Recent TNs: 04 Dom Ruinart, 99 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis, 06 Vogue Bonnes Mares

  • 2004 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (1/1/2021)
    Opened on New Year’s Eve to accompany omelets. Pale gold color. Nose of apricot, apple core, white flowers, and stoniness. Ultra-smooth and luxuriant on the palate with layers of buoyant apple, grapefruit, and white pear coursing over the tongue with a bit of petrol and astringency coming at the end. Freshening, tingly acidity and lovely spine. Long finish of crisp white fruit and stone. Definitely makes a statement on how to harmonize elegance and power. Could evolve for many years, but sadly this is my only bottle. (93 pts.)
  • 1999 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo (12/27/2020)
    Decanted for 2 hours. Bricky scarlet ruby. Nose of billowing violets, rose petals, saline, plum pits, faint but searing tar. Layers of clear deep plum, resin, tar, and sweet grip on the satin-textured palate. Lovely acidity and deep-seated but fine tannin. Long, luxuriant finish of red plum fruit, balsam, and tarry earth. So fresh and deep, a great wine showing well. (94 pts.)
  • 2006 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Bonnes Mares - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru (12/19/2020)
    Decanted for 1 hour. Darker translucent ruby. Nose of fulsome but delicate violets, fine earth, iron granules, and black raspberry falling on the olfactories like a gentle, integrated wall. Layers of ethereal dark raspberry and blue plum on the satin-textured palate cut with molecular iron, noble earth, and briar. Beautiful acidity and fine tannin leading to a long finish of haunting red sweet berry laden with ferric notes and savory grip. Wonderful showing. A cut above even in adolescence. (94 pts.)

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