TN: The first indoor gathering since Covid

THE FIRST INDOOR GATHERING SINCE COVID - Clarity - Vienna, Virginia (5/6/2021)

Eight of us got together to drink some nice wines. We were situated in a spacious private room.
Champagne
The 96 Krug in magnum was simply perfect! I typically slightly prefer the 96 Salon but not this time.

  • 1996 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut - France, Champagne
    En magnum. Perfectly mature example, beautifully combining richness, opulence and precision. Noticeable red fruit, baked cinnamon apple, burnt sugar, brioche, honey and limestone mineral. Very fine abundant mousse, rich yet precise and detailed, bright acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a long sweet baked apple driven finish with cinnamon and honey at the end. Showing a bit more richness and volume in magnum format. Although showing the vintage Krug oxidative note, it also displays purity and sweetness. Absolutely perfect! (100 pts.)
  • 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
    Really tight cork that had to be broken and pulled out using a corkscrew. Very fresh example but strangely shy fine bubbles. Still showing apple, pear and fresh lime. There is also a hint of honey and cinnamon at the end. As usual, very precise showing strong mineral and bright acidity. Hoping for a bit more bubbles (95 pts.)

Domestic White
Both really concentrated and ripe.

  • 2014 Morlet Family Vineyards La Proportion DorĂ©e - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Consistent with the previous bottles. Showing kiwi, starfruit, honey, a hint of oak, crème brulee, spicy spices and limestone. There is a hint of heat/alcohol at the end. This is a big scale wine. If you like a big scale California whites, you will like this one. Very impressive but not for everyone. (93 pts.)
  • 2015 Sine Qua Non Entre Chien et Loup - USA, California, Central Coast
    Rich and ripe yet showing good mineral expression and acidity. Slightly coiled white fruit, beeswax, honey and steely mineral. Excellent concentration, rich and opulent but also good balance and precision. Although ripe, cool overall impression. (93 pts.)

Chardonnay
The Baillot has improved, fresher and more precise.

  • 2018 Arnaud Baillot Corton-Charlemagne - France, Burgundy, CĂ´te de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    Very fresh and sweet nose, sweet white fruit, honey, honeysuckle, beeswax, oyster shell, sweet spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, finely layered, sweet, cool and precise, bright acidity and strong limestone mineral, and a long sweet white fruit driven finish with limestone and honeysuckle at the end. There is the 18 ripeness showing at the end. This has calm down a bit, showing better balance and precision. (95 pts.)
  • 2017 Edge Hill Chardonnay Bacigalupi Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Very ripe, kiwi, honey, orange zest, crème brulee, oyster shell and steely mineral. Excellent concentration, rich yellow fruit, dense, rich and deeply toned, bright acidity, oyster shell mineral, and a long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. Very rich and big scale. Apparently the same vineyard as the 73 Montelena Chardonnay. (93 pts.)

Rayas
The preference was evenly divided. The 07 would have been one of the greatest Rayas. Unfortunately this bottle had slightlly fizz.

  • 2007 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, RhĂ´ne, Southern RhĂ´ne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    This was incredibly expressive and impressive upon release. There is a hint of fizz which gives much better version of Aussie sparkling Shirazs. Enormous wine with impressive concentration. Much bigger wine than the 06. A lot of cinnamon and tobacco. The fruit is a bit stewed. The fizz bothers me and make the overall expression a bit subdued. (95 pts.)
  • 2006 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve - France, RhĂ´ne, Southern RhĂ´ne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
    This have evolved slowly since I last had in 2015, showing similar. Expressive nose displaying very ripe red fruit, cherry liqueur, cherry jam, strawberry jam, wet tobacco, garrigue, leather, rose, cola, cinnamon and nutmeg and earth. Very good concentration, very finely layered ripe red fruit, warm and round but also silky and polished, medium acidity, strong earthy mineral, and a seamless long jammy red fruit driven finish with tobacco and cinnamon at the end. This is a classic Rayas. This seems almost light compare to the 07. Nevertheless, it shows very good concentration. Since I find fizziness bothersome, I prefer this slightly. (96 pts.)

Bordeaux
The 00 Pavie was simply perfect.

  • 2000 Château Pavie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Explosive and unbelievably hedonistic nose displaying decadent black and blue fruit, blackberry liqueur, blueberry pie, crème de cassis, licorice, ink, dark milk chocolate, liquid smoke, lavender, sweet spices and crushed rocks. There is a hint of vanilla/oak. Incredible concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated black and red fruit, unctuous and rich yet silky, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and the never-ending finish. Although remaining very youthful, it is very expressive and incredibly delicious. I dare say the 00 Pavie is now even richer and more concentrated while maintaining the excellent balance. This can easily improve for a couple more decades. Is the 00 Pavie the modern day equivalent of the 47 Cheval Blanc? Absolutely perfect! (100 pts.)
  • 2003 Château AngĂ©lus - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Fully developed nose displaying rich red fruit, strawberry jam, cherry, plum, a hint of dry cherry, stewed tomato, strong mint, tobacco, sweet spices and earth. Fully integrated palate, finely layered very ripe red fruit, rich, warm and round but also silky and fluid, medium acidity, earthy mineral a medium long ripe red fruit driven finish with mint and tobacco at the end. Although it shed a lot of the 03 ripe expression, there is a hint of bitterness that I associate with the 03 vintage. It is drinking nicely. (94 pts.)

Syrah
The 09 Chave was a bit coiled and still very primary.

  • 2012 Sine Qua Non Syrah TouchĂ© Eleven Confessions Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
    Explosive primary nose displaying blackberry liqueur, blueberry pie, creme de cassis, ink, dark caramel, lavender, baking spices, steel and crushed rock. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of unbelievably concentrated black and blue fruit, unctuous, rich, deeply toned and round, medium acidity, strong mineral and a long intense black fruit driven finish with liquid smoke, ink and lavender at the end. This is a big scale wine. Although there is a lot going on, it is a bit overwhelming. It is like drinking port, i.e. I can only have a small glass. If you are a big California syrah lover, add a few points to my rating. (95 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage - France, RhĂ´ne, Northern RhĂ´ne, Hermitage
    Medium expressive nose displaying concentrated black fruit, blackberry liqueur, blackberry, licorice, animal, ink, dark spices and mineral. Exceptional concentration, very finely layered slightly coiled black fruit, unctuous and silky and polished, medium acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish with animal and ink at the end. This is not as expressive the last year’s bottle. Still needs time. (95 pts.)
  • 2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Syrah Exposition Three Weill Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
    This would have been a very impressive barrel sample Incredibly concentrated with black and blue fruit yet silky and fluid. I find it a bit monolithic lacking nuance. Impressive wine but not my cup of tea. (92 pts.)

A great time was had by all!
Posted from CellarTracker

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Nice notes, as always, Kevin! And, this may help Mr. Buzz decide on which 1996 Champagne magnum to buy! :slight_smile:

Ed

These incommensurables champagnes (including the marvelous Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 1996) should always be served in magnum … [cheers.gif]

I recently drank Rayas 2005 (20/20 at home), 2006, 2007 and 2008, not in the same context.

The 2005 and 2007 are highly concentrated. The 2006 and 2008 seem more elegant.

The Rayas 2006 was drunk with Fernando Garcia in the Maranones vineyard (Sierra de Gredos), after an excellent Pena Caballera 2016, during sunset … an outdoor unforgettable moment (19/20 then 18,5/20 for another bottle a few months later) !

The great powerful 2007 was drunk with “natural wines” lovers who did not like it … which was not a surprise … to much depth, purity and personality :slight_smile:
No fizz after 30 minutes of decanting (fizz could have been an ally for my contradictors).

I wish I could drink Pavie 2000 again, blind.
The last one was during a Pavie dinner at l’Hostellerie de Plaisance in St-Emilion. It was worshiped after Michel Rolland commented it.
I did not rate it as high … (I also remember a blind comparison at the domain in Pessac between Mouton 2000 and Smith Haut Lafitte 2000).

Great notes Kevin ( but my mother always told me that perfection does not exist… )

Exellent notes. I always like the mix of wines at an offline.

Fantastic notes as always Kevin. Really great to see that you and the crew are getting back to normalcy.

Like Laurent, I have never gotten the joy out of the 2000 Pavie as you did on this night. In fact and somewhat ironically, if you recall some years ago, during En Primeur we attended a deep vertical of Pavie at l’Hostellerie de Plaisance in St-Emilion. It was a struggle for me and in particular the 2000.

As to the 1996 Salon, maybe not the best bottle. We had this two weeks ago and it was stunning with plenty of fizz. I am always a little concerned when a champagne cork is difficult to remove. The lack of bubbles is another concern for such a young bottle.

Lets get together very soon.

Kelly,

About the polemic opulent Pavie 2003, I am more Robinson than Parker :slight_smile:

October 2019, I propose it blind to a group of friends and I wrote :
Château Pavie St-Emilion 2003 : 16,5/20
Expression particulièrement mûre, au boisé épicé : gelée de cassis, confiture de fraise, pruneau, viande fumée, bouquet garni. Extrême en effet, avec un début d’évolution. Matière évidemment riche, onctueuse, corsée (j’avais eu la même impression il y a quelques années avec Pavie 2000, solaire, monté aux nues par certains critiques). Bref, beaucoup de bruit pour rien (et un vin excessivement cher). J’entendrai des pistes, très mitigées, en Languedoc, Bordeaux maquillé, Trévallon, super-toscan …

Your note aligns with my experience.

And I wrote (note and I write)

About your signature, yesterday, another “nature” quite insignifiant world :
Vin de France La Cave Apicole Carbo Culte (2020) : 14/20 – 13/5/2021
Lledoner pelut, Grenache noir, Carignan, Mourvèdre et Syrah en macération carbonique.
Léger, agréable, net, touche Reynaud (fraise, vendange entière). Décline très vite (goût de pomme blette et devient dur). Un glou-glou instantané, comme on dit dans le monde du vin nature.

Thanks for the notes Kevin.

Glad to see the note on the 2000 Pavie especially, as this and other vintages of Pavie have been polarizing through the years, even as seen in this short thread.

Still sitting on a 2000 and a 2005 . . .

I think some of the 07 Rayas have gone through the secondary fermentation.

I hope we can get together soon!

IMO, the 96 Salon may be one of the greatest Champagnes. Unfortuntaely this was slightly off.

Great notes as always. What did Jon feed you?

Off the menu, fois gras, softshell crab and pasta were all excellent. The capon was exceptional.

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We got take out from them many times in the early phases of the pandemic, and I am looking forward to returning in person. Glad you had a fun time