2018 Sidewood Shiraz Adelaide Hills. The scarlet infused purple color not all that close to opacity, nice vivacity and cleanliness in the glass. Noticeable grassiness to the nose, dried tobacco, allusion to bell pepper, backroad brown dirt, kindling ash, oak presence is minimal, the plum, red currant to cherry scents wiry unto lean. Light-bodied, has tannic grip which slows its progression across the palate. Here the oak cream more present, maybe because the tart red fruits wither even further. Adds in a mint to menthol touch, not unexpected. Dried cigar wrapper. White grapefruit, the finish is quite sour. Insofar as I am supposed to like this because it is not an “oozemonster,” by the same token it does need more fruit to balance out its general savory, sour profile. (Screwcap)
2017 Zenaida Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles Templeton Gap District. Offers a garnet to violet coloration which gets darn close to magenta, fine cleanliness. Expected stuff like milk chocolate and molasses alongside plum, cassis scents and got them, floral musk, violets, a little meatiness, this noted it’s not all that pushy nor flamboyant and finds a steady stride. In the mouth it’s more medium than full-bodied, backing spices go off like pop rocks through the attack. The black fruits thick but not gluey, suffocate the oak well enough and to be fair, it isn’t obscenely oaky anyway. Minty with caramel undertones. Tannins feel sticky and lack crispness, tend to impair flow. Bought on the secondary market because the price was indecently low versus frontline, exceeded expectations. (Screwcap)
2019 Bedrock Sonoma Valley Bedrock Heritage. Medium level of darkness to the purple core, much more ruby to magenta throughout, not excessively saturated. Registering a good bit of sandy earth, dirt, ash in the nose, tart cranberry, rhubarb, blackberry fruit scents, mild grassiness, while there is a pleasant scrubbing sensation in play not finding much lift or “dance” to it. Light-bodied, the tannin manages to stay proportionate and thus not overly structure. The sandy dirt, dried clay aspect continues, however, enough floral mist and citrus zest to bring a spark. Same tart berry fruit. I am perpetually flummoxed by the Bedrock Heritage, not really knowing what I am looking for and not getting clear clues either. As a matter of personal taste, across their “heritage” lineup I find this one among the least enjoyable. Approximately 50% Zinfandel, remainder unspecified percentages of Carignane, Mataro, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir de la Calmette, Tempranillo, Trousseau, Mission, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon.
2019 Bedrock Sonoma Valley Old Hill Ranch Heritage. Garnet infused purple, light saturated glow, very good clarity as well as surface shine. Is clarity a good or bad thing? Youthfully fruity nose like you went into a grocery store and started squeezing every berry you saw, light briny patina, violets, buttered popcorn and toffee, glance of menthol, primary enough that it seems unfair to judge the aromas. Medium-bodied, closer to light, manages to glide well even as the tannin adds friction. Medicinal, pickle juice, pine sap, lavender, lilacs, orange juice, needs a conductor in a bad way. Ripe rhubarb, strawberry, blueberry, red cherry to apple fruit. Palate evokes same conclusion as nose, too scattered to render a firm assessment. Hopefully this is evidence of youthful attention deficit rather than an underlying volatility. Unspecified percentages of Zinfandel, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Syrah, Alicante Bouschet, Mollard, Etraire de la Dui, Persan, others.
2000 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mt. Veeder. Fully opaque core which today is more black than purple, then and heavyset red clay rims, dull (bottle had been stood up for days). The nose comes across like it came out of a panini machine, all pressed together, plum to cassis fruit, spice box, potpourri, sage, mildly damp earth, asphalt, manages a last second lift with a smoky, burnt bacon note. Medium-bodied, consistent throughout but marred by a certain flatness, never gets the engine revved up. Texturally this is in line with my previous experience back in 2012, and even back to 2002, lacks natural souplesse. The cherry, currant, plum fruit chugging along like it was born yesterday. Cedar, spice, orange peel, smidgen of mocha. Tannin sort of awkward. Seems to be on a slow and glacially evolving plateau which will outlast me.
1997 Seavey Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley. The closer you get the blacker the core looks, fine clarity for its age, broad and fully bricked red rims, looks its age. Cedar, saddlesoap, potpourri and poor dirt featured in the nose, touch of soy, a little funkier than I prefer, the black currant to black cherry scents packing its bag to leave home for the final time. Light to medium-bodied, more balanced here and derives a nice charge from the acidity. Tarry, leathery with a soft green streak which might turn off some. The fruit takes one big swing at you but it’s a glancing blow. In any event for the best as trading on subtlety its best tactic now. Last tasted in 2011 and the general profile hasn’t changed much, just losing grip as the years go by.
2006 Caduceus Cellars Nagual de la Naga. Black core, opaque, fully bricked red rims. Smoky, leathery nose, plenty of old oak, has a rubbery edge to it as well, fading cherry, blackberry fruit, not much else to say about unless one is in a pissy mood. Full-bodied, thankfully nondescript and basically “red wine.” Lays flat on the tongue, tannin pulverized into a clump, no lack of wood tannin. Adequate blueberry, blackberry, cherry fruit left. Maybe a slight floral or minty swipe at the end. Did not reward extended analysis and hence stopped analyzing. Primarily Sangiovese (sourced from California?) blended with Aglianico and/or Sagrantino Sourced from Arizona.
2003 Anakota Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley Helena Montana Vineyard. Just about jet black, thin dark brick red rims, looks quite aged. Smells like if you put a bunch of oak in a wood chipper to make mulch, molasses crisp, burnt marshmallows, mint, the black currant, cherry scents worrisomely dried out, not finding much to enjoy here. Medium-bodied, moderate improvement in the mouth with overly drying tannin and a generally clumpy texture. Sour blackberry, black cherry fruit more or less lasts through the mid-palate. Floral, splash of cedar, ginger spice, tobacco leaf. Almost wishing there was more oak cream to fill out the gaps. Tried to give it time to unwind, open up but the more I sipped it the more fatigued the palate became. Such is life.
1999 Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau. Gauzy brick red to orange clay, like rust water in a glass, purple hues only available from a distance. Complex nose of pickle brine, wool, wet cedar, orange marmalade, dried ginger root, beef jerky, high-toned enough that the mixed berry scents do not settle into place. Medium-bodied, quite supple and expected more volatility based on the nose, acidity continues to bring freshness. Still, the strawberry, raspberry to boysenberry fruit touched now and then by prune notes. Leather, damp wool, salt lick, iodine and brick but not leaving a “vin de garde” impression. Spiced orange peel, lavender. This far into it decided it was best to stop typing and start drinking. 65% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% Cinsault.
2012 Clos del Rey Côtes du Roussillon Villages. Clean dark purple core, not opaque but hums with a dark warmth, fat crimson red rims. Some initial flatulence, rubber stink to the nose, resolves in favor of leather, packed black earth, pressed flowers and mixed berry to red currant fruit scents, perhaps just too dense for its own good. In the mouth it’s chewy but a lot more fluid, tannin releases and the acidity flushes it through the finish. Lavender, anise sort of spicy lift, residual white grapefruit. Something like wet cedar planks you grill with. No makeup, here I am, take me or leave me. Good purity to the dark fruit and does not seem to have been diminished by age. That said, my best guess is that it hit its apex 3-4 years ago. 60% Carignan, 40% Grenache. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2019 Domaine des Chers Saint-Amour Vieilles Vignes. Pure ruby-violet, youthfully vivid, rims flushed red, very attractive. The nose gushes minerals, parched dirt, dried tobacco leaf and grass, lemon husks left sitting in the sun for a week, smelling it “liquid” is the furthest thing from your mind, the strawberry, cherry scents almost register as a shock. Light-bodied, at times seems too structured for the primary material, the acidity and tannin waste no time clamping down. Air time does create floor space for the strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb, blueberry fruit to shake loose. Very lemony. The chalk to mineral dust omnipresent. Notes of garden herbs and basic grass. Touch of cocoa at the end adds flesh and give. This could turn out to be something better with age if the structure decides to become content being the frame and not the picture. (Composite Cork)
2019 Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Cuvée Vieilles Vignes. The violet core doesn’t put up much of a fight against the more pinkish magenta hues, more solid appearance than squeaky clean. Damp wildflowers, leather, poor sandy dirt give the nose a semi-rugged profile, sour pulped lemons, densely packed cherry, blackberry to raspberry scents, light suggestion of merde, isn’t fighting you but isn’t welcoming you in either. Full-bodied, plump yet with more than enough tannin to give it shape. White grapefruit, cola, cocoa to more of the leather, earthy side. “Prettier” than the nose but in keeping with previous experience that this is usually an awkward bottling right out of the starting gate. No lack of darker fruit. Slows down appreciably through the finish. It’s a big boy and based on a sampling of well aged bottles would expect good things way down the road.
2018 Château du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Tuffe. Gauzy garnet to violet hue, well saturated given general transparency. You could cut up a bell pepper and stuff the slices in your nostrils and you wouldn’t smell it more, I don’t mind at all but have to mention, stone and poor dirt, dare I say ashen, tobacco, slowly unveils a substantial core of cherry, currant fruit scents, excellent staying power. In the mouth it’s medium-bodied and squarely set by the tannin, chewy texture. Iodine, stone, leather. Again with the caveats but if pyrazines don’t send you running for the hills they are better integrated here than in the nose. After awhile could argue a mild floral lift develops. This is a sub $20 bottle and as such shouldn’t be held to a too high “category mistake” standard, I’d buy it again to have with a stew or such. (Composite Cork: Diam5)
2017 Cave de Roquebrun Languedoc Col de la Ramière. Basic purple core, just about opaque, rims deepening into a crimson red, unblemished liquid. The nose is not shy about bringing the funk, like someone lit a fox on fire and it’s running around all crazy like, hot asphalt, very slowly gets past this and the merde to a dewy florality, molten molasses, and dense dark fruits. Medium-bodied, sets itself perhaps a bit too widely, tannic spine cannot hold it together. Good sweetness in the black fruits, able to distract in part from the volatility. Orange citrus, pressed flowers, menthol, not sufficient to balance out the ledger. Not in a generous enough mood to give it a pass, isn’t a particularly clean wine. 45% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% Carignan.
1998 Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Hengst. Dark amber in color yet with an exquisite shine to it, solid appearance in the glass, close to imposing. Nose of sous bois, fallen pine needles, orange marmalade, heavy cream, rubber, poached apricots to pineapple and mango, certainly of an age but smells more like a middle aged wine and nothing tired about it. Medium-bodied yet with the texture of cement, didn’t get to have this young but I’d guess it has shed considerable weight. Emphasis on the orange, tangerine to lemon citrus, balances out the more honeyed touch well. Feels like it has uncommonly strong acidity. Has reached the stage where you get the ultimate payoff — mushroom. But it’s not funky nor in any way “vegetal.” Quince, papaya, apricot to even cherry fruit. Here too it doesn’t seem fully matured but still happy I got it at this stage than post apex.
2017 Pithon-Paillé Anjou Mozaïk Chenin Blanc. Full gold color, on the dull side, not much loss at the rims. Nose on the blunt side, hard to get below the surface, fresh pear, apple, apricot scents, gently consistent smokiness, seashells and chalk, echo of honey, no whipped cream nor lactose like notes. Medium-bodied, even blunter here, this despite the acidity packing some punch. Lemon citrus shows better, matches the salinity and chalkiness well. Same basic fruit array with a more tropical veneer and tartness. Basically, the flavors are there and it’s clean enough. Just lacks nimbleness and can only see this getting worse over coming years. Fine for what it is.
2019 A.J. Adam Riesling Dhroner Hofberg Kabinett AP #14. Pale straw gold color but has more than enough shine to give it glass presence, some hue loss at the rims. Very pleasant smokiness and rubbery notes to the nose, mild minerality, in the end centerstage yielded to the powdered sugar/limeade element and honey dappled peach, cherry, strawberry scents, but if you walk away and come back in a few that smokiness sneaks right back into the driver’s seat. Waffled at first but going with medium-bodied over light-bodied, there’s just too much ripeness in the fruit causing palate saturation. Sugary enough that would not be surprised to learn it includes a bit of juice declassified down. That said, the acidity in on point and allows moments of savory pucker throughout. Loaded with pink grapefruit, lime citrus and rosewater. I would not consider this ageless but has enough cheek structure to go a good decade with upside.
2018 Alexakis Assyrtiko Crete. Basic straw yellow color, above average shine without diminishing visual solidity. More punch than lasting density to the nose, the initial chalky stoniness and saline eclipsed by a damp herbaceousness that now and then seems vegetal, snap pea, the mixed white citrus doesn’t make it into second gear, pineapple, green apple, star fruit, passion fruit scents. Medium-bodied, too muscular for the primary material and thus comes off as underfruited. Same green streak, in part balanced out by a powdered sugar aspect. Smoky, sandy finish. Too rough around the edges for my taste but in no way a flawed wine or such. (Screwcap: Stelvin)
2015 San Felice Toscana Vigorello. Scarlet infuses the purple core, the rims show a strong brick red and look older than the core by a good shot. Sinewy nose that almost shortchanges the pleasing floral dimension, lavender, black currant and cherry scents, cedar, minor leather swipe, attractive yet leaves you with the impression its best is yet to come. Medium-bodied, firm while capable of release, has an astringent streak which could become trouble over time. Layered ripeness in the plum, cherry, blackberry fruit, still blunt finish. Leather, smoke, tar, has plenty of bottom register. Maybe some grapefruit at the end. Would gamble on waiting 6-8 years to pop the cork on another bottle. 35% Pugnitello, 30% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot.
2018 Musar Bekaa Valley Jeune. Well saturated ruby-magenta to violet, not especially dark, attractive presence. While there is a wet wool element to the nose, on the main it’s red fruited candy and green apple Jolly Rancher, leather and tar notes never fully assert themselves. Light-bodied and I would go so far as to call it dilute, practically has no finish. Never quite figured out the odd mix of plum, strawberry, apple, blackberry fruit as it was gone too soon. Tannin outsized for the primary material. Kind of Indian cuisine spiciness to it. Extended air time does little to resolve things for the better. I enjoy Musar well enough when it’s on but this is a disappointment, even allowing for it being a young vine entry level wine. 50% Cinsault, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.
2019 Vincent Wine Company Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Gauzy cranberry red to dark pink in color, has a nice warm hum to it. There’s a fuzzy, tingly texture in the nostrils, cola, nutmeg, naval orange elements, a stony dust storm lifts the otherwise sappy cherry to mixed berry scents. Medium-bodied, layers itself thinly again and again on the the palate like it you were applying shellac. Great buoyancy to the strawberry, cherry, raspberry fruit, more juice than snap. Again that medicinal to cola bean lift. Feel acidity pushing levers in the background but the structure doesn’t leap out at you. Good blend of lemon and orange citrus. It’s Oregon glou-glou! This got lost in some boxes and had meant to try earlier, quite happy to have found it. (Composite Cork)
2017 Salem Wine Co. Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir. Dense violet core, rose pink rims, darker on the whole than might be expected. Good deal of spice and cola to the nose, the fruit on the darker side of the spectrum and shows little perfume or lift, ripe naval orange juice, there’s a lot there but to me clumsy. Full-bodied, even spicier here with a strong citrus bite. Registering more tannin than acidity, lessens the freshness. Thick earthiness, stony aspect then a subtle pickled note. The blackberry, black cherry fruit not that juicy, presents sourness for effect. Moment of mocha, not getting any substantial oak. Wouldn’t use it as a casual sipper, better for heavier food.