TN: 2018 Francois Bertheau Chambolle Musigny

Figured I’d give this controversial wine a shot.

Certainly this was much darker and more concentrated than typical for this producer, even compared to the relatively generous 15 and 17 versions. Fruit was a bit darker than typical for Bertheau, and there was earthy aromas and some currants. I felt the fruit was still quite pure on the palate, with decent acidity, and the finish was nice. I enjoyed this, and we’ll see what the second half of the bottle is like tomorrow, but I can see where the critique comes from, because certainly this didn’t feel typical for Bertheau. I wouldn’t say it wasn’t typical of Chambolle, because other producers I frequent tend to produce a bit darker fruited, heavier wines. We’ll see how it ends up playing out but I do think this wine has quite a bit of potential, and may age better than people have postulated. I’m pretty glad I ended up picking up a mixed case.

This did get a bit better day 2

Thanks for the note. I picked up 2 bottles of the 2016 on CC. Any thoughts on that vintage?

What is the controversy around this wine? Is it just this wine or the whole lineup?

The 2016s are very nice. François picked very late in 2018 and 2019 (he has tended to decide on the harvest date the old fashioned way, at the time of flowering) and produced very ripe, high alcohol wines in both those vintages, with what appeared to me to be above-average levels of volatile acidity in 2018. In 2020, he made a course correction and was one of the very first to pick in Chambolle.

I assumed he was talking about the vintage? A pretty ripe one in general.

I tasted this and it was one of the wines that contributed to my decision to pass on most of my 2018 allocations.

Helpful information.

I pungoed a '17 chambolle premier cru this week, it drinks well. Definitely am not interested in seeing a deviation from this style. Love barthod.

I’m assuming this was a typo!

Hah! I’m not Mr. Lee, but I would add that I own a reasonable amount of Berthau, so it’s not a general stylistic disagreement.
If anything, I’d think Barthod would likely do better in 18 than some other producers

But can you pick them up again for 2019?

Bertheau isn’t hard to come by. What’s driving my decision is, in part, tariff pricing in the US; 2018 is very much not my type of vintage*, and I’ve been pretty clear with the retailers I generally buy from that it’s not them, it’s the vintage - I don’t want to buy wines I want to drink from anyone. I’ve been backfilling more since the 14, 16s and 17s are much better vintages that are still in the market at pre-tariff pricing. Seems silly not to.

As far as 2019s, as per William’s note, I expect I probably won’t buy Bertheau, but I suspect I might be a buyer again in 2020! Price depending, of course. I’m also approaching the age where I’m about to start buying less, since I’m now opening up Burgundy I’ve been “cellaring”, so decisions need to be made.

Whoops, I meant Bertheau!

Sending a +1 here. I am big on 2014 and 2017, and the 14s especially continue to be very well priced in the market.

Barthod did indeed do great in 2018!