When Brad Baker named Lilbert as one of his top-6 growers here I suddenly felt a need to somehow get some of these bottles in my hands. Having never seen any at retail I did not expect it to be that easy but sometimes life surprises you and quite soon a courier delivered 36 bottles for me and a few of friends. A couple of them managed to try this and the Perle and really praised the wines. I am happy to say they were not wrong - this is the best find for me in the classic steely Blanc de Blancs style in years. This producer is going to be a mainstay in my cellar.
NV Lilbert-Fils Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut- France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (19.3.2021)
So classic on the nose: fresh, bright and stony with notes of green apple, lemon, crushed rock, smoke and iodine for days. Textbook stuff and massively on point. The mousse is totally mouthfilling with great density and persistence. The palate at first did not seem bone dry despite only 3 g/l dosage but got drier with some time. There is no lack of citrusy fruit but more than anything the flavor profile is thoroughly savory and takes you right to the ocean and the soil. Very firm and nicely dense. Totally harmonious and seamless with a finish that lingers delightfully, fading very slowly. Not as vinous as many grower wines nowadays, this was nothing short of perfect with sushi and the drinkability was on a mineral water level. This is an absolutely gastronomic wine and a purist’s dream. It does not try to win anyone over with its style but if dry, linear and powerfully acidic Chardonnay from Côte des Blancs is your thing then I can’t see how you would not love this.
Great note! These wines are so delicious and they age well too. Now you need to go try a vintage wine from Lilbert. They have more precision, intensity, and structure vs. the NV wines and also age at a glacial pace.
Just to add to the chorus. I’ve been a client for a pretty long time now, so I can say with some confidence that their wines are nothing short of impeccable, year in year out. Never any nonsense, just purity, focus, length and precision. Perle is simply one of my favourite expressions of old-vine Chardonnay anywhere. Wonderful people, too.
Thanks all. This is also the only Lilbert I’ve tried; one left in the cellar which I’ll hold. I’ll watch for the vintage wines, although I don’t ever recall seeing them offered.
NV Lilbert-Fils Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (1.1.2023)
2017 as my previous bottle drunk in 2021, no obvious development to be found here. Supremely youthful, reserved and pure terroir.
Day 2 update: as my gf had caught the cold we had a glass’s worth left the next day. There is one word that describes the overnight development well: wow. The mousse has becoming absolutely palate-caressing and on the flavor profile there is now this incredibly delicious toastiness. If yesterday this was something to drink solely with food now I would not want anything to disturb the enjoymeny the wine offers on its own. I think the next bottle I will open one day in advance.
