TNs: Some wines at a housewarming

Had the chance to taste wines way above my pay grade thanks to generous friends at a lovely housewarming. I was in the minority but the 90 Sociando convincingly beat out the Sassicaia for WOTN for me. The 58 Cos and 79 L’Evangile were more interesting academically than anything else, but for these wines you just have to step back and admire their history (and the fact that the Cos was the same age as my mum!).

  • 2014 Laherte Frères Champagne Blanc des Blancs Extra Brut Les Grands Crayeres - France, Champagne (31/1/2021)
    100% Chardonnay, 2-4g/l dosage. Green apples, wonderful balance of acidity and verve that I like in BdBs. This is a big champagne, but more in terms of intensity instead of power. Major step up from their entry-level BdB, I need to find more of this.
  • NV Huré Frères Champagne Mémoire Extra Brut - France, Champagne (31/1/2021)
    Perpetual blend going back 35 years that makes this a richer chamapgne than the Laherte with more creaminess and brioche. Didn’t mind this but thought the weight and fruit weren’t that well-integrated, the red apples come across a little disjointed on the finish.
  • 1990 Château Sociando-Mallet - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc (31/1/2021)
    Surprisingly youthful still, I guessed a big vintage like 1996 or 2005 but didn’t think that it could have been a 90 given the vibrancy of the wine. Crystalline red fruit and cassis, bright acidity backed up by fine but a little rustic tannins. Won’t win a style contest but it is an honestly made old school claret that I loved. If anyone needed convincing about the wonders of Bordeaux or aged wine, this should do it.
  • 1990 Pierre André au Château de Corton André Corton-Renardes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru (31/1/2021)
    Fully mature, smelled like funky old wine. Tertiary characteristics of mushroom but still a decent amount of red fruit left. Surprisingly light and elegant for a Corton but ultimately not very interesting.
  • 1998 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri Sassicaia Sassicaia - Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia (31/1/2021)
    Thought this was nailed-on left bank Bordeaux. Classic claret nose with a little spice and floral notes, needed lots of air to show its pedigree. Brooding structure, tannins are silky but not too polished, ripe and sweet fruit. Immense power but seemed a little muted and foursquare tonight.
  • 2012 Château Pavie - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru (31/1/2021)
    Very new world on the nose with overwhelming sweet fruits, but slightly more classic on the palate that led me back to Bordaux. Made in a modern ripe style, black and purple fruits with seriously impressive structure. Tightly coiled and has a long way to go yet, but the opulence was verging on over the top for me.
  • 1958 Château Cos d’Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (31/1/2021)
    By far the oldest wine that I’ve tried. Autumnal notes of tea leaves and tobacco, a note of iron that was slightly distracting. Opened up to give a surprising amount of fruit but at the end of the day this was a more interesting academic exercise than anything else.
  • 1979 Château L’Evangile - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol (31/1/2021)
    After being wildly wrong on all previous guesses managed to get somewhere close based on the identity of the previous wines. Guessed a weak vintage from 70s because of the severe lack of fruit that was left and the brick red colour. Similar to the Cos previously, got to admire the history of the wine but wasn’t that stimulating on the palate.