced and medium-to-moderately full-bodied on the palate with quite tertiary flavors of wizened dark berries, dry old leather, some dried figs, light savory notes of woody spice, a little bit of sweeter exotic spices and a touch of pipe tobacco. The overall feel is harmonious and velvety, thanks to the moderately high acidity and quite resolved, textural tannins. The finish is long, gently grippy and quite tertiary with a persistent, layered aftertaste of dried figs and sweet black cherries, a little bit wizened blackcurrants, light notes of tobacco, a porty hint of raisin and a slightly oxidative touch of beef jerky.

A sophisticated and harmonious old Super-Tuscan red. Obviously at its plateau of maturity - the wine hasn’t fallen apart yet and there is enough fruit to keep the wine fully alive, but there doesn’t seem to be much or any room for further development. While I doubt the wine fall apart anytime soon, it feels it is so tertiary that it won’t be going anywhere from here but down. Now is the high time to enjoy the wine if one hopes to catch it at its peak. Very enjoyable stuff, recommended. (92 pts.)

Moderately translucent, slightly maroon-hued brick-red color. Savory, slightly dusty and quite tertiary nose with evolved yet still very attractive aromas of earth, some wizened blackcurrants, light raisiny tones, a little bit of cherry marmalade, a hint of leather and a slightly animale touch of farmhouse funk. The wine is dry, firm and surprisingly lean on the palate with a medium body and bright flavors of sour cherries, fresh blackcurrants, some wizened red plums, light sweeter notes of dried figs, a little bit of leathery funk, a lifted hint of sweet VA and a touch of meaty umami. The overall feel is complex and quite dry, but a sweet streak of dried fruits runs through the more savory tones. The wine is surprisingly structured and serious, thanks to its high acidity and still surprisingly assertive and grippy tannins. The finish is dry, long and somewhat warm with moderately grippy tannins and complex, tertiary flavors of wizened forest fruits and dried red plums, some leathery tones, a little bit of pipe tobacco, light savory wood tones, a little bit of sour cherry bitterness and a ferrous hint of blood.

The wine felt quite old and tertiary with its fully mature and somewhat understated - yet attractive - bouquet, but it turned out to be surprisingly complex, intense and wonderfully structured effort on the palate. Although the wine still retains quite a bit of fruit and intensity, I doubt it will evolve much from here. Most likely the firm structure will outlive the fruit as I expect the fruit will fade away sooner than the tannins will resolve. The overall feel might be a bit juicier, sweeter and more ripe than your average 1996 Bordeaux, but perhaps exactly for that very reason the wine feels like it emphasizes the “Tuscan” part in Super-Tuscan. A very lovely wine that combines the best qualities of both Toscana and the Bordeaux varieties. Drink now or within the next 5-ish years. Highly recommended. (94 pts.)

Luminous, evolved and slightly maroon-tinged ruby red color. Looks quite pale and translucent but also surprisingly youthful for its age. Somewhat muted and dusty nose with aromas of old leather, some wizened black cherries, light sweet notes of ethery VA, a hint of decomposing wood and a touch of farmhouse attic. I wonder if the wine is subtly corked, or if the fruit flavors have just faded so that some tired, musty aromas have emerged? The wine is evolved, juicy and medium-bodied on the palate with a rather underwhelming and slightly tired taste of old leather, some sweetish notes of dried fruits, a little bit of something dusty and a touch of cherry marmalade. The overall feel is quite structured with the rather high acidity and moderately grippy medium tannins. The finish is juicy and savory with moderate tannic grip and rather light flavors of sweet black cherries, some ripe red plums, light earthy tones and a hint of sour cherry bitterness. Mainly the tannic grip, sweetness from the dried fruits and mild bitterness persist; the subtle fruit flavors fade away very fast.

I wonder if the wine had just faded away or if it was mildly corked. At times it seemed to exhibit some dusty TCA notes but at times it seemed just like a regular old Tuscan red, albeit a rather understated one. All in all, this was drinkable, but if the wine wasn’t corked, it was a rather underperforming effort - especially compared to the wonderful 1996 vintage tasted alongside. Leaving the wine unrated as I’m not certain whether the wine was corked or not.

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