I finally unpacked the most recent shipment from Rhys and found this bottle had leaked a fair amount. Based on the remaining head space it looks like it was filled a little too high. Well, no worry, as I needed an excuse to see what all the fuss is about on these 2018’s. May I just say, the fuss is well-deserved.
The Horseshoe Vineyard has almost always been my favorite in every vintage, but nearly every time we drink a bottle I know that we drank it too early. I’m always searching for that layer of complexity or completeness that has yet to emerge. It’s hard to express the thing that is absent from a wine that is so compelling in nearly every way, but you know that if you waited that some day the final layer would appear. The thing that first struck me about this 2018 is that nothing is missing! I mean sure, it’s a very young presentation but the fruit is so precocious. There is already tremendous complexity of both aromas and flavors, and the balance of the wine is just thrilling. I’ve been sipping a glass (ok, two) all afternoon and it has evolved since I popped and poured. At first it was quite soft and seductive, but after about 90 minutes it started to dress up and reveal tremendous framework for a very long life ahead. It did not “clamp down” like some wines do, losing charm in the process, but instead revealed more about its pedigree and bright future. It is still so elegant and enjoyable, but the structure is plainly evident. A harmonious wine. A complete wine. It leaves zero doubt as to the glory of what its future self will be. My only regret is not wishing for more, but I have already taken steps to hopefully remedy that. This is not only the best Horseshoe Pinot Noir that I have ever tasted, it is the best Rhys wine I have tasted.
Well done!