When is a Saint Emilion not a Saint Emilion? When it’s like this one! If, like me, you stopped buying Saint Emilions after 2008, sold all your 2005s and migrated to the Loire in search of freshness, this one is for you.
I should however explain right away that it is not a “proper” Saint Emilion at all. In 2017, there were frosts much like the ones that are afflicting vineyards right now, so the entire Merlot crop in the Jean Faure vineyard was lost. As a result, the wine was made with 95% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec. It’s organic and…“only” 13°.
The nose is very mouth-watering, with layers of juicy raspberry and blackcurrant, then just a hint of herbs. The attack is full of the crunchy red fruit you might expect from a Roches-Neuves, then it broadens out into a middle section full of raspberries, quite lush but restrained at the same time, before a crisp finish focusing on blackcurrant and spices.
In her EP report, Jane Anson wrote that it was rather oaky, but I’m guessing that it was just an EP experiment sample, because I only got a hint of oak.
In style, it’s like a cross between a Roches-Neuves and a Yannick Amirault, which is rather weird when you see Saint Emilion on the label. It has the freshness and elegance of a Loire red, which suits me fine, so atypical it may be, but I liked it a lot. No syrupy fruit, no mocha, no excessive alcohol, what’s not to like?
I decanted it for five hours and it was already very approachable, but there is a tannic grip and it will be much better in a few more years.
Final amusing detail - the consultant is Hubert de Boüard! But Robert A can relax - not even he could ruin this.