TN: 1989 Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape

1989 Château de la Gardine Châteauneuf-du-Pape – I enjoy the wine though I absolutely loathe the bottles, which make it impossible to stack in a bin. If you haven’t seen one, it looks as if they designed it to be an irregular polygonal shape that is completely unstackable on their sides. The next worst bottles are extra long Alsatians or German wines that sit stacked for long periods before suddenly casting themselves into the abyss in a last suicidal attempt at freedom, usually crashing down on something much more expensive in a bin lower down (I foiled them by placing thick strips of foam rubber cut from insulation batts under the necks)

This is a tasting note on a wine I didn’t know I had. When I moved four years ago, we organized the new cellar (two people on laptops cataloguing and two of us stowing wine according to the plan I had come up with). We were pretty accurate but obviously couldn’t check every single bottle.

I wanted to try a bottle of the 1995 Ch. de la Gardine to see how it was coming along. To my surprise the bottle I pulled from the bin said 1989 on it instead! I doubt I’d have kept that particular bottle this long had I known about it but the only thing to do was pull a cork and see what it was up to.

A little bit in the glass to assess colour showed a fairly light tint akin to a mature Burgundy, though it seemed much darker when poured in more volume. The nose was old mature fruit and forest floor – mushroom and herbs. It was well balanced, had sufficient fruit and was an elegant wine showing a slight astringency at the end, which was medium long. A bit of tar showed up in the nose after awhile and the wine seemed to take on weight and complexity as it was allowed to oxidize. We drank it over a couple of hours as there was no point keeping it around until it inevitably crashed

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I’m kind of convinced that the reason de la Gardine is harder to find (than its quality might suggest) is simply the irritation of retailers at their bottles. A store which uses racks for storing/selling some of their wine might just pass on them.

The only time I ever saw them on the shelf was at big NYC shops. Still wouldn’t mind trying something recent as its been an easy decade plus since their strange shaped bottles have been on my table!

Maybe the same guy came up with this idiotic design as suggested that Faustino glue fake cellar dust to their bottles, or the Gattinara guys (Travaglini) should use this bottle (Gardine has their bottles made in Italy, perhaps by the same outfit that does Travaglini’s):

And what of the bocksbeutel, another one that’s impossible to stack.

great image Bill, made me smile. I know what exactly you mean. I ended up putting little cardboard pieces under the necks to prop them up. Now they have their owns racks but still stick out and wobble a bit.

cheers Brodie

At least much of the wine going into the old goat scrotum bottles isn’t that ageworthy - a few Franken wines I guess, but the rest are Mateus quality.

I even dislike the slope sides cabernet bottles the Americans started using for premium wines to set them apart - and make them hard to stack.

And does anyone recall those idiotic bottles used by wineries like Mondavi and Kendall Jackson for awhile, with cast in place large glass lips that prevented anyone using many sorts of corkscrews on them. Wonder whose bright idea those were?

I think those flanged bottled of Mondavi era were meant to harken back to older times. There are a few Riojanes using them now.

Those are least are mostly harmless although I can’t use my infrequently summoned tabletop cork puller on those.

A couple of years ago I drank a 1998 Cuvee des Generations from De La Gardine which was fabulous. Rich fruit, a hint of menthol and a long finish. A real winner!

I continued my cellar cleaning exercise last night and had a bottle of 1990 Jean Deydier et Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Clefs d’Or. Wasn’t a patch on the Gardine!

I have that exact bottle in my wine fridge. The bottles next to it are saying WTF?
And its going to have to stay there for a few more years as I don’t think it is even close to ready.

A traditionally made CdP, that few have experienced, is one of my favorites!

The Cuvee des Generations, made in the '89, '90, '95 and '98 vintages have been a pleasure to drink! Again, I enjoy very mature wine!

The following is info on De La Gardine, including reviews of the Cuvee des Generations bottling by Mr. Robert Parker!

De La GARDINE

Chateauneuf du Pape “Cuvee des Generations”
Ownership-3.7 Acres, 500+ Cases produced (First bottling-250 cases, 1989)
Average age of vines, one hundred+ years
60% Grenache, 12% Mouvedre, 15% Syrah & 13% other varietals

The Chateauneuf du Pape vineyards of Gardine are situated in the area around the chateau in the lieux-dits called “La Gardine”, “Combes Masques” and “Grand Dèves”.

The vines at some parcels were planted around 1925.

Some of the parcels are covered with the well known big stones, some are more sandy and some are with lime stones.

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Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Générations Gaston Philippe
From 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvedre & 20% Syrah.
The Grenache vines are about 100 years old and grown at “La Gardine”.
Aged in new barriques (85%) or one year old barriques for 14 to 18 months.

Yield: 18 hl./ha. Production 6.000 to 10.000 bottles.

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1998-A candidate for one of the most backward wines of the vintage, and still needing probably 8 to 10 more years of cellaring, the Brunel family tends to make this cuvee to age as well as a top Bordeaux. It is one of the exceptions to the rule in Chateauneuf du Pape. The 1998 has a dark plum, ruby, purple color, with notes of graphite, chocolate, espresso roast, black berry, and cassis. Aromatically, one doesn’t see much Chateauneuf du Pape character, but the oak has been totally absorbed, the wine is full bodied, and I suspect more and more typicity will evolve as it hits its adolescent state. Forget it for another 3 to 5 years, as this is a wine capable of lasting 30+ years. Drink: 2015 to 2045. Last tasted, 6/10. Rating, 94+. RP

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1995-The opaque purple colored 1995 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Generations could, aromatically speaking, pass for a top first or second growth Medoc. Lead pencil, pain grille, and cassis aromas jump from the glass. With airing more jammy black cherry and pepper notes emerge. The wine is fabulously rich and full bodied, and intentionally made in an international style that downplays the typicity of the appellation. This profound, layered wine possesses awesome richness and length, as well as 20+ years of aging potential. The Brunel family has been making terrific Chateauneuf du Pape over the last decade, and both 1995 cuvees are very strong efforts. I was unable to taste the 1996s. Drink: 2000 to 2020. Last tasted, 10/97. Rating, 92. RP

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1990-The 1990 Cuvee des Generations is black purple colored, with a closed but promising bouquet of vanillin, smoke, minerals and black currants. The concentration and length are dazzling in this large scaled, tannic, blockbuster wine that will last for twenty to twenty five years+. Drink: now to 2021. Last tasted, 8/96. Rating, 93+. RP

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1989-No review. 1989 was the first year Cuvee des Generations was produced. RP

Actually, Frankenwein is the worst…