I just opened a bottle of 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin VV, poured it into the glass, and it smells like… cigarettes? If I didn’t check CT I’d think I was going crazy. Does anyone like this tarry flavor? Where is this “pure fruit” that people speak of with Bachelet?
In fairness, that’s true of most of 05s from almost all producers. I’ve had some good Bachelets, but none that have compelled me to buy any myself, especially for the price.
One of the greatest Burgundies I have ever tasted was a 1990 Bachelet. Since then I have been greeted by an impenetrable wall of structure with every bottle I have opened.
I drink a good bit of bachelet. I love the wines. I haven’t had the ‘09 gevrey recently but I’ve never gotten cigarettes from any of his wines. I had a very odd 2012 CdN villages earlier this year but it had been sitting in a store since release and I assumed that the storage had its ups and downs. I really like the gevrey VV - i actually it prefer to the 1er corbeaux most years and stopped buying the corbeaux as a result. The charmes that I’ve had in the last three or four years - ‘83 and ‘99 - have been fantastic. That being said, all the wines need a lot of time, the same amount of time really, from gevrey all the way to grand cru.
Setting aside the harsh reality of paying for burgundy these days I don’t consider the wines to be too expensive on a relative basis. The gevrey vv is a little less expensive then the Rousseau gevrey clos du chateau, and the bachelet is a better wine for me. The charmes price shot up kind of suddenly but it’s the best charmes and a buy for me.
A
Bachelet had some issues with their cooper in 2009, 2010 and 2011 that no one in the trade or press likes to talk about (perhaps I will render myself persona non grata by writing this, but I don’t think so). If you drink 2008s and 2012s, by contrast, you will be delighted.
I would say that the style has evolved in a more supple direction since around 2007. They extract a bit less. If one wanted to make analogies, one could say that they used to be a bit more like Roty in style (their friends and neighbors in one of their Charmes parcels, as well as in their CdN-Villages), and that today the style is a bit more giving and fruit-driven, while Roty remain a bit more old fashioned.
My first visit in Burgundy was to Bachelet. I will never forget it. Unless you have been there, many might not know how little wine he actually makes. It’s insanely small cellar and production.
In 2008 I traded Alan Weinberg 3 bottles of 2005 Rousseau CsJ for 3 bottles of 1999 Bachelet Charmes. I thought it was a good trade then and still a good trade today. Forget prices… 99 Bachelet Charmes is breathtaking.