TN: 2013 Angelo Papagni Alicante Bouschet (USA, California, Central Valley, Madera)

Adam_Frisch · February 11, 2021, 2:48am

2013 Angelo Papagni Alicante Bouschet - USA, California, Central Valley, Madera (2/10/2021)
Always fun to try some AB.

A nose that could be a Cab. Straight out of the decanter I get a thin attack with a swelling mid-to-finish mouthfeel. After some time, it evens out a bit, but is still on the thin side in the beginning. I get a lot of secondary stuff, chocolate, etc and some chalky tannins, but not tons of fruit. Some unsweet maraschino notes perhaps (if there is such a thing) and some cured meat. Not overly oaky, but it’s there. For price, a good value. (88 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Adam_Frisch · August 2, 2021, 3:22am

Just had the 2012 tonight. And it was absolutely singing. Angelo Papagni has been making Alicante Bouschet for at least 45 years and it’s just so encouraging to see what AB can do - it’s built for aging. I see the same thing in my own AB, how it has a pretty long, meaty, almost bloody phase during elevage and first years of release, only to after about 3 years turn a corner and evolve into something different and more elegant.

This wine had a mouthful of dark forest fruit, built up (but fine) tannins and a wonderful end. It’s kind of at its peak, I would say, and I wouldn’t hold on to this for more than a few more years if you have any. These wines are also a bargain on the secondary market, so don’t hesitate. Much preferred this to the 2013 - tonight this was a 92pts wine. Great stuff.

Rich_Brown · August 2, 2021, 6:44am

Love seeing a note on this producer! A handful of years ago I was able to snag a whole bunch of Angelo Papagni Alicante Bouschet, Charbano, and Barbera from 1973, 1975, and 1978 (including magnums) and they’ve been great! I honestly didn’t even realize that they were still making wine, but the label is the exact same! Will have to check in on one soon.

Thanks for the note!

Edit: Ha! Just realized that the CT generated picture was actually the one that I uploaded…so no wonder the label looked the same

Drew_Goin · August 2, 2021, 3:59pm

Just had the 2012 tonight. And it was absolutely singing. Angelo Papagni has been making Alicante Bouschet for at least 45 years and it’s just so encouraging to see what AB can do - it’s built for aging. I see the same thing in my own AB, how it has a pretty long, meaty, almost bloody phase during elevage and first years of release, only to after about 3 years turn a corner and evolve into something different and more elegant.

This wine had a mouthful of dark forest fruit, built up (but fine) tannins and a wonderful end. It’s kind of at its peak, I would say, and I wouldn’t hold on to this for more than a few more years if you have any. These wines are also a bargain on the secondary market, so don’t hesitate. Much preferred this to the 2013 - tonight this was a 92pts wine. Great stuff.

Thanks for the tasting note, Adam!!

I’m confused. Do you mean to say that Ali Bou has an extraordinary capacity to age, but that this particular vintage will not make old bones?

I exchanged a couple of emails with Demetrio Papagni a couple of years ago. I ended up getting a couple of bottles of the 2001 vintage - the final wine produced from the family’s 100-year-old vineyard.

Here’s what Mr Papagni wrote:

“…Regarding the Alicante, although my Father started commercially making Alicante Wine in 1973 and my Grandfather grew it during Prohibition, my 2001 Alicante Wine (see website) was the last vintage from the same vineyard where the vines were a century old! The property has since been developed into homes, however, I have taken the wood from those exact vines and planted them on my ranch in Madera Ca. approx. 5 miles from my winery.”

I drank one bottle a couple of months after arriving. The 2001 Papagni Alicante Bouschet yielded delicate notes of roses, road tar, as well as flavors of fresh strawberries and red raspberries.

The remaining bottle is tucked away. I am fairly certain that it will live for several more years.

Eric_Ifune · August 2, 2021, 10:15pm

The greatest Alicante Bouchets are made in the Alentejo in Portugal. Huge aging potential.

Adam_Frisch · August 3, 2021, 2:36am

Thanks for the tasting note, Adam!!

I’m confused. Do you mean to say that Ali Bou has an extraordinary capacity to age, but that this particular vintage will not make old bones?

I exchanged a couple of emails with Demetrio Papagni a couple of years ago. I ended up getting a couple of bottles of the 2001 vintage - the final wine produced from the family’s 100-year-old vineyard.

Here’s what Mr Papagni wrote:

“…Regarding the Alicante, although my Father started commercially making Alicante Wine in 1973 and my Grandfather grew it during Prohibition, my 2001 Alicante Wine (see website) was the last vintage from the same vineyard where the vines were a century old! The property has since been developed into homes, however, I have taken the wood from those exact vines and planted them on my ranch in Madera Ca. approx. 5 miles from my winery.”

I drank one bottle a couple of months after arriving. The 2001 Papagni Alicante Bouschet yielded delicate notes of roses, road tar, as well as flavors of fresh strawberries and red raspberries.

The remaining bottle is tucked away. I am fairly certain that it will live for several more years.

Thanks Drew! Interesting note about Demetrio. It was his Madera one I had and interestingly, the 2012 is 13.5% and the 2013 14.5% ABV. I much preferred the 2012, so it seems like the lower alcohol adds elegance.

No, I meant they do age well! AB can be a little shapeshifting and enter phases, especially young. With age they really evolve into something quite nice and they seem to reward patience.