TN: Another lost Friday afternoon gathering – Mostly Burgundies with a few from Piedmont

ANOTHER LOST FRIDAY AFTERNOON GATHERING – MOSTLY BURGUNDIES WITH A FEW FROM PIEDMONT - Jailbreak Brewery, Laurel, MD (4/9/2021)

Six of us got together to drink a lot of nice wines. Justin set us up in a super large enclosed private area. We tried just about everything off the lunch menu and all were excellent. excellent ingredients that are beautifully executed.

Parusso
This was a big scale Barolo with noticeable oak. It didn’t bother me but caveat emptor.

  • 2016 Parusso Barolo Mariondino - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Expressive nose displaying concentrated red and black fruit, cherry liqueur, black cherry, blackberry, noticeable oak/vanilla, tar, smoked meat, ash, spicy spices and iron mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of ripe sweet red and black fruit, rich and dense, bright acidity, strong iron mineral and a long sweet black and red fruit driven finish with caramel and iron at the end. This is a big scale “Modern” barolo. Really impressive but if you are averse to oak in Barolo, this is not for you. I enjoyed it like a young big Cali cab. (95 pts.)

18 vs 19 Servin
I hope the 18 ripeness will subside but why bother. I much preferred the 19s.

  • 2018 Domaine Servin Chablis Les Pargues - France, Burgundy, Chablis
    Slightly suppressed nose displaying very ripe yellow fruit, granny smith, golden delicious, a hint of pineapple, honey and light mineral. Good concentration, sweet ripe yellow fruit, good acidity, medium to light mineral, and a medium long finish with honey and baked apple at the end. It clearly expresses the extreme ripeness of the vintage. Almost as enjoyable as the 18 Les Clos. (90 pts.)
  • 2018 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe yellow tropical fruit, lemon curd, yellow peach, baked apple, honey suckle, honey, sweet spices and medium mineral. Excellent concentration, packed concentrated very ripe yellow fruit, rich and exotic, good acidity, medium mineral and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with honeysuckle and sweet spices at the end. IMO, the ripe fruit expression will attenuate in a couple of years and starting to show a bit more mineral. It is really education and fun to taste the 18s and the 19s side by side. I much prefer the 19 Vaillons to the 18 Les Clos. As white Burgundy goes, it is the vintage that matters the most. (91 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
    Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe white and yellow fruit, white peach, lemon curd, granny smith, white flowers, sea breeze and limestone. Very good concentration, finely layered ripe yellow and white fruit, fresh and energetic, bright acidity and mineral, and a long sweet white fruit driven finish with white lowers and salt at the end. An excellent example of perfectly ripe Chardonnay. This is simply delicious. (94 pts.)
  • 2019 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe white fruit, pear, apple, bubble gum, a hint of honeysuckle, saline and wet stone. Excellent concentration, packed concentration white fruit, unbelievable amount of dry extract, opulent yet fresh and energetic, bright acidity, generous wet stone mineral, and a long sweet white fruit driven finish with bubble gum and wet stone at the end. This is a serious wine but I prefer the Vaillons for the current drinking. (94 pts.)

Fleur de Miraval
Nothing special, not as interesting as Cedric Bouchard’s Inflorescence.

  • NV Fleur de Miraval Champagne Exclusivement Rosé - France, Champagne
    The color and palate are more like Blanc de Noir than Rose. Fully developed nose displaying sweet yellow fruit, baked apple, yeast, cinnamon and limestone. Medium concentration, finely layered sweet yellow fruit, very fine medium generous mousse, subtle, harmonious and complex, good acidity and mineral, and a medium long sweet yellow fruit driven finish with yeast and cinnamon at the end. This is a fully developed Champagne. The closest style is Cedric Bouchard except it lacks excitement, energy and deliciousness. (91 pts.)

16 Produttori
It was educational to taste them together. Both were excellent but not really high 90s excellent for my palate.

  • 2016 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Montefico - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe black fruit, blackberry, black cherry, a hint of dry cherry, rose, tar, dry herbs, caramel, balsamico, charred steak, and iron. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of sweet slightly dry black fruit, very focused and masculine, bright acidity, strong iron mineral, and a long pure black fruit driven finish with tar and dry herbs at the end. This is a serious masculine wine, no make up and very naked and honest, for the true Barolo/Barbaresco purists. I slightly prefer the Rabaja which is more expressive/open and generous. This will easily improve for the next three decades or more. I believe it will always remain very masculine and structured. This is a mid 90pts wine and although I like it, I personally would not chase. (95 pts.)
  • 2016 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe generous red fruit, red cherry, cherry liqueur, strawberry jam, licorice, caramel, sweet and spicy spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated sweet red fruit, rich, warm and round, bright acidity, strong iron mineral, and a long sweet red fruit driven finish with caramel and sweet spice at the end. Although very primary, this is actually quite enjoyable. Much more user friendly than the Montefico. (95 pts.)

15 Michel Colin-Deléger Chevalier
This seemed a bit too ripe. It was correct so it may improve with time.

  • 2015 Michel Colin-Deléger et Fils Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Medium expressive nose displaying ripe and slightly coiled yellow fruit, golden delicious, a hint of lemon curd, light caramel, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, slightly coiled concentrated yellow fruit, rich, dry extract, good acidity, medium mineral and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of caramel at the end. Although very enjoyable, it lacks the finesse and weightlessness of Chevalier Montrachet. IMO, the vintage matters more than anything else in white burgundy. (94 pts.)

Blind White Burgundy
It demonstrated that V. Girardin wines are consistently excellent. Domaine Leflaive is making exceptional wines once again. I was impressed by the 19 McBride sisters Chardonnay, really well made.

  • 2013 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Blind Grand Crus Burgundy - Wine 1
    Expressive refined nose displaying sumptuous and pure white fruit, pear, a hint of lemon curd, white peach, granny smith, saline, white flowers and wet stone. There is a hint of vanilla, judicious use of oak, that gives the wine extra dimension and creaminess. Perfectly integrated yet youthful palate, finely layered succulent and tasty yet serious white fruit, very precise and detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated pure white fruit driven finish with white flowers and wet stone at the end. Exceptional elegance and beautiful texture, my guess is Chevalier Montrachet from an excellent producer. (97 pts.)
  • 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chevalier-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Blind Grand Crus Burgundy - Wine 2
    Very focused nose displaying incredibly concentrated yellow fruit with a hint of white, granny smith, cinnamon apple, lemon curd, steely, a hint of oak, sweet spices and earthy mineral. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of concentrated yellow fruit, rich, dense, chewy and deeply toned, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with steel and a hint of oak at the end. This is a big scale masculine Burgundy which makes me to guess as a Batard Montrachet. This is really impressive but I prefer the Girardin version which is a textbook Chevalier for me. (95 pts.)
  • 2019 McBride Sisters Chardonnay - USA, California, Central Coast
    Blind Grand Crus Burgundy - Wine 3
    Medium expressive nose displaying very ripe yellow fruit, peach, bubble gum, apple and a hint of mineral. Medium concentration, ripe sweet yellow fruit, medium acidity, slightly lacking mineral, and a medium long sweet yellow fruit driven finish. Justin thinks this is too ripe and not a GC burgundy. I am guessing the 18 Corton. This is a well made domestic Chardonnay. (90 pts.)
  • 2017 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
    Blind Grand Crus Burgundy - Wine 4
    Beautifully focused nose displaying succulent yellow fruit with a hint of white, lemon curd, granny smith, lemon oil, a hint of beeswax, flint and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of opulent yet pure yellow fruit, rich yet precise and focused, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated yellow fruit driven finish with beeswax and limestone at the end. Impressive concentration, focus and precision. My guess is a Batard from a great producer, actually total luck but guess the wine correctly. (97 pts.)

2005 Camus
A great vintage and a great vineyard but terrible wine making

  • 2005 Camus Pere & Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
    This was served blind. Slightly oxidized, noticeable soy. Rich red fruit underneath, also iron. Really good material but poor wine making. NR (flawed)

DRCs
Both showed really well

  • 2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe youthful black and red fruit, blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, cherry, strong stem with a hint of green, animal, toasted sesame, Vosne spice, only a hint of sous bois, rose, cinnamon, iron, ash and earth. Beautifully integrated palate, layers upon layers of generous red fruit, rich yet silky, detailed and polished, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, fine tannins, and a seamless long generous red and black fruit driven finish with stem and sesame at the end. This is a very youthful example with only a slight hint of sous bois. This can easily improve for another two decades if one prefers fully mature Burgundy expression with undescriptive sweet red fruit and strong sous bois. I slightly prefer the 09 which is a more complete wine for my palate. (96 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru
    Expressive nose displaying perfectly ripe black fruit with a hint of red, blackberry, blackberry jelly, black cherry, strawberry, strong stem with a hint of green, mocha, caramel, Chinese herbal medicine and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of perfectly ripe concentrated black fruit, rich and intense yet also beautifully detailed and precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, very fine tannins and a seamless long concentrated black fruit driven finish with Chinese herbal medicine and caramel at the end. Truly impressive material and this will age gracefully for another three decades This is much more open than the previous bottle. (97 pts.)

Bruno Giacosa
The Falletto seemed a bit more mature than usual with very ripe slightly dry red fruit.l The Asili was singing.

  • 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Expressive nose displaying dry red fruit, red cherry, cherry liqueur, strawberry jam, plum, roasted almond, fruitcake, caramel, cedar, leather, sweet spices and iron mineral. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of sweet slightly dry cherry fruit, rich and unctuous yet also showing good detail, bright acidity, strong iron mineral, still noticeable silky tannins and a long concentration dry red fruit driven finish with leather and iron at the end. The fruit expression of this particular bottle is riper than usual. This is a bit more mature than usual. Drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)
  • 1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Expressive youthful nose displaying perfectly ripe concentrated black fruit, blackberry, blackberry jam, a hint of dry cherry, strong licorice, caramel, smoked meat, sweet and spicy spices and strong iron mineral. Perfectly integrated palate, layers upon layers of hedonistic black fruit, rich and opulent yet also precise and detailed, bright acidity, strong iron mineral, fine tannins and a long sweet black fruit driven finish with iron and licorice at the end. This youthful bottle is very expressive. Drinking magnificently but no need to hurry. (98 pts.)

Sticky
A nice way to end the lunch/dinner.

  • 1990 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Rechbächel Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese - Germany, Pfalz
    Absolutely gorgeous nose displaying concentrated red and yellow fruit, dry fit, dry peach, peach cobbler, orange marmalade, a hint of red currant, candied ginger, sweet and spicy spices and mineral. Perfectly integrated palate, finely layered incredibly concentrated red and yellow fruit, rich yet airy and weightless, mouth puckering acidity and the finish that never ends. If you are a big fan of TBA, this will not disappoint. Don’t look for freshness in fruit but still very fresh due to the piercing acidity. (96 pts.)

A great time was had by all. The lunch started around one and lasted seven plus hours. I highly recommend the hot dog at Jailbreak!
Posted from CellarTracker

1 Like

Thanks for the notes, Kevin,

Lovely and helpful in a variety of ways. (You’ve got me curious about the Girardin Chevy and I have some Camus GC.)