My first François Pinon wine and can’t say it’s a bad start. Just a treat aromatically and so easy to enjoy. Then I check on CT what I paid for this a few years ago and all I can do is shake my head…13.85€??? The early contender for QPR of the year is here.
2015 François Pinon Vouvray Silex Noir- France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (17.3.2021)
The label says 12.5% so the nose surprises with its ripeness and explosive aromatics. It’s honeyed with a lot of apricot and hints of botrytis and autolysis. Just wonderful! On the palate it comes off likewise pretty ripe with possibly some level of residual sugar. Quite mouth-caressing until the finish where the respectable acidity comes to the fore, rendering the palate dry and irresistibly tangy. Overall this wine feels really alive and just drinks very well. I am not sure what the future holds but it is in a great phase right now.
Pinon is one of the biggest value plays in wine out there. They would be wonderful even if they weren’t so affordable. That they are is icing on the cake.
Nice note - you are helping me vicariously imagine the tasting of this wine! I enjoy the various expressions of Chenin Blanc but I think the type of wine you describe is my favorite with the balanced tension and vivacity of ripe fruit (and perhaps a tiny bit of residual sugar) with acid and various spice and mineral components. Yum! Cheers.
Haven’t had 15, but 14 and 17 are stellar too. Am thinking about popping an 18 tonight with Thai food. I think Pinon gives Pepiere Briords a run for its money as best Loire QPR white, although very different wines of course!
I, too, am a fan of, and very much appreciate your notes/writing style. Thank you.
That said, here’s my note from nearly a year ago, fwiw. Happy to have a few more in the cellar.
“PnP, served non-blind over 3 hours. Medium straw color, bright, and clear. Not the woolen version of Chenin Blanc, instead this is about white, and to a lesser extent, yellow fruits, soil/mineral, and a whisper of honey that never actually reveals itself. Very precise, elegant palate; clearly a master at work. Best served just below cellar temp, and an hour of air only seemed to help. Should hold in this preferred plateau for another 10-15 years, but there’s just so much to enjoy now, too. 12,5% abv., dry, medium-bodied, lovely. highly recommended”
The spectrum surely covers a lot of different styles and expressions - I am not sure whether I prefer this to let’s say the recent Thomas Boudignon Anjou but then both wines are tasty and drinkable as hell so I am happy to have access to both.
Likewise! I had seen your note and I suppose our experiences differ some, although not so much when it comes to enjoyment. I don’t know how much development can be realistically expected in a timespan of one year but seems like your bottle was less developed than mine for whatever reason.
Thanks for the note Ilkka, definitely echo the others regarding the value of your notes! Have also enjoyed the Pinons that I have tried, not usually a fan of off-dry wines like these but they retain good energy.
Indeed apparently Pinon classifies this as demi-sec and according to their website the 2014 had 15 g/l residual sugar. I think more than any other Vouvray this reminded me of Vincent Careme’s Vouvray Tendre
Yeah, it is almost “come one, come all” for Chenin Blanc as far as styles/espressions. I pulled this interesting chart on the range of Chidaine’s “expressions” from the back of a bottle. What you describe in your tasting note comes across to me as what they call “Tendre”. Chidaine’s Tuffeaux (when it’s on) has been a satisfying and yummy example of this style for me - as you say “drinkable as hell” but also a lot going on and worth a thought or two. Cheers.
I met Francois a few times in NYC, a charming man. Was very sad to hear of his passing.
If you haven’t already read it Chris Coad’s tale of visiting the Pinon estate back in 2002 is well worth reading. I’m sorry I never made it there myself.
I can’t recall such chart on any of my Chidaine bottles but it’s been years since I have purchased any so I guess it’s a more recent thing (and a good addition!). Tendre is indeed what I feel this bottle very much was. While I thought Careme instead of Chidaine I suppose something like Le Bouchet is somewhat similar as well.
