TN: 1998 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion

A classic, red-fruited beauty, so unlike the modern Les Carmes Haut Brion. Shows that broad red streak that ‘99 reveals, just a bit less depth of the 2000. On the lighter side of medium-weight, crisp acid. Dry earth, gravel. Tannins resolved, short finish.

This is not a blockbuster by any stretch. I put it behind 2000 and 1999, but a very enjoyable, elegant wine, just a little simple. Honest and transparent though.

Drink up.

(90 pts.)

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I love this wine, its launch into the price stratosphere has been disappointing, albeit well deserved.

LOVE IT! But 90? Et tu, Roberte?

Sounds good for a Monday night wine!

How is 98 in Graves/Pessac-Léognan? Is it a vintage more like that of the Medoc or more like that in St. Emilion?

Thanks for the note. Do I read this right and you don’t necessarily like the latest vintages of LCHB? I don’t find them all that “modern” (which is usually translated into very extracted and ripe). Would be interested in your thoughts.

I really have not had enough 98s to make a call on Pessac/Graves. The only others that I recall are Haut Brion and Haut Bailly, both really good, with the Haut Brion being excellent.

It is a modernized version of LCHB but I will concede not along the lines of some of the modern concoctions we have seen last 10 years from some other Chateaux. I do think the Cab Franc plays a big role there, too, to keep the wine in check and add some character (red fruits and very subtle herbaceousness). Have you had LCHB prior to the ownership change? I prefer the older style, but do think the new version can be quite nice. Like the 2016 and 2014 very much. Was not as thrilled with 2015 and 2012. See if you can find a 2010 or 2000 and compare yourself, you will definitely like 2 of the 4 and likely all 4 of them! But they are different.

My note on the 2016:

The only one I have had was Haut Brion and it was fabulous. Your more tepid note made me wonder about the area as a whole.

'98 was an excellent year in Graves.

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1998 was not only a very good / great year in the Graves, it wasn’t recognized that way immediately. Some of the vintage charts from that era had relatively low numerical scores, and years later were bumped up a lot, which I never knew if it was due to a late recognized typo or re-evaluation. But they were much more available on release than the well regarded Pomerols.

At this point most of my 98 Graves are gone, but I hope I might have a LCHB left somewhere. I liked that wine more than Alfert. (and is current releases have sadly ascended out of my normal comfort zone for purchases)

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