Grand Puy Lacoste 1985 and 1996

Just a couple of date points. I had these over three days, starting with the 96, then the 85, then both together.

GPL 96

Classic Pauillac aromas of cigar box, graphite and cassis, quite a classical mouthful too, although more blackberry than blackcurrant, with a very enjoyable red berry streak midpalate. Quite rich, but in a restrained way, light to medium bodied, elegant (verging perhaps on thin), but with one major problem - the rugged finish. There’s a rather unpleasant astringent side to the finish, leaving a bitter taste, which rather spoils the rest, so for me a very good wine but not a great one. 91 pts

GPL 85

Cigar box again, tobacco, hints of orange peel and leather, blackberry and blackcurrant aromas, plus a slightly smoky feel. Much bigger and fatter than the 96, bright and fruity, lots of cassis, with a powerful second wave of dark cherry and a long blackberry finish. Incredibly youthful still with plenty of verve. 94 pts

Tasting them together was fascinating. The 96 was clearly more refined, the flavours more delineated, but the 85 had more body, more persistence and was more satisfying. The flavour profile was similar, you could tell they were the same wine, but totally different. The 96 was still suffering from the rasping finish which I don’t expect will improve, but had a streak of raspberry it didn’t have the first night and an agreeable freshness mid-palate. The 85 hadn’t budged an inch in terms of body, but next to the 96 it tasted sunnier, more relaxed, perhaps less “well made” but more fun and, well, just more enjoyable.

Nice post as usual, Julian, thanks!
I have some '95; any recent experience there? (I take it less might be expected, but you never know.)

Nice.

I haven’t had the 85 GPL, but it sounds like my kind of wine. I did just have the 96 a few weeks ago and our impressions were quite similar except for the finish which I didn’t find particularly rough. Here’s my note:
1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
A lovely bottle of the 1996 Grand Puy Lacoste. This is wide open and texturally so easy to drink, but it’s showing only secondary development still at age 24. The profile is quite leafy, but eschews any bell pepper, and the body is at most medium. This bottle was in the low 90’s point-wise, and I think we can (finally) say this is what it is. Maybe some more age brings out a bit more depth (doubtful) or complexity (probable) that makes this a little better. But even as is, a delicious and friendly and true Medoc that I thoroughly enjoyed over 2 days.

Here’s my somewhat recent impression of the 96 GPL. I thought it was a lot of fun; definitely nothing bitter or astringent about it. I will admit that it is probably not a “great” wine – it lacks the depth and concentration for that label – but it is a good Bordeaux for my tastes. I’ve had it three times from three different sources, and each one was really good.

• 1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac (10/14/2020)
  Mmm, delicious. Sweet black currant, licorice, cedar and mint. With air a faint hint of barnyard became apparent. Juicy, vibrant, medium-bodied, a little firm; a whisper of tannins noticeable only through the slightly drying finish. Neal Martin called this wine “austere;” I bet he wouldn’t have used that term if he had tried my bottle. I’ve always liked this wine: a classic expression of Bordeaux. A peak experience for my tastes, although it will probably be good a decade from now, just in a different way.

Posted from CellarTracker

I’ve been lucky to taste the 95 four times over the past few years and I like it a lot. It has some of the hardness of 95 and I expect it always will, but it has softened enough so that it’s really enjoyable. For my taste it’s still pretty early in its window; no hurry.

So sorry you didn’t enjoy your GPL 96. A bad bottle maybe.
Glad mine were perfect until now. Still 10 to do. Looking forward.

Cheers all! Joshua, I don’t remember ever trying the 95!

As to the 96, I’m glad that I was unlucky and the rest of you weren’t! It could have been the bottle, it could have been a batch, who knows, but Neal Martin noticed a bit of austerity too (admittedly several years ago). If the current price drops a little I’ll look out for another to try.

I know both wines well. The 1985 and 1996 vintages are very different. Almost all wines from 1985 had been open and drinkable from the very first moment they came on the market. In contrast many 1996 Bordeaux shut down hard. GPL was one of them and depending on storage this wine is still young with no signs of age in color or taste. This is a modern version version of the 1986 vintage and in need of long cellaring. In fact – 1985 and 1996 are as different a vintage as they can be. And one characteristic of GPL must be mentioned IMO. A hefty dose of brett (horse poop).

I love the 1985 GPL more than the 1996 too. At least at the moment. If the 1996 will ever reach the level of the 85? Doubtful but not impossible. As always: time will tell.

Deleted.

Cheers Steen - if you get a chance, the 85 is certainly worth seeking out - tasting a wine from the 80s is a treat in itself and this is still relatively good value compared to others.

Here are my notes from last year.