TN: Jailbreak Wine Dinner - Krug 168, Ultramarine, MacDonald and etc.

JAILBREAK WINE DINNER - KRUG 168, ULTRAMARINE, MACDONALD AND ETC. - Jailbreak Brewery, Laurel, MD (10/8/2020)

Eight of us got together to drink a bunch of Napa reds. We were situated at the loading dock once again. The chef prepared a tasting menu that was perfectly executed.

Champagne
The Grande Dame rose showed exceptionally well. I was also impressed by the 168eme.

  • 2008 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Champagne Brut Rosé La Grande Dame - France, Champagne
    Very refined expressive nose displaying subtle red and yellow fruit, raspberry, pomegranate soda, light caramel, cooper, a hint of cedar, rose, perfume and oyster shell. Already showing beautifully integrated sophisticate palate, finely layered subtle pale red fruit, very fine generous mousse, precise and beautifully detailed, bright acidity, strong seashell mineral, and a seamless long pale red and yellow fruit driven finish with caramel and oyster shell at the end. This is a very polished pale Rose which reminds me the 08 Cristal version. Drinking beautifully and a great future ahead. (96 pts.)
  • 1990 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé - France, Champagne
    En magnum. Initially a hint of Madeira that blows off. Very vinous nose displaying sweet red fruit, strawberry jam, cherry compote, light caramel, rose, cooper, sweet spices, sous bois, grilled cep, and mineral. Fully integrated palate, nicely layered sweet red fruit, generous medium fine mousse, rich and deeply toned, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, and a long subtle sweet red fruit driven finish with grilled cep and cooper at the end. Perhaps slightly less fresh than the last magnum. Still very enjoyable. (94 pts.)
  • NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 168eme - France, Champagne
    Expressive nose displaying opulent ripe yellow fruit, golden delicious, lemon curd, apple pie, honey, brioche and limestone. Excellent concentration, layers upon layers of ripe yellow fruit, dense and rich yet pure and energetic, very fine generous mousse, bright acidity and mineral, and a long concentrated sweet yellow fruit driven finish with apple candy and brioche at the end. This clearly expresses the ripe concentrated fruit of the 12 vintage, but also retains precision and purity. Really impressive. Although youthful, drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)

Domestic Sparkler
The Ultramarine was almost identical to Champagne.

  • 2014 Ultramarine Blanc de Noirs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Expressive nose displaying generous red and yellow fruit, cherry soda, baked apple, apple peel, sweet spices, rainwater, brioche, oyster shell, sweet spices and mineral. Excellent concentration, nicely layered deeply toned red and yellow fruit, generous medium fine mousse, rich and dense, but also showing good balance and precision, medium acidity, strong mineral and a long ripe red and yellow fruit driven finish with oyster shell and rainwater at the end. Tasted blind, I would have guessed as Champagne, very complex and refined. Nevertheless, it is hard to justify the secondary market price. (94 pts.)
  • NV Rhys Ultra Brut Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley
    After hearing that the 15 Rhys Blancs de Blancs Bearwallow didn’t show well, Kevin Harvey generously sent the bottle to Greg. Expressive nose displaying delicious yellow fruit, granny smith, apple candy, bubble yum, lemon curd, honey and mineral. Very good concentration, nicely layered sweet yellow fruit, ripe yet clean, pure and refreshing, medium fine generous mousse, good acidity and mineral, and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish. I don’t find much resemblance to Champagne. It is delicious and correct. I think Greg and I like this more than the others. (91 pts.)

Chardonnay

  • 2012 Peter Michael Chardonnay Cuvée Indigene - USA, California, Sonoma County, Knights Valley
    Very ripe and alcoholic nose, pineapple, granny smith, crème brulee and sweet spices. Excellent concentration, packed dense deeply toned yellow fruit, very rich and a bit cloying, medium acidity, slightly lacking mineral, and a medium finish as alcohol clips the finish. AP mentions disjointed and hot and I agree. (89 pts.)
  • 2010 Marcassin Chardonnay Marcassin Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Fully integrated nose displaying ripe rich yellow fruit, yellow peach, pineapple, lemon curd, butterscotch and sweet spices. Not much mineral in the nose. Excellent concentration, dense slightly coiled yellow fruit, rich, round and extracted, medium acidity, low mineral and a medium to long dens yellow fruit driven finish with butterscotch at the end. At this stage, there is not much mineral expression which accentuates butterscotch/crème brulee. If you are a Chablis lover, don’t bother. No need to wait. (93 pts.)

Aubert
This was the second time having CIX estate and I really liked it once again.

  • 2013 Aubert Chardonnay CIX Estate Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Youthful clean nose displaying ripe white fruit, white peach, golden delicious, lemon curd, lanoline, spicy spices and limestone. Excellent concentration, nicely layered ripe white and yellow fruit, rich and ripe yet also clean and precise, medium acidity, strong limestone mineral, and a long ripe white and yellow fruit driven finish with a hint of limestone and spicy spices at the end. Although big and concentrated, this is a nicely balance and precise domestic Chardonnay. It appears that there has been a slight change in wine making style since 2013 at Aubert which I prefer. Drinking nicely. (96 pts.)
  • 2009 Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
    Light honey color and the nose and palate clearly reflect. Expressive mature nose displaying very ripe yellow fruit, peach, baked apple, oyster jus, honey, iron, vanilla, burnt sugar and oyster shell. Excellent concentration, packed concentrated yellow fruit, rich and oily, medium acidity, oyster shell mineral, and a medium long ripe yellow fruit driven finish with baked apple and oyster shell at the end. Although I find the oyster jus and oyster shell expression interesting, the fruit expression is a bit too mature and tired. (91 pts.)

Napa Red - Flight 1

  • 2002 Joseph Phelps Insignia - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Beautifully mature complex nose displaying ripe concentrated black and red fruit, crème de cassis, blueberry jam, cherry compote, coconut, lead pencil, mocha, caramel, burnt oak, vanilla, cedar, lead pencil, rose, sweet spices and scorched earth. Fully integrated palate, layers upon layers of ripe concentrated black and red fruit, rich, unctuous and opulent, perfect amount of acidity and scorched mineral, nicely integrated tannins and a long sweet black and red fruit driven finish with mocha and cedar at the end. IMO, Phelps Insignia is sweeter and the oak expression is richer/American oak compare to the Nap Cults like Harlan, Colgin and etc. It displays telltale signs of Insignia, drinking beautifully. (96 pts.)
  • 2007 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford
    Expressive nose displaying ripe cult Cabernet driven nose displaying crème de cassis, blackberry concentrate, a hint of green, cedar, vanilla, rose, lead pencil and limestone dust. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of perfectly ripe black fruit, opulent yet polished and precise, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, noticeable fine tannins, and a long concentrated black fruit driven finish. There is a singular expression of Cabernet with Cabernet floral dust. This is a very structured Cab. Drinking beautifully and impressively in a youthful way. (97 pts.)

Napa Red - Flight 2

  • 2012 Maybach Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Materium - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Expressive nose displaying ripe red and black fruit, cherry liqueur, crème de cassis, plum, licorice, ink, bitter chocolate and earth. Very good concentration, packed very ripe red and black fruit, silky and fluid, bright acidity, medium earthy mineral, fine tannins and a medium to long very ripe red and black fruit driven finish with ash and cedar at the end. Although the nose is very ripe and gives exceptionally concentrated impression, the palate seems to lack the richness and concentration in the middle, almost too much make up but slightly lack substance. My apologies in advance as I am aware that there are a lot of passionate followers of Maybach. For me, a great caricature of Napa Cult cab but not quite there. (94 pts.)
  • 2013 Myriad Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard ‘Elysian’ - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, blackberry liqueur, crème de cassis, cab dust, lead pencil, caramel, liquid smoke, dark spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of intense sweet black fruit, unctuous and opulent, yet also fresh, polished and precise, bright acidity and earthy mineral, noticeable but very fine tannins, and a long intense black fruit driven finish with licorice and Cabernet floral dust at the end. This impressive Cabernet has settled nicely. I like the classic black and blue fruit expression. This has the closet resemblance to the 07 Scarecrow. Drinking well in a youthful way but can easily improve for another decade or two. (97 pts.)

Napa Red - Flight 3
It was the first time trying MacDonald and I was truly impressed.

  • 2011 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Expressive nose displaying pure sweet black fruit, fresh blackberry, a hint of cassis, mocha, mint, caramel, sweet spices and mineral. Medium concentration, finely layered black and blue fruit, silky and polished, medium acidity and mineral, and a medium to long pure black fruit driven finish with mint and caramel at the end. The expression is similar to the 12 but it lacks the density and the middle palate is a bit hollow. It demonstrates great wine making in a challenging vintage. It is a delicious wine and someone even prefers to the 12. (95 pts.)
  • 2012 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Hedonistic nose displaying perfectly ripe pure black fruit, blackberry liqueur, crushed blackberry, black cherry, crème de cassis, ink, licorice, caramel, lead pencil, perfume, dark spices and Cabernet mineral dust. Perfectly harmonious palate, exquisitely layered pure black fruit, intense yet airy, weightless and sensual, beautifully detailed, perfect amount of acidity and mineral, incredibly fine tannins and a seamless long pure black fruit driven finish with perfume and licorice at the end. It displays perfect balance and precision. The elegant palate and impeccable balance remind me Screaming Eagle. Incredible joy, the best young Cab going back to the 94 Harlan. (100 pts.)

Napa Red - Flight 4
Both big monsters. I wondered how these will age.

  • 2008 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “Old Sparky” Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    Unbelievably intense nose displaying massive ripe red and black fruit, licorice dominates, cherry liqueur, crème de cassis, plum, ink, liquid smoke, tobacco, dark spices and earth. Exceptional concentration, layers upon layers of explosive black and red fruit, rich, unctuous and opulent, bright acidity, earthy mineral, noticeable fine tannins and a long intense red fruit driven finish with licorice and dark spices at the end. One of the most concentrated wine of my life. I wonder how the extremely ripe fruit expression will evolve with time. (97 pts.)
  • 2010 Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “Old Sparky” Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville
    This was a monster upon release and it hasn’t evolve a lot. Expressive nose displaying intense black fruit, crème de cassis, blackberry jam, licorice, ink, leather, cedar, dark spices, liquid smoke and earth. Incredibly concentrated, layers upon layers of intense black fruit, rich and unctuous, bright acidity, strong earthy mineral, very pronounced but fine tannins and a long intense black fruit driven finish with licorice and dark spices at the end. This seems to show more black fruit and a bit tighter compare to the 08 version. (96 pts.)

A great time was had by all! I left around 10:30 but the party was just starting!
Posted from CellarTracker

Great notes. That’s a lot of really good wines, congrats.

Really impressive wines and great notes. Thanks for sharing

Wow! The MacDonalds really showed well in that lineup. Fantastic.

I counted “perfect” used four times to describe the 2012 MacDonald. If ever there was a 100pt wine, that sounds like it’d be the one. Wow.

Sounds like a fantastic tasting, and great notes - thanks !

Were the MacDonalds decanted ahead of time, and if so, for how long ?

They were decanted two to three hours.

Wow! Amazing notes and wines! I just received my Myriad order yesterday, including 2 bottles of the Dr Crane you mentioned. This will be my debut experience and I’m lucky enough to get 4 Napa Cabs to hold me over while the others rest…can’t wait!

Thank you for posting Kevin. Get togethers like this take on special meaning.

Kevin:

Great detailed commentary. No American oak, only French oak for Insignia.

Best,

Craig

Had the 12 Maybach blind a few weeks ago. I felt like it was a prototype cult cab that was built to score big but also flat out fantastic wine. It was my wine of the flight in a flight with ‘10 Schrader GIII and ‘04 Harlan. I had it 96-97.

Craig,
I didn’t realize you made the wine. For my palate, Insignia is always rounder and sweeter than typical Napa cults.

I was corrected. It was decanted at noon for an hour the poured back after taking 2-3 ounces for sediments. By the time we drank, it had been double decanted for around 7 hours.

Kevin, thanks for the update ! Everything I’ve heard and read says the MacDonalds really benefit from what might appear to be lengthy decanting. That seems to be true even for these bottles, now with a few years of age on them.

I don’t drink much CA cab these days but I have to admit…this was a great lineup and MacDonald certainly has earned their lofty reputation…and price tag. Great notes Kevin.