TN: 1982 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva (Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo)

An honestly shockingly beautiful nose. Huge rose perfume, cherry, some balsam, tar, and ferrous notes on the nose. There’s even some Giacosa like hard candy that carries from the nose to palate. The nose was beguiling and truly captivating. The palate was merely outstanding with more classic red fruited nebbiolo, perfume, subtle balsam and ferrous notes. It is detailed, focused, and drinking at peak. Really beautifully balanced with freshness and lift coupled with depth and intensity. Very long on the back end. A lovely, classically proportioned Barolo. These older Valentino/ RdM wines can be pretty special. This one certainly was. Drinking very well, but I can’t think of a reason to hold. 94 overall, much more if the palate had delivered on the nose’s promise. Well done! (94 pts.)
(94 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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Hi Todd, sounds lovely and fully mature. thanks for the note

Brodie

Thanks, Todd.
I’m standing up a bottle of the 1985 Riserva “Vigna Masdi”. Does Rocche dei Manzoni produce multiple bottlings of Riserva or does the labeling simply change each year depending on where that vintage’s reserve grapes come from? Also, was there any concern with the long double-decant for the 1982? I’d like to take our 1985 bottle on a long car ride ahead of a dinner, so it’s not an option unless long decant is recommended.
Regards,
Peter

Peter,

I’m sorry, but I don’t know what the vineyard sources were or how they designated the riservas back then. I have only had the 74, 78, 82 Riservas (not vineyard designate) and the 90 Vigna Big as a single vineyard wine from that era from them.

That said, I would strongly recommend double decanting in the AM for sediment. You probably know this, but what I am saying is decant it, sacrifice the last couple three ounces once the sediment shows while pouring it, dump that part out, rinse the bottle, then put the clean wine back in the bottle and recork it. I would have very little fear of that harming the wine. I would suspect traveling with the unopened bottle prior to dinner would make for a poor outcome. If you are traveling with the wine, the risk is much greater shaking up the fine sediment and the wine will be bitter and thin.

'85 is a softer year than '82, and it will likely be a more mature wine than the '82, but I would not be afraid. Other’s have different opinions, but I cannot think of too many times that doing a double decant like this has harmed an older nebbiolo, and many more where it dramatically helped. Good luck!

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A various blend of Riserva, Vigna Mesdi, Big di Big, and de l’Roul was produced throughout the 80s and into the 90s.

Lovely wine Todd. One of the truly early adopters of barrique, and enthusiastically so. I believe the wine was completely traditionally vinified, so they started with great juice, but somehow they worked magic with the small wood. I’ve found 82 and 78 to be the best vintages for this wine, and they’ve been drinking well for 20 years now. Inventory says I have one 82 left!

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An under-recognized cousin was the Barbera-dominant Bricco Manzoni, especially the 1989 and 1990 vintages.

Following up…
Our 1985 Podere Rocche dei Manzoni Barolo Riserva Vigna Masdi showed beautifully on Saturday. Before a long car ride (and 6 hours before drinking), I double decanted off the sediment. Minus less than one ounce of sludge, the wine was quite clear.

Delicious red fruits. Bright and balanced; I wonder if this was deemed as a low-acid early drinker in its youth. I’m sure that better tasters would be able to pick up the oak, but there was nothing apparent for me (and certainly no caramel, etc.). Great perfume (more mineral than floral), great package. Very little tannic grip, so I’d drink 'em now. Unrated because it was such a special occasion to be with family that I can’t be as objective as critics. newhere [cheers.gif]
Regards,
Peter