Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

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Mark Golodetz
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Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#1 Post by Mark Golodetz »

It started off with a chicken with morels, Vin jaune and cream over rice. I poured a small glass of the Vin Jaune Henri Mairie 2008, and liked it. Faintly oxidative but a little vestigial fruit, nuts and honey. Long finish.

But what an amazing addition to the chicken. It did not stop there, adding layers of flavor to Kung Pao chicken, lentil soup with Iberico ham and my breakfast fried rice dish (bacon eggs, onions and mushrooms). I no longer have Sherry near the oil in the kitchen, too simple. I love the extra complexity the VJ brings to the dish.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#2 Post by Phil T r o t t e r »

I am a true Vin Jaune enthusiast. Ever since the first sip, I was sold on this deeply layered, oxidative, nutty and somehow balanced experienced. The story behind the Clavelin also gives it a little whimsy every time I uncork a bottle. I've had "poulet au vin jaune" and "lapin au vin jaune" a few times always thinking it was good. Good enough to pour the Vin Jaune in the Creuset instead of my glass... no.

But if you can use it as cooking wine, good on you. Just don't let me near the oil in your kitchen. the VJ will be gone.

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#3 Post by Paul @bbott »

If you eat out at an auberge in the Jura coq au vin Jaune is the dish to choose. As long as cholesterol isn’t a concern.

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#4 Post by A. So »

Mark Golodetz wrote: February 23rd, 2021, 11:40 am It started off with a chicken with morels, Vin jaune and cream over rice. I poured a small glass of the Vin Jaune Henri Mairie 2008, and liked it. Faintly oxidative but a little vestigial fruit, nuts and honey. Long finish.

But what an amazing addition to the chicken. It did not stop there, adding layers of flavor to Kung Pao chicken, lentil soup with Iberico ham and my breakfast fried rice dish (bacon eggs, onions and mushrooms). I no longer have Sherry near the oil in the kitchen, too simple. I love the extra complexity the VJ brings to the dish.
Kung pao chicken requires the use of shaoxing wine which has a similar oxidative flavour profile to vin jaune. I've read recipes where either dry sherry or vin jaune are used as substitutes if shaoxing is not available.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#5 Post by Brian King »

Mark - have you found any that are economical for cooking? I also love the Morels and Vin Jaune combo, but it was painful using an expensive bottle. In my part of NC the cheapest I found was like $25 for a half bottle, fwiw

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#6 Post by Mark Golodetz »

A tablespoon or two is enough for most dishes. It also keeps in the fridge for at least 3 months, so it is pretty economical.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#7 Post by Mike Grammer »

He's right about it keeping. I love these wines too, though I have a slight preference for Vin de Paille from Jura. Liquid pralines & cream.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#8 Post by Mark Henderson »

Aren't there some oxidative ('sous voile') styles of Côtes de Jura that one could buy. I don't know these styles well (though have loved the few Vin Jaune & Chateau Chalon wines I've tried), but I'm guessing that these would offer some of the characters of Vin Jaune but at a much more cooking friendly price?

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#9 Post by SteveG »

Mark Henderson wrote: February 23rd, 2021, 3:23 pm Aren't there some oxidative ('sous voile') styles of Côtes de Jura that one could buy. I don't know these styles well (though have loved the few Vin Jaune & Chateau Chalon wines I've tried), but I'm guessing that these would offer some of the characters of Vin Jaune but at a much more cooking friendly price?
Probably lots of them but specifically all of the white wines of Domaine de Montbourgeau are oxidative, and delicious. Many manzanilla pasada Sherries would probably work as well for much less coin.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#10 Post by dcornutt »

Old vin jaune with chestnut soup is a sublime combination. Give me Macle or Chateau Chalon. Plus make them older too! Oxidative wines require the right kinds of food. There are some amazing chicken recipes with vin jaune. It is one of the best cooking wines. Very expensive for that however.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#11 Post by Keith Levenberg »

A. So wrote: February 23rd, 2021, 2:42 pm
Mark Golodetz wrote: February 23rd, 2021, 11:40 am It started off with a chicken with morels, Vin jaune and cream over rice. I poured a small glass of the Vin Jaune Henri Mairie 2008, and liked it. Faintly oxidative but a little vestigial fruit, nuts and honey. Long finish.

But what an amazing addition to the chicken. It did not stop there, adding layers of flavor to Kung Pao chicken, lentil soup with Iberico ham and my breakfast fried rice dish (bacon eggs, onions and mushrooms). I no longer have Sherry near the oil in the kitchen, too simple. I love the extra complexity the VJ brings to the dish.
Kung pao chicken requires the use of shaoxing wine which has a similar oxidative flavour profile to vin jaune. I've read recipes where either dry sherry or vin jaune are used as substitutes if shaoxing is not available.
I am having trouble wrapping my head around what subbing vin jaune for shaoxing rice wine would taste like, but it is not whetting the appetite. No reason for it anyway - they have shaoxing rice wine on Amazon Prime these days!

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#12 Post by LasseK »

Mark Henderson wrote: February 23rd, 2021, 3:23 pm Aren't there some oxidative ('sous voile') styles of Côtes de Jura that one could buy. I don't know these styles well (though have loved the few Vin Jaune & Chateau Chalon wines I've tried), but I'm guessing that these would offer some of the characters of Vin Jaune but at a much more cooking friendly price?
Yes there is. You can find 'sous voile' wines in the 1-6+ years range, and with less time 'sous voile' comes less risk, which influence the price a lot.

On another note, then the only real way to enjoy Vin Jaune, is with 24-36 month Comte cheese 😉
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#13 Post by A Songeur »

Vin jaune works marvels... but there are much cheaper alternative in Jura some cheap savagnin with oxidation can be found for around 10 euros or even less.
A guy from Jura sells some wine called "Le Morilleur Delices des Chamois" at a market close to our place in Provence for even less money and the name of the wine is fit for purpose... Obviously, another Jura dish is Truite (trout) au vin Jaune... awesome and a treat in restaurants in Jura... especially if you get wild trout...
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#14 Post by Mark Golodetz »

I think it is interesting as a group, there are people who spend hundreds sometimes more on a bottle, and most people purchase wine that costs a minimum of twenty to thirty dollars. It seems strange that here we are looking for cheaper alternatives to Vin Jaune that are almost as good to add to our food and make the dish really special. The half bottle was around $30, and I will probably get six portions or so, so $5 each. To give that much extra oomph to chicken with morels for instance, in relative terms, $5 seems a small price to pay.
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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#15 Post by Phil T r o t t e r »

LasseK wrote: February 24th, 2021, 12:27 am On another note, then the only real way to enjoy Vin Jaune, is with 24-36 month Comte cheese 😉
Classic but perfect, I agree!
A Songeur wrote: February 24th, 2021, 4:41 am Obviously, another Jura dish is Truite (trout) au vin Jaune... awesome and a treat in restaurants in Jura... especially if you get wild trout...
I would not have thought of trout and it's the first time I've heard of this recipe. Mind you, the last time I was in Jura, I think I was 8 years old. Thank you! I'll have to try this. I also assume it takes a lot less vin jaune than the traditional recipe for chicken or rabbit!

The first time I had vin jaune was in a Montreal restaurant (Toqué). It was served to accompany a seared foie gras with cranberry compote, date paste, burnt pecans and a scotch caramel. It's one of those plates and pairing that I still remember to this day. This started my love affair with vin jaune.

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#16 Post by Ron Slye »

Any recipes for the above referenced dishes? Or a good website or cookbook you would recommend to start to experiment with the cuisine of the region?

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Re: Vin Jaune: a good wine but the most amazing cooking wine.

#17 Post by Ramon C »

I know that cheese Comté would be ideal, especially in Poligny, but you'll be missing out on a real deal meal.

The most perfect pairing with Vin Jaune and/or Chateau Chalon for me had been the Coq-au-Vin-Jaune once at the recently-closed (Covid19 casualty?) and excellent wine-industry restaurant La Balance Mets et Vins in Arbois and the same dish with lunch at a bistro in beautiful Baume-les-Messieurs just outside Chateau Chalon. Simply memorable and had proven to be very hard to get the same dish level anywhere else outside of the region.
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