TN: 2014 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Pif

A geeky little Loire blend of about 60% Cot and 40% Cab Franc. Reputedly, it has a smidge of Cabernet Sauvignon and some Pineau d’Aunis. I have been trying to track down some of this wine after seeing our resident Jay Miller rave about it from time to time. And finally found some - 3x each of 2013 and 2014. The 2013 lived up to his billings, this 2014 is another level. But then again, I think 2014 as a whole is another level for reds in Loire.

This wine pairs so beautifully with food, had it with grilled chicken thighs. The lean, acid-driven, red-fruit profile cuts right through the thigh-meat fat. Juicy fat with tart reds, just yum. Love the herbaceousness on the nose and body, plus a kiss of brett that brings things home for me. It being Loire, after all. An earthy sense to this wine, like some moist Loire river soil, ripe tobacco leaves, wet undergrowth. Tart but sappy red fruits on the palate, some dark fruit peeking through. I see more Cab Franc than anything else in this wine, but does not quite resemble an archetype Chinon. I’m thinking Lenoir, perhaps. Lots of structure to this wine, I’m not touching my remaining bottles for a handful of years, perhaps starting on the 2013s first. I love this 2014 Loire vintage as a whole. I do not think I have had a single disappointing red.

(92+ pts.)

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Nice note! I’d say definitely drink the 13s first, in my opinion.

ps- after 2009 the Cuvée Cot was wound down and the grapes included in the Pif, so definitely some Cot in the cépage for 2013 and 2014.

man, that’s some kind of unicorn wine, never seen it, neither has wine searcher in the states. But it sounds very nice!

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It’s a secret society.

Pretty much. Sadly, all my Pif is gone, but I’ve got a couple of mixed cases remaining of Cot, Cabernet, and Gamay.

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I got a 6 pack of this from Garnet on release. Have had two bottles so far, one profound and one overly bretty. I believe 2014 was the final vintage for Clos Roche Blanche, glad they went out on a high note - I agree that 2014 was an excellent vintage for Loire reds.

Hey there. Nice note, as always. But I’m curious as to why you chose to use the Durand on this relatively young wine.

who am I, chopped liver?

I had the 2013 and 2014 Pifs together in October and the 2013 was showing much better than the 2014. It was my fourth bottle of the 2014 so far and the first one that has shown signs of being closed down.

How does the Grange Triphaine Cot VV measure up? I have some in order, shipping next week I think.

Oopsy…

Ha. Wasn’t even a conscious thought. I normally don’t on young bottles. I use the big Campagnola for young bottles.

Alfert’s hunting unis! Sounds cool, I don’t think I have ever had one.

I found the 2013 in need of a fair amount of more time, I haven’t had the 2014 recently but sasha told me it was drinking much better for now.

Funny to call such an inexpensive wine that. And anything in my cellar is yours my friend!

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Thanks my friend. First thing I thought, “If I want to try this, I just go knock on Robert’s door!”

Yes, I use the Durand on young bottles, too.

My impression was that it reminded me more of a good young Cahors than a young CRB. Which is not a bad thing but it doesn’t scratch that CRB itch.

Interesting. I tend to use it on corks older than ten years. I love the Durand in its ability to make me feel confident about older bottles, but don’t like how it scars cork.

I don’t think I ever posted my notes from a CRB afternoon with a couple of friends in October so I may as well put them here. We also had a 2012 No. 5 that was showing well.

2014 Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon No. 2 - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (10/18/2020)
Lovely limey goodness. (91 pts.)

2013 Clos Roche Blanche Pineau d’Aunis Touraine Rosé - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (10/18/2020)
Screaming white pepper and celery seed joined by melon on the palate, with lovely intensity and subtle tannin that helps the flavors cling to the palate. Brilliant! (93 pts.)

2014 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Pif - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (10/18/2020)
A little tight and closed at the moment, as opposed to a much brighter 2013 tasted with it. (89 pts.)

1999 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cabernet - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (10/18/2020)
Ample dark fruit laced with savory leather and pyrazine goodness, well supported by fine tannin, really terrific. (93 pts.)

1999 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Cot - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (10/18/2020)
Bright purple fruit but lacking structure and a little diluted on the palate. Time to drink up.

Returning to it after a couple of days, a beautiful black pepper element comes out along with some slightly gritty tannin that brings much better definition to the wine. (88 pts.)

2014 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Cuvée Gamay - France, Loire Valley, Touraine (10/18/2020)
Massively corked. NR (flawed)

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