I glanced quickly through the shelves and was pretty much ready to leave without any purchases when the lady behind the counter mentioned that the very large drawer in the middle of the shop is full of wine and I should go through each locker just in case there was something of interest. That I did and indeed there were dozens and dozens of seemingly fairly priced 10+ year old bottles, some from pretty solid producers and appellations, Burgundy especially. The temperature in the shop was pretty cool but not cool enough for me to consider any of the white Burgundies but this then 14 year Pinot Noir felt like a solid purchase at just below 40€. Turns out my hunch was right, as this was an extremely solid bottle of Pinot Noir and very much proper Burgundy. I wonder about the grapes that went into this as it seems so classically proportioned and stylish.
- 2005 Bernard Dugat-Py Bourgogne - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne (17.4.2021)
Rugged and charismatic on the nose with savory red fruit (cherry, red currant), mineral tones, leather, mixed spices, some non-toasty oak and a slightly volatile edge. Not fruit forward at all, very nice. Quite full on the palate with pretty remarkable fine-grained tannins that grip strongly but very elegantly. Dry and savory with perfect ripeness. Powerful and masculine yet with very little weight (12.5%!). Brilliantly balanced and seamless with a lingering finish. Despite being quite evolved and a dead serious wine this is also markedly vivid. I’m no expert but this just could be at its peak right now - there is such a harmony with no rough edges and enough fruit left still. Wonderful stuff, an over-achiever considering the appellation.