TN: 2018 Jean-Marc & Thomas Bouley Volnay

Quickly becoming one of my yearly purchases.

Quite dark in complexion, especially compared to the 2017; black cherry and even black fruits on opening. Graphite minerality on the nose, but the deft oak is already integrating well. The texture is nice and generous, and there are quite prominent chalky dusty tannins present that will need some time to settle. A light peppery & spicy finish. Great freshness and acidity throughout.

I’ll be putting my other two bottles away for a good long sleep but the clear class and pedigree of this domaine is on display here.

I like these wines. They are forward, eager to please and open knit.

I do wish they were a bit more red fruited for my personal taste. They don’t seem like “classic” Volnay but they sure are delicious.

Some of the best viticulture in the Côte d’Or. Walk into his vineyards and it’s as if one were treading on the crust of a perfectly cooked meringue. Superb aging potential too. We just did a vertical of the Pommard Fremiers, which is their best wine, back to 1990, and the progression is remarkable. Anyone who has any of Thomas’ 2013s in their cellar is in for a treat. I’d go so far as to say that they are among the wines of the vintage (same in 2015, 2018, 2019 for that matter).

Thanks for the note. I think the secret is out now as ‘19 was the first vintage where these were allocated (at least for the Clos des Chenes and the two pommard 1er crus). I’ve been buying heavily since ‘12 and with the exception of ‘16, which so far hasn’t spoken to me, I think that they are up there with the best of Beaune in all but price, name cachet and recognition. The ‘15 Cailleret is sublime.
Alex

You helped me clue into this domaine, William, so thank you. I’ve only had his Hautes-Côtes and Volnay bottlings, but I’m impressed by the tightrope-taut balance of texture, purity of fruit, and freshness even in this concentrated vintage.

Like Alex said, I expect these will become only more expensive and difficult to obtain in the years to come.

I’m very gratified to hear that, thank you!

Don’t miss the 2019s when they come out. I tried a few from tank the other week, just after he racked them, and they will be special. So, for that matter, will 2020s.

I really need to add this producer to my buy list. Thanks, both of you, for the illuminating comments. Good notes as always, Sean

Best,

Mike

Please stop talking about this producer. We get limited bottles here in Ontario and I don’t need the competition.

We need a two year moratorium on discussion of JM Bouley wines on this board. Need to give us at least a small window to accumulate a stash. The wines are already becoming very, very difficult to source. The 2013’s are awesome. Had the Chenes on Saturday. And what is startling is the wines have improved a lot since 2013. We are seeing a Duroche-like climb up the quality curve.

Tried his 13/14s a year back and was very impressed, textbook Burgundy. I have a 2010 Clos de Chenes in storage but just wondering if that was before the bulk of improvement took place?

For whatever reason, from the source, they don’t sell as quickly as you’d think. That said, I think that will change soon.

Thomas’ first vintage from vineyard to bottle was 2002, and that was already a super success. After that, the improvements are incremental, with lots of work in the vineyards and refinements in the cellar (all of this will go into the article I’m writing following our vertical of Fremiers). 2010 is still one of his best years, so I think you should be very happy to have that. I’d also single out his 2013s as especially successful if anyone is scouring the market.

Cheers William for the invaluable info as usual! Looking forward to try the 2010 and will look for more 13s

One of those producers that I have been buying since ‘12 but have never opened any bottle, time to bring some out of long term storage.

Dude, that’s an impressive show of faith.

Consider it WK Preview

I discovered Bouley at Paulee, when he poured his 2010s. Rich, vibrant, delicious wines. I finally opened a 2010 Chenes last year to check in, big mistake, it was tough as nails. But having visited twice now, i have great confidence, so keep on buying. Though prices have slowed that considerably.

Nah…part and parcel of getting my Fourrier and Gibourg allocations. lol. Prices for Bouley wines are quite reasonable anyway, what could possibly go wrong?

Well he’s sold out as of last night. I just pre-ordered my 19s I’m not taking any chances.