TN: 2019 Keller „Abtserde“ GG - the magic of Riesling

Martin_Zwick · March 23, 2021, 10:57am

Of course, it was much too early to open this bottle. But I was such curious about Abtserde, as it is one of my favorite Riesling. And I couldn´t attend the annual barrel tasting „Jungweinprobe“ at the estate Keller last year in march due to the pandemic, so I had no chance to get a first impression of 2019. The estate Keller delivered the bottles on 5th march to Berlin.

2019 Keller „Abtserde“ GG

The favoured vineyard of the Bishop of Worms in the 14th century (and today a sub-plot of the Brunnenhäuschen grand cru). In the Middle Ages, this site was considered the finest vineyard in Keller’s area of the Rheinhessen, known as the Hügelland. The wines from the vineyard were strictly reserved for the Bishop of nearby Worms.

I drank the bottle over 5 days. On day 1 I noticed the familiar purity&precision of the estate KELLER and finesse&elegance of ABTSERDE.
In addition a deep, deep limestone minerality and grip&vibe. No wonder, the Riesling was best on day 5 and you will get a hint what lies ahead.

In these dark times it was the right thing to open this bottle and enjoy every day a glass of magic Riesling and watch/observe the development of the wine.

Here the profound TN by John Gilman

„The Abtserde Grosses Gewächs bottling from Weingut Keller has been one of the greatest three or four white wines in the world for well more than a decade now, it is not perhaps time for the German wine authorities to relent and let the historical name of this vineyard finally appear on labels? I know that adaptability and change are not easy things in officialdom, but this is the historical name of this section of the Brunnenhäuschen that goes back centuries, and it really serves to be on the label, as it is a singular terroir from the rest of the vineyard. In any case, the 2019 Abtserde is utterly brilliant, offering up a young and stunning bouquet of tart, orange, pink grapefruit, lemon, a very complex base of salty, chalky minerality, spring flavors, just a whisper of wild yeasts, citrus zest and lemongrass. On the palate the wine is precise, deep and full-bodied, with flawless balance and grip, snappy, buried acids, stunning mineral drive and grip and a very, very long, complex and electric finish. Sheer brilliance!“ 2034-2100

99/100

I strongly recommend to subscribe “View from the Cellar” by John Gilman, a true expert for German Riesling.

http://www.viewfromthecellar.com

Stay healthy,
Martin

Robert_Dentice · March 23, 2021, 11:40am

Thanks for the note! I can feel the magic!

DougS · March 23, 2021, 1:03pm

Unfortunately this is probably as close as I will get to trying the wine. I’m sure it’s great, and at least I can be thankful to have tried several earlier vintages. I like that Gilman doesn’t hold back when he thinks something is really great…or not. The ongoing labeling issue with such a prestigious and famous wine, from a clearly defined historical site, doesn’t cast the German government wine authorities in a good light. Of course, there are a lot of things that don’t do that.

Martin_Zwick · March 23, 2021, 2:03pm

As you can see with our vaccination speed right now, we are slow country. UNFORTUNATELY

Jayson_Cohen · March 23, 2021, 2:33pm

Thanks for posting. Abtserde is such a special wine. I hope I get a chance to taste 2019 at some point.

Brian_S_t_o_t_t_e_r · March 23, 2021, 3:43pm

Thanks for posting Martin. The Keller GGs have gotten a little high for my price range (maybe I’ll sac some future kabinett or other bottle purchases, especially since my locker is completely full), but I try to grab some Von Der Fels when I can.

And I agree re: John Gilman. Great person to email back-and-forth as well.

Martin_Zwick · March 23, 2021, 4:11pm

Brian,

2019 vdF is like a GG and contains a barrel of Abtserde for depth. I also recommend it to drink it over 3-4-5 days.

DougS · March 24, 2021, 1:24am

I wish I’d been buying von der Fels to age all along. I am happy to have some 2019. I’ll wait a few years before opening one.

Dale_McClaran · March 24, 2021, 3:07pm

Of course, it was much too early to open this bottle. But I was such curious about Abtserde, as it is one of my favorite Riesling. And I couldn´t attend the annual barrel tasting „Jungweinprobe“ at the estate Keller last year in march due to the pandemic, so I had no chance to get a first impression of 2019. The estate Keller delivered the bottles on 5th march to Berlin.

2019 Keller „Abtserde“ GG

The favoured vineyard of the Bishop of Worms in the 14th century (and today a sub-plot of the Brunnenhäuschen grand cru). In the Middle Ages, this site was considered the finest vineyard in Keller’s area of the Rheinhessen, known as the Hügelland. The wines from the vineyard were strictly reserved for the Bishop of nearby Worms.

I drank the bottle over 5 days. On day 1 I noticed the familiar purity&precision of the estate KELLER and finesse&elegance of ABTSERDE.
In addition a deep, deep limestone minerality and grip&vibe. No wonder, the Riesling was best on day 5 and you will get a hint what lies ahead.

In these dark times it was the right thing to open this bottle and enjoy every day a glass of magic Riesling and watch/observe the development of the wine.

Here the profound TN by John Gilman

„The Abtserde Grosses Gewächs bottling from Weingut Keller has been one of the greatest three or four white wines in the world for well more than a decade now, it is not perhaps time for the German wine authorities to relent and let the historical name of this vineyard finally appear on labels? I know that adaptability and change are not easy things in officialdom, but this is the historical name of this section of the Brunnenhäuschen that goes back centuries, and it really serves to be on the label, as it is a singular terroir from the rest of the vineyard. In any case, the 2019 Abtserde is utterly brilliant, offering up a young and stunning bouquet of tart, orange, pink grapefruit, lemon, a very complex base of salty, chalky minerality, spring flavors, just a whisper of wild yeasts, citrus zest and lemongrass. On the palate the wine is precise, deep and full-bodied, with flawless balance and grip, snappy, buried acids, stunning mineral drive and grip and a very, very long, complex and electric finish. Sheer brilliance!“ 2034-2100

99/100

I strongly recommend to subscribe “View from the Cellar” by John Gilman, a true expert for German Riesling.

http://www.viewfromthecellar.com

IMG_5126.jpg

Stay healthy,
Martin

Hi Martin,

Thank you for the note (and all the impressions over the years) on a wine and producer that I thought I would never be able to try myself, at least for the Keller GG’s. That is until this last December, my lovely wife somehow how came up with a bottle of the 19 Kirchspiel GG for my 50th birthday. Have you had a chance to taste it yet and if so, any impressions you might be able to share? Thanks!

Robert_Dentice · March 24, 2021, 3:23pm

Of course, it was much too early to open this bottle. But I was such curious about Abtserde, as it is one of my favorite Riesling. And I couldn´t attend the annual barrel tasting „Jungweinprobe“ at the estate Keller last year in march due to the pandemic, so I had no chance to get a first impression of 2019. The estate Keller delivered the bottles on 5th march to Berlin.

2019 Keller „Abtserde“ GG

The favoured vineyard of the Bishop of Worms in the 14th century (and today a sub-plot of the Brunnenhäuschen grand cru). In the Middle Ages, this site was considered the finest vineyard in Keller’s area of the Rheinhessen, known as the Hügelland. The wines from the vineyard were strictly reserved for the Bishop of nearby Worms.

I drank the bottle over 5 days. On day 1 I noticed the familiar purity&precision of the estate KELLER and finesse&elegance of ABTSERDE.
In addition a deep, deep limestone minerality and grip&vibe. No wonder, the Riesling was best on day 5 and you will get a hint what lies ahead.

In these dark times it was the right thing to open this bottle and enjoy every day a glass of magic Riesling and watch/observe the development of the wine.

Here the profound TN by John Gilman

„The Abtserde Grosses Gewächs bottling from Weingut Keller has been one of the greatest three or four white wines in the world for well more than a decade now, it is not perhaps time for the German wine authorities to relent and let the historical name of this vineyard finally appear on labels? I know that adaptability and change are not easy things in officialdom, but this is the historical name of this section of the Brunnenhäuschen that goes back centuries, and it really serves to be on the label, as it is a singular terroir from the rest of the vineyard. In any case, the 2019 Abtserde is utterly brilliant, offering up a young and stunning bouquet of tart, orange, pink grapefruit, lemon, a very complex base of salty, chalky minerality, spring flavors, just a whisper of wild yeasts, citrus zest and lemongrass. On the palate the wine is precise, deep and full-bodied, with flawless balance and grip, snappy, buried acids, stunning mineral drive and grip and a very, very long, complex and electric finish. Sheer brilliance!“ 2034-2100

99/100

I strongly recommend to subscribe “View from the Cellar” by John Gilman, a true expert for German Riesling.

http://www.viewfromthecellar.com

IMG_5126.jpg

Stay healthy,
Martin

Hi Martin,

Thank you for the note (and all the impressions over the years) on a wine and producer that I thought I would never be able to try myself, at least for the Keller GG’s. That is until this last December, my lovely wife someone how came up with a bottle of the 19 Kirchspiel GG for my 50th birthday. Have you had a chance to taste it yet and if so, any impressions you might be able to share? Thanks!

I had 19 Kirschspiel recently and it was much more open than 19 Hubacker. It is drinkable now for sure but could benefit from time. BTW - what a birthday gift! If you ever get to NYC I will open some Keller GGs for you.

Dale_McClaran · March 24, 2021, 4:03pm

Of course, it was much too early to open this bottle. But I was such curious about Abtserde, as it is one of my favorite Riesling. And I couldn´t attend the annual barrel tasting „Jungweinprobe“ at the estate Keller last year in march due to the pandemic, so I had no chance to get a first impression of 2019. The estate Keller delivered the bottles on 5th march to Berlin.

2019 Keller „Abtserde“ GG

The favoured vineyard of the Bishop of Worms in the 14th century (and today a sub-plot of the Brunnenhäuschen grand cru). In the Middle Ages, this site was considered the finest vineyard in Keller’s area of the Rheinhessen, known as the Hügelland. The wines from the vineyard were strictly reserved for the Bishop of nearby Worms.

I drank the bottle over 5 days. On day 1 I noticed the familiar purity&precision of the estate KELLER and finesse&elegance of ABTSERDE.
In addition a deep, deep limestone minerality and grip&vibe. No wonder, the Riesling was best on day 5 and you will get a hint what lies ahead.

In these dark times it was the right thing to open this bottle and enjoy every day a glass of magic Riesling and watch/observe the development of the wine.

Here the profound TN by John Gilman

„The Abtserde Grosses Gewächs bottling from Weingut Keller has been one of the greatest three or four white wines in the world for well more than a decade now, it is not perhaps time for the German wine authorities to relent and let the historical name of this vineyard finally appear on labels? I know that adaptability and change are not easy things in officialdom, but this is the historical name of this section of the Brunnenhäuschen that goes back centuries, and it really serves to be on the label, as it is a singular terroir from the rest of the vineyard. In any case, the 2019 Abtserde is utterly brilliant, offering up a young and stunning bouquet of tart, orange, pink grapefruit, lemon, a very complex base of salty, chalky minerality, spring flavors, just a whisper of wild yeasts, citrus zest and lemongrass. On the palate the wine is precise, deep and full-bodied, with flawless balance and grip, snappy, buried acids, stunning mineral drive and grip and a very, very long, complex and electric finish. Sheer brilliance!“ 2034-2100

99/100

I strongly recommend to subscribe “View from the Cellar” by John Gilman, a true expert for German Riesling.

http://www.viewfromthecellar.com

IMG_5126.jpg

Stay healthy,
Martin

Hi Martin,

Thank you for the note (and all the impressions over the years) on a wine and producer that I thought I would never be able to try myself, at least for the Keller GG’s. That is until this last December, my lovely wife somehow how came up with a bottle of the 19 Kirchspiel GG for my 50th birthday. Have you had a chance to taste it yet and if so, any impressions you might be able to share? Thanks!

I had 19 Kirschspiel recently and it was much more open than 19 Hubacker. It is drinkable now for sure but could benefit from time. BTW - what a birthday gift! If you ever get to NYC I will open some Keller GGs for you.

Hi Robert, thanks for the sneak peak and being a bi-costal resident (Arlington VA) I might just take you up on that! Very kind gesture for sure. I heard a great line from a local retailer about the high end Keller wines in the USA. Something to the effect of ‘when you buy a Keller in the US, you are basically paying someone in Germany not to drink it’ lol. I think that could be applied to a lot of high end trophy wines on the secondary market.

DougS · March 24, 2021, 4:22pm

I almost always find these wines to be far more open about a year after released and they are earlier. 1 to 2 years from release seems to be a really good early window.

Martin_Zwick · March 24, 2021, 5:57pm

Hi Dale,

I had 2019 Kirchspiel GG last September together with 20 other Top-GGs from 2019. 2019 is a superb vintage at the estate Keller and a vintage for the long run. 2019 Kirchspiel GG was great. Sorry, no specific notes.

Here some notes from John Gilman:

“The wine is tightly-knit out of the block and will demand some cellaring, but I have never tasted a better young Kirchspiel from Klaus Peter”. 2031-2085

96/100

Stay save,
Martin